'04 Headlight Problem & Source for Parts?

[lbailey47]

On my 2004 Dodge Diesel 2500 Quad Cab w/about 207,000 miles, my left headlight, low beam will not burn even with a replacement bulb. From reading various forums, this appears to be a problem with either the FCM (front control module) or the fuse block. I am going to go by the local dealership to find out what their prices are and availability for these parts.



Anybody had good success at buying these Mopar parts at a discount on the web???



Any other suggestions on this repair?



Lynn

PS... a shop repair estimate from an independent was $600+ for the FCM & labor

 

[stevelauer]

Exactly the same problem on my '06 Mega, Lynn. will be interesting to see replies.



Steve

 

[stevelauer]

Help

Is there no one who can help us here? I have changed the bulb as Lynn did with no luck and there are no P codes showing up - if a replacement module is required, shouldn't a P code show?

 

[lbailey47]

I've been dragging my feet but am going to have to get it fixed next week. My annual inspection expired on 05/31 & I'm running the risk of getting a ticket besides running on high beams at night.

 

[stevelauer]

Please let me know what you find out, Lynn. I'm in transit right now and prefer to put off any maint until I get home.

 

[lbailey47]

10-4 ... if you haven't heard from me a week or two... just post another note as a reminder & I'll respond.

 

[Kilroy]

First the passenger low beam, now both aren't working. I'm going to start with trying to take apart the fuse box to inspect and clean.

 

[lbailey47]

FIXED!!! Yesterday, I lifted the negative battery leads & removed the fuse block (rotated it after removing bolt). Then, I removed the 4 screws that hold the Front Control Module (FCM). It plugs into to a stationary contact built in to the fuse block. Then I took some spray contact cleaner, sprayed the contacts & then reassembled, reversing earlier steps. I started up the truck & immediately noticed that the lamp out warning message was gone. I promptly went to my auto mechanic & got my annual safety inspection done.

While I had it apart, I wrote down the part number from the FCM. I went searching on the web & found a replacement FCM for $88 plus shipping. at Dodge Parts - Make It OEM Factory Replacement. I did not order the part since the truck is working okay now but will order if it acts up again.

 

[Kilroy]

FIXED!!!

GreatOo. In researching this I've found some people who have done as you have, and some who replaced the fuse box. I did the clean up you described and it didn't work for me. Trying fuse box next.

 

[stevelauer]

Thanks, Lynn. I'll give it a try.

 

[stevelauer]

Well I tried it with no luck. The '06 has an integrated module (TIPM) and needs to be replaced to remedy this problem at $600 a whack - significantly more than $88 for your ''04. Sure enough, I put a voltmeter on pin 4 of C5 (LO H/L driver) and saw 0. 0V with low beam selected on. Why would Dodge do this, i. e. , combine several relatively lower cost modules into one expensive module? My guess is to reduce assembly costs, increase replacement profit, and export more US labor.



My solutions: 1. Pass on the replacement and not drive at night; and 2. stop buying profit driven instead of customer satisfaction driven Dodge products.

 

[lbailey47]

Sorry to hear about your situation. A real aggravation in keeping our modern vehicles running. My wife was told by local auto repair shop that the FCM on my vehicle would be $400 plus labor. The $88 price I found on the Internet is still a "vapor price" since I haven't actually purchased & received the part.

I'm afraid the is a gotcha with whoever's vehicle you are driving... . Ford, Dodge, GMC, etc.

 

[jelag]

Steve..... under new standards for DOT and some CA rules the manufactures are being forced to have one ALDL (data link) under the dash to control the complete truck and one testing port... .

Over the years I was taught to understand the theory of operation and than to diagnosis the problem and correct it... . what the manufacture has found is that the type of tech who can do this is gone... . and they throw parts at it to solve it... that's why a lot of parts are only available to the dealer after he's followed the computers advice and than called for approval to get the part and replace it... . I bet they've decreased the sale of unwanted parts by 95% and parts returned under warranty that are not bad because of this program.....

I used to sell test equipment and I found that if you got a ink eraser, and ran that across the male contacts of a connector, than used a good dielectric grease most problems went away and never returned. . I can't tell you how many cars/trucks I've fixed over the years by watching and understanding what's going on... .

If I was faced with the FCM or the TIPM giving me fits with lights I think I'd just wire in some relays, (simple to test) and trigger them off the headlight switch to solve the problem... After all, simple relays is how it was done for 30 or so years... .

