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I re-use the old rod if in good shape since it is mated to the cam lobe, similar to lifters mating to cam lobes. I usually pot a dab of moly cam lube on it as extra insurance.

I chose and installed the City Diesel actuator--see Issues 114 and 115.

I had excellent results with Torco RTF

mcMaster has grade 10.9 in 220 mm, and use a washer under it McMaster-Carr they also have grade 12.9 allen head McMaster-Carr

I am still happy with my 2013 HO (only 385 HP and 850 ft lb back then!). The best I can hope for out of a new truck is that it is as good as my 2013 has been.

2016-up have the DEF quality sensor in the tank, which would require replacing the whole tank if it is bad.

I never got my drag link welded. After the new style drag link became available, my dealer installed it.

The heater tube leak explains the loss of coolant, independent of any head gasket issue. What surface finish did the shop put on the head? If not smooth enough, you will have a head gasket failure in your future.

I am still waiting to be convinced that I should update my 2013 with iron block, solid lifters, and Aisin transmission.

I buy all my Turbo Diesel filters from Geno's.

There were about a dozen recalls on my 2013, but it has been reliable and capable. I am waiting for something clearly better before I become a beta tester for whatever Stellantis offers.

For comparison of delivery timing, Ram used the old emission system through the calendar year of 2012 whereas they usually changed the model year on July 1. They had problems with the front frame crossmember and the new engine cover so no one saw 2013s until April or May of 2013. Then they...

I am in agreement with sag2. Beware the mechanic trying to pull you into spending a lot of money when the process isn't even likely to fix your problem. A "just beginning" head gasket issue that doesn't even result in noticeable loss of coolant is not going to cause high running coolant...

One simple thing to check is the external condition of the radiator on the inlet side especially. It could be partially plugged with bugs, dirt, etc. As noted above, a cheap aftermarket thermostat could be at fault also.

The dipstick has a magnetic tip and it picked up some powdered iron from wear. If concerned, open the drain plug, inspect that magnet to see if it picked up a lot of iron. New fluid can't hurt anyway, even if you don't see a reason to remove the cover.

The topic has been covered exhaustively in past issues of the TDR magazine, such as 94, 97, 98, 112.

I found Torco RTF to be very good--no black sludge, and keeps the trans cool like the Syntorq was chosen for.

While you are at it, replace the small lamp on the 1" hose to steel pipe with a worm drive clamp so it is easier to r&r when changing the oil filter from the top.

I like the Falken AT3W on my Jeep. On the Ram 3500, I liked Bridgestone highway treads for highway and fuel mileage the best, but went to Kumho AT52 to get the advantages of all-terrain and mountain/snowflake ratings.

I ran my wire from the stud on the grid heater since it is a shorter run to the clutch hole in the firewall, same result electrically. I mounted the light in an aftermarket gauge pod on the dash.