0-60 PSI Fuel Gauge

[SLang]

All that is avialable right now are 0-15 PSI and 0-100PSI mechanical and electrical fuel gauges. The P-pump 12 valvers make 20 PSI at idle and 36 PSI at 200 RPM. It's ovious that a 0-15 is not real useful and the 0-100 will not be accurate for our range.



I called autometer for a custom solution. I run Z-series model 2616 Boost and 2654 Pyro. I was looking for a 0-50 PSI or 0-60 PSI to get the job done. The guys solution was an isolator and a mechanical boost gauge. He said if I wanted the gauge to read "Fuel Pressure" that he could get a silk screen made for a one time $150 development fee. So my first thought was that will work. Let's find a backer. That is why I can here. If enough people are interested, can we get a corp. like Geno's Garage, DTT, Jenetty Racing, or any one else in this group to pay for the silk screen and then dispurse the bill over time by selling the gauges.



Here are the item and cast:



Isolator part # 5282, Summit Price $89. 39

Gauge equiv. # 2617, Summit Price $43. 39



That around $135 for a good setup. If we can find someone to finance the silk screen



EDIT had to get rid of HTML code. Slowed the page to much

 

[RobG]

Why not use an SPA digital guage instead? That way you get total accuracy.



I prefer analog guages for boost and EGT (though I still have SPAs in those roles), but for temp and fuel pressure, I really like the digital readouts.



Plus, you can get a Pressure/Pressure guage (since they're all dual readouts) and have a pre- and post-filter reading. Or get the Pressure/Oil Temp guage like I have, and have fuel pressure on the top and engine oil temp on the bottom.



Rob

 

[SLang]

The pyro is the only electrical gauge I want. And that has to be electric is the only reason.



As for the electrical let's start with digital. A digital gauge in general is less accurate than a analog. It takes the analog and samples it at some rate. If a spike or dip happens between samples, it's lost. Seen to many industrial people make this mistake. On a digital, the signal is constant. Put an analog on and it's apperant. On top of this watch the dash in a caddy or licoln. When you stop at a light you may still be going 2-3 MPH even though your not moving. To slow for me.



Now for analog. I would buy an analog gauge if one was in our 0-60 PSI range. But the fact is they are ~$170 for a 0-100 PSI. At idle we are around 20 PSI or 1/5th the scale of the gauge. Not real accurate considering these gauges were actually built for FI cars that run 50-70 PSI.



After looking at it, a 0-35 PSI might be better. Every thing would cost the same and how often are you above 30 PSI in normal driving? No really I have no clue. How often?



This gives a fairly accurate gauge for a small cost in my opinion.

 

[SlyBones]

If you do not care that it says "fuel pressure" on it, places like grainger carry 0-60psi, liquid filled, pressure gauges, with 1/8" fittings for $8. 00 bucks. You can get an adapter for the 12v from TST for $25, and an $8 buck boost gauge install kit. Kit contains all fittings, tubing, etc. necessary.



Works fine and was within a couple psi of that real fancy unit Piers has. I did not permenately mount it. Its a tool box item. Can easily check any time I want. And good enough to tell me if I have a problem, or not.



Anyways I guess I am not really sure why I need to monitor this all the time while driving. Seems like drop it in every 5000 mi or when you change the oil/filter should be good enough. -- I put this right in there with checking fluid levels, lubes, filters and other periodic maintenance items.

 

[SLang]

Slybone, your right in all aspects... but I use to drive truck and always watched my fuel gauge to see how much of the engine I'm using. It is a great diagnostics tool. If you call the expert like Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh (I can not say enough good thing about these guys) the first 3 questions will be when )insert problem( happens, what is your boost, EGT, and fuel PSI. With this they can tell the probelm with 90+% accuracy. If I could have a accurate fuel gauge for around $130 with out being in danger of fuel in the cab I would love to have one. Just seeing if anyone else out there agrees.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Currently looking

I am currently looking at gauges for my new truck and have read most of the posts on the subject. I want gauges that match the stock Dodge gauges as close as possible. I have decided on boost, pyro, and fuel pressure. I want the night lighting to be as good and equal as possible. Yes, I want it all. I know some members like VDO, others Westach, Isspro, Autometer, SPA. I like the idea of not have fuel at pressure in the cab. I agree that the fuel pressure gauge should be at least 40 psi. I like analog over digital because they are easier to glance at while driving. I would rather not mix gauges, so I want all the same brand. Will Autometer fill the bill if we can get a backer for the screening or can we go into a group buy? Or does any know if VDO,Westach, Isspro, SPA have what I want? I have already order and received the pillar mount. I am just decieding on which gauges.



I know this subject has been done to death, but any advise would be appreciate. I would like to move on to Ebrakes and more questions.



I only have a little over 1200 mi on my truck and boy do I love it.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

cap-n-cray - since your truck is a 24v you don't need anywhere near a 40 psi gauge. If your lift pump system is stock you will NEVER see over 16 psi. With a pusher pump added to my truck I'm now hitting ~20 psi and I used resistors to put my 0-16 gauge back on scale (it reads 4 psi low on the top end). Autometer already has a 0-16 (I think it's 0-16 anyways) on the shelf right now.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Steve, What if I do some BOMBing later? I was trying to take in future mods. I am new to diesels, althought I thought of putting a diesel in my Blazer back in 1974 after the gas prices went up. I even have a book on converting your vehicle to a diesel engine. I did look at a Perkins engine.

 

[illflem]

I used a $8 40 psi liquid filled stainless steel gauge , a $19 needle valve as a restrictor, both from Granger and a $5 mechanical oil pressure gauge tubing kit from any auto parts store. Tapped a 1/8" pipe thread port into the injection pump banjo bolt, needle valve installs first. Works just fine for me and the price is right. If you have any faith at all in your plumbing abilities there will be no leaks. If there are you can just close the needle valve to stop it long before even a spoonful of diesel leaks in your cab. Tried electrical gauges, senders kept on failing even when restricted and isolated.