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03 six speed sometimes hard to get into gear.

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transmission acts up in 3rd gear shift

Turbo and EGT's

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In My 2003 2500 4x4 sometimes it very hard to get it to slip into gear.



It will slip right in if I shift the transfer case into neutral.



It doesnt seem to have and noises or chatter like a throwout bearing and the clutch holds well and engages at about half travel.





Any ideas??
 
What happens if you just cycle the clutch?? Will it go into gear?



Mine will get between teeth and not drop in, I will sometimes have to cycle the clutch and it will slip right in. The NV5600 is also notchy, and I find the sometimes changing the fluid does help, even at a standstill shift.



If it isn't shifting otherwise, it very well could be drag from the clutch not completely releasing or the pilot bearing being sticky...
 
cycle the clutch and blip the throttle clutch disengauged and should go in, or if you have trouble going into reverse shift into 2nd then go to reverse. mines been like that since day one and on second transmission and similar situation.
 
Mine has always been very hard sometimes to get into gear at a standstill. I've learned that the best way to mitigate it is to push the clutch, wait a few seconds, then move the shift lever into gear.

That helps, but isn't 100% effective. Sometimes you're just between the lugs, and there's nothing to do but try rolling the truck slightly.

As Steve mentioned, it's an NV5600 thing. I've driven class 6 trucks and I think they're even worse with this kind of thing! I figure the bigger and heavier the transmission, the bigger the lugs, and therefore the bigger the space between the lugs and the more likely you are to be misaligned when the shaft stops rotating.

Ryan
 
Hay, the 5600 is a 300 lb transmission with some substantial gears that like to be coaxed into engagement, not slamed! If I'm in a hurry (ne: dragging) I start in 3rd to avoid those 2, slow, upshifts... . it's trully amazing how tough the OEM clutch has proven to be!!! These 5. 9's have an amazing power band and I would LOVE a bullet prooof 4 speed (3 + OD) in this truck!
 
Reverse seems to be the only booger at times. When I know im going for a 7th gear throw I find making sure the clutch is all the way to the floor for a second or two then go for the shift.



I read of numerous complaints with the 56 Honey over the years and always wanted one, now that I have one I love it. When cold those 3rd and 5th throws are tight but doesnt last long.



It's a Bullet;)



Mac:cool:
 
my trans is still the same pain to shift, and even alot harder with the sledpulling clutch, does your trans howl when its cold
 
I had the same issue as U. Had the transmission taken out, and the mechanic showed me where the gears wear was gone. My acted up at 40k, and was serviced by changing the trans. oil. But as in the beginning of this answer, U may have to have the gear #3 replaced. I just had the entire transmission replaced I got sick when i was told me the cost, cause it may have costed me more, then to replace it.
 
Mine has been doing this for about a year and seems to have gotten worse after changing the oil to Amsoil. My cousin also has an 03 and his was doing the same. He took the slave cylinder off and made a new rod 1/4 inch longer and he said it solved it and it shifts like a dream. I may try that, but have not gotten around to it yet.



~Blake~
 
Mine's been hard to get into first and sometimes second (when I start in that gear) since it was new. Sometimes I get in a hurry and force it - I know I'll have to pay for that some day. .
 
It has been suggested that when you have the transmission out of the truck to put a flat washer behind the ball stud the release fork pivots on.

Godspeed,
Trent
 
I second the action of putting it in another higher gear first then the lower gear. But I do try to put it in low gear just before coming to a complete stop, then to neutral if setting there for a while.

I just got mine rebuilt (4th time) and it is tight, I see no reason to try and speed shift this thing, it will not like it nor will you. $3100 this time but I did get a super clutch this time.

6th gear has been lasting about 4 months for me. Trying newer things all the time.
 
Just ran across my old post and wanted to say the adding on to the slave cylinder rod does NOT work!



Shifting problem still remains, but seems to change with the weather - I have NO idea why??



Today was really bad - almost impossible to shift for first 8 miles or so, then got better, and then got back to normal. Acts like the clutch is not fully releasing. I had a similar problem years ago with a Mercedes diesel that got gummy oil on the clutch disc. Drove me nuts and had to pull it and clean it to get it back to normal.



Heard from a friend who had a release problem caused by one of the clutch disc springs coming out and wedging itself between the pressure plate and disc. Everything else was fine on his, but it took him two transmission pull-outs to find it.



I wonder if the aftermarket adjustable master/slave cylinder combo would help with some of the "not quite releasing" problem?



Blake





Mine has been doing this for about a year and seems to have gotten worse after changing the oil to Amsoil. My cousin also has an 03 and his was doing the same. He took the slave cylinder off and made a new rod 1/4 inch longer and he said it solved it and it shifts like a dream. I may try that, but have not gotten around to it yet.



~Blake~
 
Is it the orignal clutch, never been changed, trans never been off the engine?



A broken spring would likely make a noise if it was in early stages or coming out of the damper that would go away after full engagement, pedal all the way up.



It IS possible to test your hydro's for an air bubble. Any air bubble reduces the total slave cylinder stroke. Period.



If you answered yes to the first question, trans has never even been off of the engine, then it is VERY possible for a build up of rust on the input shaft to inhibit the disc from sliding freely on the shaft, causes it to drag on flywheel turning input shaft and making shifting difficult.



If you would like to see video of hydro test, let me know.



Of course other possibilities exist, a fresh history would help.
 
I had the clutch replaced under the TSB recall for chattering clutch spring (or something like that) when the truck was less than a year old.

Fluid level in the master cylinder is fine, but I've never checked it for bubbles. Where would they come from?
 
Exploring any possible external cause for a release problem is easier and cheaper than installing a new clutch and finding you still have the same problem.



Fluid level, checks OK, not down.

Even with a small weep at a line joint, slave cylinder or master cylinder the fluid MIGHT seem full, OK. Here is what is happening with or w/o a leak. As the disc gets thinner from use the pressure plate casting moves forward getting closer to the flywheel and the fingers of the diaphragm spring move twords the transmission, they get higher relative to the F/W. The bearing moves back pushes the fork back, compresses the slave cylinder and the displaced fluid goes UP into the reservoir. Visually making up for a leak at the fluid level.



If you have a small leak anywhere, also possible for air to get in. Easy to pull slave cyl (leave it connected to line) and pull pushrod out, is it damp with fluid, not good. You can pull the boot off and look for fluid. It will not pop apart unless someone pushes on clutch pedal. Look at M/C pushrod by sliding the switch away a bit and look for fluid weeping.



Rust on the input shaft is sorta unavoidable, it is steel. VW's tried a "cure" for the rust on the disc by using a nickel plating on the hub splines.



Good luck.
 
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