Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 02 Stalling on #1 and Heater Grid ON?

[pcarlson]

Ok fella's need some advice.



Since day one this truck will stall if you put the auto in gear while the grid heater is working and the fuel is #1 Diesel. Won't do it on #2 Fuel.



This usually does not matter if the engine is cold or hot just that the grid heater is on and the temp is cold enough for #1 Fuel to be in use. I either have to press on the throttle and shift or wait till the grid heater goes out. Not to practical if I just shut it off 10 minutes ago.



I know Dodge didn't do anything for me last winter and I know that I will have the same problem once #1 comes back. The only flash I have had is the 18-014 High idle/3 cylinder.



I do run Power Source or Stanadyne each tank in the winter.



Anyone have any ideas? Had this problem/what was the fix?

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

You're running #1 fuel ALREADY?? OK I see your in Alaska but it's only mid-September. . . how cold is it up there? It's still summer in Eastern Washington, mid 90s right now and we're headed out for some water skiing this afternoon. The Snake River's pretty nice right now, low 70s water temp





Vaughn

 

[BV]

Better read your Owners manual

You might want to read you owners manual - They have really cut back the temps on when you can run straight #1 if you can use any at all.



Your injector pump needs the lubrication that is missing from #2 so be careful.

 

[pcarlson]

I am not using #1 yet but by October it should be here. But I had this problem all last winter on #1 and then it went away with #2. I do not have the cause or the fix for this. I know it will resurface again this winter and I'd like to be able to fix it if I can.



Owners manual breaks down fuel by temperature ranges and up here it gets cold enough to run #1 and not the winterized #2.



Temps here are low 50's and low 40's at night but I had frost the other day and the termination dust showed up yesterday on the mountains.

 

[pcarlson]

I just extracted PCU code 0500 and ECU code 1693! Any help?

 

[HTRDHLR]

"No VSS Signal" Whatever that means? Maybe vehicle speed sensor? I dont know but here is the website

http://www.batauto.com/chrysler/99-01trk.html

 

[Fast 1]

Since it's an 2002 of course its eletronic and not mechanical like the 12 valvers so when the grid heaters are cycling, the amps are lower and when it's in gear the rpm is lower so the amperage is even lower. Maybe the amps are low enough to cut out enough to kill it. Maybe with #2 everthing is a little warmer and the idle is slighlty better. Maybe somebody could add to this idea? Just my . 02. Check the alternator output and the batteries or just replace them. I would opt for new batteries.



Why are you putting it in gear before the grid heaters finish or even starting the truck before they finish cycling or am I missing something?



Verlyn

 

[pcarlson]

Fast,



Voltage and amps check fine.



"Why are you putting it in gear before the grid heaters finish or even starting the truck before they finish cycling or am I missing something?"



If I just drove it 40 miles and run into a store for 30 minutes the engine is still warm so I should not need to wait for the grid heaters to complete their cycle on a warm engine. When the truck is cold the I wait till the heaters finish.



Ever go through a drive-thru (winter temps 20 degrees and lower) and they can't hear you over the CTD? So you shut it off make your order and start it up again and now you can't move or it will stall because the grid heaters are on? So you only shift to move ahead with your foot on the throttle!!



Do all you live in baby climates??

 

[B.G. Smith]

Stalling

Could it be just too low rpm at idle, mine idles about 800 rpm in neutral. Could also be the electrical draw as stated above, the heater draws a high amp load, might be pulling the batt. so low that the fuel solenoid drops out. Try checking the batt. voltage with the heater on and idling. I can't imagine just putting in drive killing the CTD as I saw one with the clutch slave cyl. out trying to get out of a tight parking place and he had his brakes on idling, the front wheels were locked up and the rear wheels were spinning in the dirt. bg

 

[Fast 1]

Ya your right, I hardly ever wait to start, expect when it's cold and I haven't started it recently. I guess if it killed on me because I wasn't waiting I would want to know whats wrong also.



About the only way the truck will stall is if the fuel solenoid closes

because of no voltage to it, or the fuel solenoid or relay is just weak and closes with a slightest change in amperage.



I would check out the solenoid or relay.



Verlyn

 

[pcarlson]

Follow-Up

I know it has been awhile for this topic but I took the truck in today again for the stalling when the grid heaters are on and only when the truck is on #1 fuel.



I thought I would ask for another reflash to see if that would cure the problem. They looked elsewhere.



They tested the lift pump. Ok



Hot tested the injection pump. FAILED



Replaced the injection pump at 13,500 mi. Seems I probably could have used this last year but didn't take it back till now. Engine doesn't even move now when the heaters cycle nor does it care if you put it gear when they are on.



Judging by the EGT's more fuel is going in as it runs a little warmer by about 100 degrees than before. Also different sound at idle and down the road.

 

[ihegdal]

"Hot tested the injection pump. FAILED "



What does a injection pump "hot test" consist of?

 

[JR2]

Don't get too exicted, my truck stalls when running on the crappy blend we get in Anchorage. Has to do with the tight transmission and after market injectors. I know another AK guy that got a new injection pump and that did not help his stalling problem. If you still have the problem, try tsb 18-00-015A, that is what fixxed mine.



After thinking about it, my stalling had nothing to do with the grid heaters, so maybe your problem was different... . won't be when you get some injectors though





Which dealer did the work??

 

[pcarlson]

JR,



Anchorage Chrysler did the work. I talked with Roy and he new it stalled last year "stock" and still does it now with the new transmission and the EZ.



I initially went and asked Roy about flashing in the 18-015-00 Rev A as it fixed your problem but I already had 18-014-01 which is performance for #1 fuel. There were no codes in the computer and I do not know what a "Hot Box Test" is for the pump. The test isn't covered in the service manual.



But I tried starting it up cold and waiting 30 seconds and put it in gear and it doesn't even notice it now. It also doesn't even move the idle much at all when the heater grid cycles.



The 275's are on there way and can't wait to put them in.

 

[John Berger]

Do you add fuel treatment during the winter? If the #1 fuel didn't lubricate your pump, you may just be headed for the same problem. Then again, you just might have got a crappy pump from the factory. That's good of the dealer to remember you had the same problem when the truck was stock. It would only seem to make sense, regardless of the EZ, but some service managers will do anything not to warranty a vehicle. Sounds like you got a good one at this dealership.

 

[pcarlson]

I would agree with you in that we have a good service manager up here. The EZ is what he recommended!!



I run Power Service in every tank in the winter and add more than required by the bottle. I have ran this since it was new. I think the pump was just a bad one from the get go.



Funny thing is my wife gave me this funny grin and said that she was glad I didn't get the chip that would have voided the pump warranty when Roy told us how much that pump would have cost if we had gone that route. Ouch!!