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I was just alerted to this old post and I reread what I wrote on post #17. My saw is a Stihl 048, NOT a 028. I cut about 7-8 cords a year and this saw is still going strong.

Shelby, look at this: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/mild-surging.258960/#post-2514225

Beard, check this out. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/mild-surging.258960/#post-2514225

Billy, check post #6 on this thread. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/mild-surging.258960/#post-2514225

If you try to put it in with the bell housing on the transmission it seems to go better. I've done it both ways on the ground and bell housing and transmission bolted together works best. Once you bolt on the pressure plate with line up tool, take your fingers and feel the edge of the pressure...

Sounds like you have some old cracked rubber fuel lines around the engine that will have to be replaced. Look for damp spots on the hoses themselves. You may get lucky and find the leaker easily.

JKellis, look at this old post about your problem. It speaks for itself. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ecm-lift-pump-relay-install.250467/#post-2420249

Bad lobe for fuel pump on camshaft? Not getting full lift stroke?

I would look at a mechanical issue with the accelerator cable. Did you have to disconnect it when you worked on the PS pump? Maybe didn't fully seat cable housing in bracket? Put a meter on it capable of reading the percentage throttle opening and run the scenario again and see if throttle...

Doug, I had this same thing happen to me. I checked all that was mentioned and found nothing out of place. Tried several times to fix it and no success. I found it by accident working on the valve cover. The main wiring harness on the firewall had dropped down on the valve cover after coming...

I would check the connector on the fuel solenoid on the P7100. There are 3 wires, 1 for pull in, another for holding the plunger and a ground wire. the hold wire or ground could be loose or corroded.

Look at this old link. There is a LOT of info on this problem and cure. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/ecm-lift-pump-relay-install.250467/#post-2420249

There are a lot of things that were left off my truck. No blanket for under hood, no grab handle for drivers side A pillar, and no rear liner? forward of the wheel for keeping mud from splashing all over the rear underneath. Seems like there are a couple more things too.

2001. My truck is a 2002 and has standard open diff like the later ones.

Doug, your post caught my eye. I'm in Chocowinity, 20 miles from Greenville. Here's a thread from a while back that should help you with the fuel pump problem. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/252069-Electrical-Problem-on-1999-2500-that-mechanic-can-t-diagnose

Well, that brings up another question. I have never figured out how and why my A/C cycles on and off even in cold weather. I've read in the past that the ECM is programmed to cycle the compressor from time to time to keep things free and oiled. I know my truck will randomly leak condensate out...

Do you suppose that there are leaves or insulation in front of the heater core that is restricting air flow across the core fins?

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/258960-Mild-Surging?p=2514225#post2514225. See post #6

Icman95, I can only tell you what worked for me. My manual truck was surging when I tried to use the cruise control, ( electronic on 2002) and it was bad enough that it felt like it might damage the drive train. I searched the forum and started looking at my grounds. What I found was corrosion...

Photowrite, does your truck give you automatic throttle increase when you get below 850-875 RPMs? If I forget to down shift or push in the clutch at a turn or stop, my truck will speed up automatically to stay at 850 RPMs. It will scare you if you're not used to a manual Cummins. I was wondering...