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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 01 caster adjustment

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Radiator for a 99'

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In the most recent issue of TDR magazine there is a blurb in the Member 2 Member column from John Holmes. He adjusted a 2nd gen front end for 5deg caster instead of the 2. 74 +/- 1deg. Results were quite favorable for reducing the wander. John, any long term results on this experiment? Has anybody else tried this? Has anybody tried setting at the 3. 74deg max that Dodge publishes and see if it helps while staying in factory specs.

I've installed a Lukes Link and am looking at the DSS but I still think its BS that we need to go to the aftermarket to get rid of this wandering.



Phil
 
We have been setting the caster between 3. 5 -5 degrees for a couple of years and have not seen any long term problems on the trucks we service regularly. The balljoints on the 2000 on up BR/BE trucks have been holding up better than the previous ones. The only problem we have is sometimes trying to get the bolts to move to get the most adjustment due to being in the salt belt. We also set toe in to . 20 degrees as per the service bulletin. The trucks drive much better afterwards.
 
Phil



Most of the 94-97's are incapable of cranking the eccentrics enough to get 2 deg. of caster. Simply not enough adjustment. The later trucks like yours have a different eccentric and usually you can get 3-4 degrees (or more) which helps alot.



The earlier trucks respond well to an adjustable upper ball joint eccentric/sleeve to allow for enough caster.



Both Solid Steel products are excellent. They have the DSS and the new Track bar retrofit kit. They are worth twice what they charge. Russell and Darin are great guys.



Good luck

Andy
 
I used the specs from this post over at dodgeram.org and it has worked very well for my truck



First of all let me say this: Damn all of you nice people for

wanting me to stay with aadt :)

Anyway, I'm not much for having a good short term memory, so bear

with me.

In a previous posting written by ???? (don't remember), they were

complaining about a shimmy in their Ram 4x4 after striking bumps in the

road.

I suggested that the front end alignment has either too little or

too much caster, thus causing a caster shimmy. He did not like my

response and changed his concern from a "shimmy" to a "bounce" (big

difference), and insisted it was the shocks. Maybe it is, I haven't

driven it. He also said the alignment "checked out". Here's the

problem:

Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide

acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range

is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).

The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)

tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they

were in this broad range of acceptance.

Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to

caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some

30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"

training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees

to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates

caster shimmy.

Below I will post what specifications I set Ram trucks to. First

I want to give a little more info on correct Ram alignments so you can

see if you had a job well done,

The eccentrics on the lower control arms ARE NOT for individual

wheel caster adjustments (even though our alignment machine says they

are). The eccentric sleeves in the upper ball joints are for adjusting

individual camber and total cross caster (difference in caster between

two front wheels). This is why replacement eccentrics are positionable

in eight different ways.

Once camber and cross caster are attained with the eccentrics, the

lower control arm eccentrics are then used to swing the caster readings

into specifications. The two eccentrics must be swung in the SAME

direction in EQUAL amounts. If they are not, it will create a setback

condition (one front wheel further forward than the other).

FYI - Comparing between the two front wheels, caster will cause a

pull to the smaller value and camber will cause a pull to the larger

value. A truck set up with caster pulling in one direction and camber

pulling in the other direction, can lead to a wandering truck; even

though it is "in specifications"!!!!!!

If the eccentrics on the lower control arms of your truck are not

pointing the same direction, the alignment was done incorrectly and the

axle was "twisted" or "forced" into position to attain the acceptable

values (seen them from the factory this way, go figure).

A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative

cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right

hand road crown. Camber will be equal side to side slightly on the

negative side. This will help maintain acceptable camber when hauling

heavy loads, as the truck tends to lift in the front when towing.

Camber will then fall slightly positive when towing.

Just because the alignment shop says "it's in specifications", that

does not mean it is set up for proper performance and handling!!!!!!!!!



Specifications (my personal settings for every Ram I align): all specs

below are in degrees.





Left Wheel Right Wheel

-------------- ----------------



Caster 3. 2 3. 5

Cross Caster -. 3



Camber -. 10 -. 10

Cross Camber 0. 0



Toe - standard specs, (maybe a little out if you tow a lot, they will

pull in as the front end lifts up).



Brent

ASE Certified

Gold Certified Chrysler tech





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Great post.



but... ... ... .



I will never have different settings on CASTER. There are just to many variables in road construction.



"... A correct alignment will set the truck up with a slight negative

cross caster (truck has slight pull to left) to compensate for right

hand road crown... . "
 
DCTECH, BarryG,



Thanks for the info. I will be printing this out for future reference. Now I need to find a real alignment shop. Is it a sign of old age when you just don't believe the kid at the tire shop has enough real world experiance to do something that requires thinking?



Phil
 
I read your spec for front end work does this apply to a 1998 25oo 4x4 12valve? Also what you recommend for replacement rear shoes, going with the expensive dodge. i tow a 5th wheel and weigh about 19000 lbs
 
Yes these specs will work well.



Good Rabestos/Napa or Wagner lining will work well in the rear. The EGR lining is good stuff too. You might consider the TSB for dis-abling the load sensor/proportioning valve on the rear of the truck. You may experience rear wheel lockup w/out the trailer attached or a load in the bed. .



You might also consider upgrading the the 3500 rear wheel cylinders 1 1/16" vs 7/8".



Good luck

Andy
 
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