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I have a 21 3500 with HO and the aisin, bout to turn over 100k, only issue ive had is the damn EGR cooler bit it at approx 65k. Dealer was useless in troubleshooting it, then took 5 days to replace, and then had an exhaust leak after the replacement. Other than that, shes been bulletproof, and...

Jam a wadded paper towel into the overflow hole on the bottom of the coolant bottle. Then, with the engine warmed up, run her down the road under load to at least 2500rpm. Check the paper towel, if its wet, you have foreign pressure in the coolant. Thats how my saga began. -j

its my 21.. traded the 16 awhile back.. my profile is correct (checked) the 21 just turned over 80k today, looked down and it said 80000.8 ironic.. -j

Update--- Had the EGR cooler changed out 3 weeks ago. Truck was spewing coolant out the overflow when I exceeded 1500rpm under load. Took it to the dealer, who had to order in a new cooler, that burnt 5 days. Then, took them 2 days to install. When they gave it back, there was a huge hissing...

welcome eh? nahhh.. I checked for leaks, and the dealer's guy checked. If it was that obvious, I wouldnt have posted. Put dye in the system, have a decent leak from the water pump shaft, and a small leak from the rad bottle. Got the parts on hand now, gonna change em out tomorrow, as well as a...

grabbed one offa ebay for 38bux.. tnx for the suggestion ozy, but amazon is the friggin devil. i wont go into detail on that one tho. thanks for the offer topzide Someone at the dealer must have felt guilty, a manager called me yday and wanted to setup a new appt time to diag the truck further...

thanks for the replies.. gonna talk to a friend at a local indie repair shop and see if i can borrow their pressure tester over the weekend. Cant see dropping 90bux on a tool that I may not use again for a long time.. but I havent ruled it out. another friend of mine works at the body shop of...

had a thought.. what if something is pressurizing the cooling system, possibly under heavy acceleration, and blowing coolant out the overflow? Gonna put a secondary bottle under the overflow outlet, see if it gets filled up. hmmm edit-- had my dashcam on while it was in service.. saw the guy...

I have a coolant leak somewhere in the engine area... Can smell coolant, but nothing on the ground, nothing obvious. Checked all hoses, water pump, rad, overflow bottle, no evidence from tailpipe... No dice. been getting low coolant messages every 2-3 days, have to add about a quart Took her...

Not a huge smell when I turn on the AC, its more of an issue that I use my truck for work, and I`m in and out of it alot. Going back and forth from ac to not ac makes yer body confused, and ya sweat like a pig. No bueno. Ambient temp while on highway at 60mph is like 80F max so far this year...

Running down the highway, 60+mph, a/c off, fan on high. I get hot air from the vents, as if the heater core is active. The temperature knob is set all the way to blue, still hot. Is there an inline solenoid that stops coolant flow to the heater core when heat is not wanted? If not, can I add...

possible clogged filter? when was the last service done? and you are checking the transmission dipstick, not the transfer case...? in neutral, on a level surface

i usually hold the pedal with my left hand and start with right, as i let the truck warm up in the morning before i get in. unfortunately I dont have remote start.. I`ll try the pedal trick, thanks

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yep this isnt an issue, i`m aware of the double tap. i`m ok with waiting. just havent found a proper way to cold start -with- the grid heaters, and not have to hit the brake+button again at the end of the grid cycle. maybe its not possible. the immediate start when cold is concerning tho, will...

Got my new 3500 SRW back in june, running great... Now that its cold, I`m having some issues with the push to start stuff, had a 16 prior (with a key) that was easy and predictable for the grid heaters. Sometimes when I hold the brake pedal and hit the button once, the grid heaters will fire...

Does it do it under acceleration, mainly right off a stop? If so, thats normal in my experience. If it does it at idle, could be a fuel issue? jus guessin good luck -j

yes it does have the self bleeder, on the bottle right next to the connection to the rad. How tough is the cooler to change? looks like theres 'hot' bolts that could be tough to get out.. hmm

the dick mention was for suggesting the 4th gens have a rad cap, when the cap is on the overflow bottle, not for the tiewrap on the hose. if the joint at the hose was leaking, it would have to be a gusher to use a quart every 200mi

Jim- not to be a d1ck but have you looked in the engine bay of a 4th gen at all? might be a good idea. also- attempting to plug off the pressure overflow of the rad is a very bad thing to do, and could cause a violent failure of the cooling system. luckily your pic shows a tiewrap on the barb...