Here I am

'03 Clutch gone at 22k miles!!!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Is it true that the 600 will have a Catalytic

Mag-Hytec Transmission Pans

Status
Not open for further replies.
Clutch failed today in wife's '03 3500 at 22k miles. Dealer is telling her that clutch is only warranteed for 12k miles and that, without looking, she is probably in for a $2000 repair bill!!!



I can't believe it failed without some other cause - leaking main seal or something - she babys this truck.



Anyone with experience on this? Help - need ideas on this.



FWIW, dealer is Christopher's Dodge World in Golden, CO.



Thanks in advance,

Jim
 
Ask to see the clutch, flywheel ,throwout bearing and pressure plate. 22K is uncommon on a stock truck. See what failed, or make them explain the failure to you.



Does she ride the clutch with her foot?



Also, you could put a lot better clutch in for $2K.
 
I might be wrong but I thought I read in the owners manual in the warranty section that the clutch is never covered. I would definitely upgrade the clutch while it was out. Sorry to hear about that. Mine has 45000 hard EZ miles and still holding.
 
Thanks, Fred. I do plan to ask for the parts but obviously I 'm starting from a very uninformed vantage point about how the warrantee works.



No, she doesn't ride the clutch - I know that for a fact. I know it because she drives whenever we go somewhere in her truck and I watch her like a hawk.



I really hope it doesn't go this way, but if we have to spring for a clutch, what do you guys recommend product wise and for local Denver-area installers?
 
If you are ever planning on pulling many trailers or bombing your truck I would use a Southbend. As far as Colorado installers I don't have a clue. Maybe you can find a local dealer that will cover it a lot of times they can cover it if they want to. Good luck!!
 
Found this on Southbendclutch.com



Colorado

n Automotive Transmission Specialist

4295 Kipling Street

Wheat Ridge, CO 80033

303-431-7973

303-431-0135 Fax



Don't know if it is close to you or not.
 
WHamby,



For reasons I won't go into here, I'll pass on that installer. I really appreciate the help though guys. Keep the ideas coming. I have found an installer already, and if we have to buy one I'll probably go with SBC - that seems to be the popular choice here.



This wasn't a budgeted item though, so if possible I'm gonna see what the dealer can do for us. I'm sure, out of the goodness of their heart, they'll just say Merry Christmas and give us the whole shebang.



Right!
 
For whatever reason the stock clutch did not hold up. . . you are probably better off with an upgrade, not another stocker. Installation here costs $275, BTW.
 
Something's not right. Either there is another problem, the clutch is defective (it can happen) or your wife rides the clutch (but your confident that isn't happening). I echo most of the other comments. If the clutch isn't covered, then don't take it to the dealer. The Southbend definitely seems to be the crowd favorite. I intend to get one when mine wears out (hope to get more than 22,000, though :rolleyes: ).

Once you've changed it out, if the mechanic can pinpoint the problem and its anything other than a worn out clutch, then I would go back to the dealer and seek restitution.

Dave



ps: if the dealer offers to give you a price break on the clutch replacement just to do you a "favor", I would pass. Been there, done that and it usually costs more than paying the whole shebang at an independant shop!
 
Pressure plate is 3/36. throwout bearing 3/36. Disc due to DRIVERS is 12/12. Brake pads 12/12 etc. Once its taken apart its easily seen normaly what the failure or worn out area. Look at the brake wear. Lots of times if driver releated you find clutch gone and brakes are heavily worn. Tires also. It seems to go hand in hand. No bull. They need to give you the labor figure and amount to turn the flywheel. then the parts price. then you can decide if to use Mopar parts or aftermarket etc. The labor stays rthe same. You can always call D. C. and ASK for assistance if its just plain worn. You can be there when its pulled down and look at it with the service manager. You won't want to hear this but its usually driver.
 
Thank you all!

Predictably, the dealer wasn't feeling like Santa Claus. Without tearing it down, they could see clutch material in the bottom of the pan and the only conclusion they could come to was "operator error". Since we're probably on our own at this point, I'm not gonna pay them to go farther looking for a warranteeable failure (is that a word?).



So tomorrow we're pulling it out of there. I found out my DTT installer, Bob Berends in Greeley, also works on rowers. Since the wisdom and experience I've come to respect on this site seems to cast a lot of votes toward SBC, we're going that route. The dealer did say that if we found any other cause for the failure, Dodge would reimburse the repair, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.



I have to tell you guys the response I got today on this post has been overwhelming. Offers of advice and help both here and in private messages have been truly over the top. My wife was pretty overwhelmed (even teared up a little) You guys are the best of the TDR, and I think now my wife understands a little better why I spend so much time lurking here.



Took me almost two years to get her to dump her old v10 gasser and go diesel. Who knows? Maybe she'll be posting on here herself before long... .



Thanks again guys!

Jim
 
lost clutch

lost my clutch at 20k due to wifes daughter babying my truck dealer replaced for free. new clutch as 40k on it daughter has not driven truck since. the ? is when you say wife babys it is she shifting at right rms and down shifting right. do not get me wrong i am not trying to put your wife down or anything it is i have seen alot of people get in these trucks and treat them as if they are gas powered. the ole ctd loves them shift points around 2300 to 2500 rpms. after you are out of granny of course
 
Different people's tendencies and problems in regards to shifting are hard to diagnose. But I have found the over-revving tendency's of the CTD because of the high pressure fuel system in our trucks warrant a different approach. A person needs to let up on the accelerator pedal before disengaging the clutch. Much more so than in a gasser. Otherwise you will have a over-run and possible clutch wear?
 
I have 32,000 miles on my clutch. I have slipped this clutch like crazy racing up and down the street. Let the stupid thing cool down and it still almost holds my power. Well, it holds to power, it just gets a little slippy on the 3 to 4 speed shift.



No reason a clutch should go out at 22,000 miles on a stock truck.
 
I always start of in 1st gear and let the clutch out with no throttle to get it moving, then give throttle. The low-idle governor takes care of launching. I feel that the use of 1st gear is easier on the clutch and drive train.



Dean
 
I had a older customer that every 15k needed tires,brakes,clutch. 2000 4x4 dodge with Cummin. Dont know what he did to it but went through this 3 times before I let the store.
 
Dean it would even be easier on the drivetrain if you always started out downhill or had a neighbor push you up to 6-7 mph before you let the clutch out. ;)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top