'05 cant find first gear?

[DFrank]

I could swear I posted this, but seem to have lost it.

My new to me '05 dually, cant find first gear, either by itself of manually.

I have codes P1756, which is Shift Solenoid, and 0868 which is transmission fluid pressure sensor.

Fluid was a little low, but adding a quart didn't help the issue.

I've only had this truck for a few weeks, and about 600 miles. It shifted flawlessly carrying the overhead camper into the mountains, but back home it lost first gear.

The previous owner did the BW governor pressure solenoid, as well as the governor pressure transducer about 2 years ago.

I am wondering if my wiring harness is shorted and causing these items to fail prematurely.

After reading anther thread, it sounds like I should replace the above components, maybe the wiring harness as well as the valve body, oh and all the billet stuff would be nice too. What does Billet even mean?

Thanks,

 

[DFrank]

The truck also has an Edge CTS, but no chip or probe.

This device is set up such that there was always power to the display, and my battery drained down after sitting parked for 5 days.

I unplugged the unit from the rear of the screen, with to save battery, and because I didn't like the night driving light interference.

Is there anything on the truck harness end that might interfere with the computer or throw codes?

 

[Motorhead]

From what I have seen and heard, it is usually a bad solenoid.

 

[promisedland]

Billet means that the part is machined out of ONE piece. Not two or more pieces slipped together.... No seams, etc. Stronger and more $$$
You know how marketing works; the wording 'billet' is prob used more then it should be.....

 

[cerberusiam]

If you haven't yet, change solenoid and transducer. Since your batteries drained that is also a big concern, that in itself will cause electrical glitches. Make sure cables are all good and clamps tight. Would not hurt at this point to pull battery cables and ti th eground cables together to discharge the ECU completely and reload the volatile memory areas.

Both codes are for the transducer, pressure not meeting set point and the voltage too high on transducer. The VB harness is a typical culprit as it will short and mess up the readings while shorting out the transducer. A harness an the DNC gov upgrade would be a good choice and add a BD transducer should solve the problems for the life of the truck.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks Cerb. I was hoping you'd reply to this.

Are the solenoid and transducer hiding just inside the pan cover?

Are they relatively easy to change?

The BD transducer, is that short for Bully Dog?

I think you said to tie the grounds together to clear the memory. I am not familiar with this. Do I disconnect all battery leads and then jumper both negatives together?

Can someone suggest a one stop web site to order all these parts?

What do you guys like for new transmission oil? Did I read that it takes 4.5 GALLONS?

Thanks again!

 

[cerberusiam]

Aftermarket solenoid and housing: http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/48regovernorsolenoidhd.aspx

BD Diesel transducer: http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/bd-diesel/transducer-upgrade-kit.htm

The problem is almost always the transducer but while you are at it the solenoid needs replaced. This should be the last solenoid you ever buy and hopefully the transducer also.

They are both right under the pan and easy to replace. They are actually both on the gov housing that get replaced by the DNC piece. Hand tools only needed.

Yes, to disconnecting ALL the battery cables. Just use boost cables to tie the ground cables together and set the other end on the ground.

Capacity of a 48RE is about 16 quarts so 4 gallons. I typically use 20 quarts to do a fluid exchange to make sure al the old is flushed out. I use ATF+4 because it is probably as good as there. Buy it at Walmart to save a few bucks, it is basically all the same just different packaging.

 

[DFrank]

Thank you Cerb. One more rookie question: when I've done my now trans fluid, I drain, drop the pan, then refill. Is there a method to flushing if you don't have whatever a shop would use to flush it? Do I just rinse through from the dip stick with a few extra quarts?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, the rear cooler line makes a good drain point. Disconnect and put a hos eon it to route it into a bucket. After dropping the pan and replacing it and parts add the typical 5 quarts to bring it full, start the truck in neutral and watch the flow from hose, when it starts to slow shut truck off and fill trans again. Repeat this 3 times, or, watch the fluid coming out of the cooler line and when it looks new stop and top off the trans. Once you do it a couple times you get the feel for how long to run until it is time to refill with 4 quarts. I generally buy 20 quarts and end up with 1-2 left.

This will flush most of the old fluid out of the TC and clean the cooler lines as well as possible.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks again. Parts on order. That flush description was perfect. That step might have had me sub this out to get a good flush, but that sounds pretty easy.

I was going to use Royal purple ATF Max. Comes in five gallon jug.

 

[cerberusiam]

If the Royal Purple costs more than ATF+4 I would not bother, but, I change the fluid at least every 30-35k.

Aside form one of exchange machines what I described is the easiest way to do it. By rights, it should be done with the rear wheels off the ground and the TC locked to get the most fluid out of the sump without mixing but and extra 4 quarts above max seems to get most of it just idling in neutral.

 

[DFrank]

So I got the solenoid and the transducer.

Drove the truck for the first time in a week today to do some errands and warm it up before draining the ATF.

Truck resumed normal shifting and the CE light disappeared.

It still shows the p0868 and 1756 codes, but it drives normally.

The original owner replaced the solenoid about 2 years ago, with the Cascade one; how can I diagnose whether this part ought to be replaced again?

If this part has actually failed again, why would I want the Cascade version again?

 

[cerberusiam]

Both codes are likely the transducer not the solenoid. I would do the 2 links I posted for you and call it a day.

 

[DFrank]

Thanks. The first link was the solenoid, the second was the transducer, unless I missed something or maybe you pasted the solenoid link unintentionally.

What was the first link supposed to be if not the solenoid?

 

[cerberusiam]

The first link is the HD upgrade solenoid as opposed to the OE style. If you already have the upgraded one then the transducer is probably the issue.

 

[DFrank]

So I got this done, and it drives well, though it hd "fixed" itself before I did, so who knows.

I cant get the codes to clear.

I disconnected the batteries and jumpered the negatives together and then to the block, for a few seconds. Did I need to wait longer?

Will lots of key cycles clear them out?

Is there still a problem in the transmission unrelated to what I fixed? Shorted out VB harness maybe?

I do find the dip stick hard to read on these, I guess do to it splashing around in there. I did not end up trying to flush it, as it looked clean and no metal or sludge in pan by the magnet.

Is there any reason aside form cost, that these pans don't have drain plugs? dropping the pan is messy, even with the big catch basin thing I have for it.

It also seems wrong that these wiring connections are just loose in the oil. Was there supposed to be so clip that anchored them up to the ceiling, or underside of the transmission? I'm sure they still get splashed all the time even if they weren't bathing in the fluid.

Thanks,

 

[cerberusiam]

You have to clear the codes with a scanner, the DTC's are stored in memory and won't go away by themselves. You try batteries disconnected for 30 minutes but on a lot of ECU's that won't work either.

Of course cost is the factor on a drain plug, that and they don't want you messing with he transmission. A lot of newer vehicles you cannot even check the fluid. I always add a plug first change or get a steel pan with a plug in it.

The wire son the VB should be tied down in several places with zip ties, they should not flop around.

 

[DFrank]

Truck just went into limp mode and threw 1753 and CEL.

i hadn't gotten the codes cleared from before.

Im hoping I can get the codes cleared and drive it home.

Can this be done at a NAPA or similar?

not a lot of options in the mountains on a Saturday.

 

[cerberusiam]

TTVA motor is either not working correctly or there is a bad connection to it.

 

[DFrank]

Is there another name for ttva?Parts person can't find this in computer.*I wonder if my non zip tied*pig tail on the solenoid, or transducer might be shorting this out.*