Archived 03 Engine Problems have the Dealer and me thunderstruck…

[AndersonChris]

I've changed the crank position sensor as well as the camshaft sensor and still throwing 0341, 0335, and 0016 along with other codes listed below. The truck will run fine for about 10-15 minutes and then has power surges and bad misses. Any ideas? please help!



Other miscellaneous codes:

2127- Pedal Position Sensor circuit low

0193-Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor circuit high input

2269-Water in fuel

0647-High voltage at AC clutch relay

0652-Sensor voltage 2 circuit low

2121

2266

0341



Truck is an 03 6sd Quad Cab with the TST tuner taken off due to these current issues. Also i have a HX40 Turbo, chattery when engaged Dual Disk South Bend Clutch, and Stage II Industrial Injection Injectors.



Thanks,

Chris Anderson

 

[BGlidewell]

Batteries checked?

 

[tp0d]

Definitely check the battery terminals. .

Also, disconnect the alternator and see if anything changes after 10-15mins. If the alt is bad, and outputting real noisy power, it can drive the ECM nuts.

Check ALL ground points closely, clean with a wire brush and reattach. Also check all the plugs on the ECM/PCM, and clean+lube with TV tuner cleaner/lube from Radio Shack.

good luck

-j

 

[AndersonChris]

Gentlemen,



Thanks for the prompt reply…



The batteries “tested” bad from when the O’Reilly’s guy hooked up the meter to test them… So I replaced them and then we tested the alternator after I installed the new batteries. The alternator tested fine at 14. 33-14. 66. I also had the guy watch the meter to see if there were any disturbances when I brought the rpm’s up on the motor.

I left the auto store and the same issues were occurring, intermittent loss of power and when I pull up to a stop light to idle it will try to keep running and sometimes fall on its face it I don’t give it throttle… When I got home I checked all grounds and the ECM/PCM and I’m still getting the below codes after I had the batteries disconnected for over 30 minutes. I tried to start it and right away it started having a rough idle trying to stay alive. Any other ideas?



Codes thrown after our first round of diagnostics…

2269

2127

0193

0652

0237

0335

2266

0341

2121





Thanks,



Chris Anderson

 

[JLandry]

Chris,



An alternator can test fine for adequate DC output at your local auto parts store, yet still be producing "noisy" current or "ripple" current on top of the normal DC. This noise isn't detectible by a DC voltmeter but can be seen using an oscilloscope. This ripple current can cause problems in the ECM or PCM.



tp0d suggested disconnecting the alternator and running the engine in order to eliminate the possibility ripple current could be the cause of these problems. With the alternator disconnected, the engine should run fine but possibly there will be some trouble codes thrown because of it. No big deal.



If the alternator doesn't wind up being the cause, it sounds like the ECM could be malfunctioning.



John L.

 

[Sticks]

I'd check the alternator for AC output as well. IIRC 500mv is the max tolerable (which may be the same as what JLandry is pointing out).

 

[BGlidewell]

fuel pump/fuel filter?

 

[Dieselnut59]

Simplest way to disconnect the alternator is to pull the big fuse coming from it at the power distribution box.

Definitely check the grounds, and even add more maybe. I am thinking this may be part of the problem with my Liberty CRD that is very hard to get running sometimes.

 

[AndersonChris]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions…



I changed the fuel filter and drained the fuel that was in the filter housing. The current filter has only been in for a few thousand miles because I think it’s a good principal to change the fuel filter as often as I change the oil… The FASS 150gph pump is running and I have fuel to the filter and the pump has been running consistently.



I unhooked the alternator from the battery and it didn’t fall on its face like it does when hooked up, however when I drove it around the block it did miss a few times but did not die or idle nearly as rough… After I hooked the alternator back up, the truck seemed to run fine, however I know if I drove it around for 10-15 minutes it will start back up running rough… It’s so frustrating that it’s an intermittent issue… Right when I think it’s fixed, I go to drive it for an errand and when I disengage the clutch it goes back to having a rough idle. Is there any way I could have bad fuel and it’s trying to advance the timing due to no detonation and in turn throwing a crank and cam misalignment code?