We've already done this with most of our trucks that pull trailers... we have a box in the rear, and one on the trailer, and we run either a 6 gauge or 8 gauge wire to the rear, to the trailer and feed most of our circuits off of this... .

Just my thoughts. .

 

[lbailey47]

Jim... . appreciate your comments..... drafting supply companies used to have electric (rotary) erasers which would've been handy for this. I like your comments... . good food for thought.

<<I found that if you got a ink eraser, and ran that across the male contacts of a connector, than used a good dielectric grease most problems went away and never returned. .

If I was faced with the FCM or the TIPM giving me fits with lights I think I'd just wire in some relays, (simple to test) and trigger them off the headlight switch to solve the problem... After all, simple relays is how it was done for 30 or so years... . >>

 

[stevelauer]

Jim,



Thanks for the input. It is very possible that I don't understand it completely - possibly you can shed some light on it. The headlights are not fuse protected but protected by current limiters in the TIPM that can be reset by a StarScan or some other analyzer up to 5 resets until it is locked-out and then the TIPM must be replaced. Now here is where I may be a little off base:



I assumed that because only one of the external light driver pins on a single connector in the TIPM is not providing power when it should, resetting that connector's limiter(s) would not fix the problem because all of the other drivers on that same connector are working correctly. Am I correct? Possibly each circuit has its separate limiter that can be reset independently but I doubt it. This is why I thought a TIPM replacement would be required - hope I'm wrong.



Thoughts?



PS - The relay solution was also a recommendation of another tech.

 

[stevelauer]

Jim,



Thanks for the input. It is very possible that I don't understand it completely - possibly you can shed some light on it. The headlights are not fuse protected but protected by current limiters in the TIPM that can be reset by a StarScan or some other analyzer up to 5 resets until it is locked-out and then the TIPM must be replaced. Now here is where I may be a little off base:



I assumed that because only one of the external light driver pins on a single connector in the TIPM is not providing power when it should, resetting that connector's limiter(s) would not fix the problem because all of the other drivers on that same connector are working correctly. Am I correct? Possibly each circuit has its separate limiter that can be reset independently but I doubt it. This is why I thought a TIPM replacement would be required - hope I'm wrong.



Thoughts?



PS - The relay solution was also a recommendation of another tech.

Fixed,



Happy to admit that I was wrong! B code reset fixed the problem.

 

[jelag]

I can only assume that each output on the TIPM is a separate circuit... . LF low, RF Low, LF High, RF High... etc... that way one circuit overloaded wouldn't take out the full head light set and leave you in trouble... . In the past, this was done with one circuit breaker so if you grounded one side, you'd loose both headlights until the circuit breaker reset... now with the TIPM you can overload one circuit and the other stays lit... . and of course the same is for the rear of the truck... .

Hope this helps... .

 

[stevelauer]

Nice and correct summary, Jim.



I'm an old guy and somewhat familiar with older circuit design - my problem is that I relapse into that technology and fail to apply windage for the new stuff. Circuits of yesteryear would have made a mechanical ganged module that would have tripped all circuit protection for the entire module (connector) for simplicity. I failed to allow for EPROMs and such for each circuit, etc. In my defense, the buss asignment of the drivers is very well designed, i. e. , a failure of the connector would not put the vehicle in the dark - this may be what threw me. The engineers did a good job - not only did they provide for individual circuit protection and reset, they designed for complete connector failure.



Eating my humble pie.

 

[lbailey47]

from ORIGINATOR of this thread... . my problem has returned. I had pulled the fuse block & pulled the FCM & then reinstalled & the problem was resolved (no left lo beam). The "fix" worked about 6 weeks & then the 'no left lo beam" problem returned with error message on instrument panel. Think I'll pull the fuse block & FCM again. Maybe I can give the pins a minute "twist" & reconnect & hope for success.

 

[Kilroy]

Any updates on originators issue.
With my left low beam out. I tried taking the FCM out again, cleaning contacts, slightly tweaking prongs, putting back. Hurray, lights worked. Turns out for only a short while (3 days). Problem does seem to be in connection from FCM to PCM. Next time I'm going to use an eraser on each "large" prong. But how to clean the female connection on PCM? Teeny, tiny brass brush? Any suggestions on how to get a better connection is appreciated. Leaning toward separate relay off headlight switch, ala wiring to provide better voltage to lights, but bypassing FCM.