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Also check the high center brake light; their gaskets are known to fail. But this water is less likely to affect the seat latches.

You don't have *just* taillights? I suspect you have *no* running lights, front or rear. It took 25-odd years for my '98 switch to finally fail, due to a manufacturing defect. The spade on the switch that connects to the running lights was a little burnt, indicating heat/resistance/corrosion...

Also considering peak torque is at 1200 RPM, I suspect it's more of a replacement for the 8.3.

When I installed the 19.5" TY303s, I originally used an Abbott and later switched to a TruSpeed to adjust the speedo. Both of them sit between the VSS in the rear and the CAB (Controller, Antilock Brake) under the hood; adjusting the frequency of the differential signal the VSS produces...

Very small nit to pick. '98 and later; my '98 12V uses the rear diff sensor.

Hmmm. Wouldn't he want the opposite: a demolition blade? LOL! I kill me!

It *can* be done, though maybe not pretty. Redneck solution: strap a 3kW generator in the bed. Strap a 3kW 120VAC heater (with built-in high-ish velocity fan) in the cab where it'll do the most good (or anywhere it'll fit and run ducts to direct heat to windshield and floor). Run an armored...

My '98 (2500, 12V, 4WD, club cab, long bed, auto, ordered 8/97, delivered 10/97, 355k miles, ATS tripleloc TC and VB, 3k GSK, 215HP injectors) is finally reaching the end of its golden years after driving it 27 years. (I think the clutches in the rear diff are disintegrating, and body cancer is...

Second. If everything else (including the steering shaft) seems tight, then it's almost definitely the suspension bushings, especially if they have over 100k miles on them. A crowbar applied to them won't show anything unless you can apply (almost literally) a ton of force on them.

It would be useful if we could search our own content. There are things I posted way back (close to the beginning of TDR), but darned if I can find it. Be nice to search for keywords, phrases, and even limited time spans. Of course, I could be blind and just not seeing it.

General thoughts to trigger troubleshooting neurons: Dumb question: did you measure with the main breaker turned off of meter pulled (to isolate the house from the service)? If there really is a difference between the two legs, that's the first thing to get the power company to fix. IMO, 128 is...

FWIW, the few times my boost has dropped, I've found I'm overdue for a fuel filter change. The truck would change from one that authoritatively powers up a steep-ish grade to a Rolls-Kinardly.

I've had a TruSpeed on my '98 for pert near 20 years. When I had the 19.5s on the truck, the odo matched the yardsticks over a 100 mile span. Nary a problem other than it cycling the speedo to max and back when the key is turned on (or engine started). Now that I think of it, I've never looked...

Dad once ordered grits at a restaurant in Georgia. Waitress looked at him and asked, "You mean Georgia caviar?"

Udder nonsense.

It's not so much a big job as it is time-consuming. You might need to remove/loosen the shocks, then lower the axle to remove all spring tension. (I don't know if the axle will be stable with the springs pushing the shock to full extension; so I'd loosen the shocks to avoid that possibility...

Did you replace the front suspension bushings (on the trailing links)? They're only good for 100k miles at most. Vigorous prying with a 6' crowbar won't show anything; I don't think a static test would show any wear anyway. Attach a video camera (GoPro?) under the truck aimed at the trailing...

"Scotch 27 Glass Cloth Electrical Tape" might work. It operates at Class B 130°C (266°F). It has thermosetting pressure-sensitive adhesive. I used it to fix a commercial 240VAC electric table-top fryer. When I opened it, the wires and connections were so bad I was surprised it hadn't gone up in...

150,000 miles? Replace the front suspension bushings; they're usually done at 90k. Worn bushings contribute a lot to steering wander. When I had mine replaced at 190k, I had to relearn how to steer. Also, check the steering gear mounting position on the frame for cracks. And verify that the...

When my '98 gave me good mileage, I often drove up to 600 miles non-stop. These days, the truck's down to maybe 500 miles full to empty. (Excluding toll booths, stop signs, traffic lights and traffic jams, that is.) Hmmm. I could probably still reach 600 if I kept it under 65, but that adds a...