I guess I’ll go ahead and change the alternator and ill check back in with what I find when I get back into town from the holiday… If anyone has anymore ideas I’ll be checking the boards often…





Thanks again,

Chris

 

[Bill Weber]

I unhooked the alternator from the battery and it didn’t fall on its face like it does when hooked up, however when I drove it around the block it did miss a few times but did not die or idle nearly as rough… After I hooked the alternator back up, the truck seemed to run fine, however I know if I drove it around for 10-15 minutes it will start back up running rough…HOW DO YOU KNOW IT WILL?? It’s so frustrating that it’s an intermittent issue… Right when I think it’s fixed, I go to drive it for an errand and when I disengage the clutch it goes back to having a rough idle. COULD IT BE THE SWITCH ON THE CLUTCH, THAT PREVENTS THE TRUCK FROM STARTING WHEN THE CLUTCH IS NOT DEPRESSED, POSSIBLY SHORTING?? Is there any way I could have bad fuel and it’s trying to advance the timing due to no detonation and in turn throwing a crank and cam misalignment code?

Bill

 

[tp0d]

woah there, bill. . watch them caps

-j

 

[GaryOwen]

I remember some having problems with a worn wire inside a loom above the AC compressor. Caused a lot of problems that are similar to yours.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Have you ever worked on or changed the injectors? Are you sure the camshaft sensor is plugged back in correctly, with no pulled wires?

 

[seafish]

I remember some having problems with a worn wire inside a loom above the AC compressor. Caused a lot of problems that are similar to yours.

X2 on checking the a/c compressor clutch wire... here is a pic of the wire and what can happen to it where it runs underneath the fan housing...



IIRC the problem even got written up in a TDR article.



I am looking for the old threads that described the myriad problems people had when this wire intermittently shorted after the insulation was worn through by a bad clamp or somethin, but I CAN'T find them right now.



Anyone else have a link to one or two of them ??

 

[p-Bar]

X2 on checking the a/c compressor clutch wire... here is a pic of the wire and what can happen to it where it runs underneath the fan housing...



IIRC the problem even got written up in a TDR article.



I am looking for the old threads that described the myriad problems people had when this wire intermittently shorted after the insulation was worn through by a bad clamp or somethin, but I CAN'T find them right now.



Anyone else have a link to one or two of them ??

the computer uses 5 volts which is sent to the sensors the frey in the wire is shorting this to ground thus messing with the computer.

 

[AndersonChris]

I inspected the wiring harness and couldn't find anything wrong. However I went to start the truck and the problems seemed to have gone away and the truck isn't throwing a single code. So I ordered a new harness and when it's installed ill inform everyone if the truck is cured… Thanks everyone for your help thus far!

 

[AndersonChris]

I finally received the wiring harness last week and it fixed all of the issues! The old harness had cracks in it from bending to hook up to the TST harness… I took the TST off (Waste of $800) and am currently looking to acquire a Smarty so I can just load the software and not deal with wiring issues anymore… Also, now my AC works for the first time in years due to the TST tuner not hooked up and having the ground issue of me no running the ground into the cab…



Thank you everyone for you patience and guidance while we worked through the issues to find a cure!!!



Thanks again,

Chris

 

[BNH4221]

Which harness did you order? Engine? Whole truck? I'm starting to get some funky codes too and am working on solving the issues.

I'm curious as to anything that helped solve it.

Thanks -

Steve

 

[AndersonChris]

Steve,



If I were you I would definitely look at the wires close to the crank and cam sensors to ensure they are not grounding out on one another or the engine. A lot of the codes that the truck was throwing was on the same engine harness(cam, crank, water in fuel, A/C, fuel injectors, ect). I didn't know for sure if a harness was going to work or not but I was down to either changing injectors or looking internally at the cam sensor… I figured what the hell, throw $390 at an engine wiring harness and if it works great. Turns out it was the engine harness and when it out of the truck I can see that there are cracks grounding on each other…

 

[BNH4221]

Yeah, I checked the wires near the crank and they looked pretty good to me. Guess I'll have to check a little closer.

Last nite on the way home from work my fuel gauge went to dead empty and the low fuel lite came on. I only had 60 miles on a full tank. As I was pulling into home it started working again.

Two days ago it was the fan clutch speed too low warning. Fan was working fine and the code disappeared yesterday.

I've also had the code for fuel level sensor voltage or some other nonesense.



I'm also thinking it may be my batteries. They are the originals. I may replace them just as a preventative thing and see what happens. I'll be happy with 7 years out of them.



Off to prepare the house for Irene. Back in a couple of days.



Thanks for the help



Steve