2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '01 Fuel Tank Strap broke

[TboneMan]

So I look under my truck yesterday and I notice a puddle of fuel. Upon closer inspection, I notice the fuel tank (completely full BTW) is leaning toward the rear of the truck at about a 25 deg. angle.



"This isn't good", I said to myself (at least that the "G" rated version of what I said.



Anyway, the rear tank strap broke in half due to rust (sucks living in the snowbelt of NYS).



I've done a search on this forum and only see references ( and very detailed instructions) about replacing the straps and bolts for first generation trucks.



My biggest fear is that I can't get the nuts off the bolts due to rust.



Notes on the 1st Gen trucks indicate the front bolt can not be replaced without removing the bed of the truck.



Is that true for the 2nd Gen. trucks (quad cab with 8' bed)?



I PB-Blaster'd the bolts yesterday after the discovery, and I'll hit them again tonight. I won't have time to work on the truck until tomorrow (picking up parts today though).



So, any suggestions specific to '01's?

 

[B.G. Smith]

Not much help here. I do have a 99 FSM and it indicates that the tank can be removed/lowered without disturbing the bed. It also indicates you can drain the tank if you choose after it is lowered a little through the tank vent fitting. You will have to disconnect the filler hose and vent hose at the top end before lowering tank. Looks like the dead end of straps fit into a "T" slot in the frame. The manual does not mention replacement of straps, just tank removal. bg

 

[TboneMan]

B. G. , that's what I'm finding too. Straight forward instructions about dropping the tank. Of course automobile engineers NEVER take into consideration that things RUST! One day, those bolts WILL need replacing.

 

[Mishkaya]

I replaced my tank straps as a precaution when I dropped the fuel tank some time ago. The straps are simply in a slot in the frame rail as I recall. As long as you are willing to drop the tank and replace both straps at the same time (which would make sense), it doesn't really matter whether the bolts break when you try to remove them, as the new straps have their own bolts.
Hope this helps.

 

[TboneMan]

I replaced my tank straps as a precaution when I dropped the fuel tank some time ago. The straps are simply in a slot in the frame rail as I recall. As long as you are willing to drop the tank and replace both straps at the same time (which would make sense), it doesn't really matter whether the bolts break when you try to remove them, as the new straps have their own bolts.

Hope this helps.

So the front bolt is removable/replaceable on an '01? That doesn't appear to be the case on 1st Gen's. , that's why I'm in a bit of a panic.

 

[TboneMan]

Well the good news is that the nut spin freely. I haven't done the job yet, but I went ahead and broke the nuts loose to check whether or not I needed a "plan B".



The bad news for 2nd Gen's, the answer is NO. At least I do not see a way of getting a new bolt between the bottom of the cab and the top of the cross member. That distance is the thickness of my index finger. I don't see how in that space one would be able to position a new bolt over the hole and flip it 90 degs and have it fall through the hole.

 

[Mishkaya]

I had to go and look since it's been a while since I messed with that, and you are correct, the bolt is not meant to be replaced. I am glad it came loose for you OK...

 

[Sticks]

Anti-seize and maybe a ritual of PB every time you crawl under your truck, so you won't have this problem in another 15 years.

Glad you got it taken care of.

 

[TboneMan]

The job is done. Took about an hour and a half. Lots of wrenching. The nut needed an 18' breaker bar all the way down.

 

[Sticks]

Impact wrenches are your friend.

 

[TboneMan]

Impact wrenches are your friend.

I didn't want to risk messing the bolt up. As it was the nut were almost too hot to handle when I got them off. Better safe then sorry.

 

[mwilson]

I didn't want to risk messing the bolt up. As it was the nut were almost too hot to handle when I got them off. Better safe then sorry.

You have a greater chance of the rust piling up in the threads and snapping off the bolt doing it with a hand wrench or breaker bar.



The air gun will rattle the rust from the threads and spin the nut off with far less chance of damage.



Learned my lesson on that years ago up here in corrosion county, USA.





Mike.

 

[Sticks]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This

I've got 8 years behind the gun. If the impact mars the threads, you were screwed from the go, even doing it by hand.

If the impact starts to stall, revers and tighten back up, and go back and forth on the bolt, lubing as you go.