06 5.9L G56, Bad vibration @ 2700RPM

[MEGATRK]

I have a 2006 Ram with the G56 manual trans with 214,000 miles. My #4 injector just recently fouled out (#6 previously @ 150,000 miles, but cleared up) so I parked the truck. It had been running rough all winter, a little blue smoke till she warmed up, but I dismissed that as the injectors needing to be changed. Ordered a set of Dragon Fly 60hp injectors from Industrial Injection. I had a local shop (25 years in business medium/h.d. Truck repair) install the injectors for me as well as do a valve lash adjustment on the intake and exhaust. They asked me about the vibration at higher rpm's, I has never noticed it before. My truck now starts and runs great, however when I get up to 2700 rpm in 6th gear she starts shaking pretty badly. I let off and let her coast down and it took it a little to shop shaking. Previously I have felt a little chatter in the clutch while stopped while coming on or off the clutch pedal, I was figuring my throwout bearing was starting to go and would soon need to put a new clutch in my truck. I've been looking at getting one from South Bend Clutch. Now she shakes when I get up to 2700rpm. Is it the clutch that's going? Other than that she runs great now, starts up great, revs great. Please help. Thank you!

 

[RVTRKN]

Well it's a good time to have the G56 inspected, if you feel you need a new clutch. Inspect the U-Joints for any issues as we'll. If you still have the DMF, that also can cause your vibration, go with the SMF Kit from SBC if it hasn't been changed out.

 

[CKelley1]

i have never heard of getting that many miles out of a dual mass flywheel, you may have just set a record. southbend makes a kit that includes everything. a single disk conofe kit will work for you. while the g56 is out fill the g56 with sae 50 wt synthetic syncromesh transmission fluid then pour two or three quarts of royal purple syncromax in the top and replace the red rubber boot with a dorman 614-002. the dmf has a bad habit of damaging the input seal, change both the input seal and bearing. here is a list of some of the 50wt oils. delvac from ww granger is in gallons the other in 5 gallon pale only. if 4wd replace the transfer case to the 50 wt. i just seen the amsoil dealer, the amsoil part is at the bottom the royal purple syncromax equal is amsoil manual transmission fluid, it used to have 5w-30 on it but the new box i did not see it.
Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50
Delo Synthetic Transmission Fluid SAE 50 delivers exceptional all-climate, year-round performance in heavy duty truck transmissions. A unique additive package can protect gears without using the “active sulfur” agents commonly found in automotive axle oils. This results in little to no corrosion and long life for copper-containing parts, such as oil coolers, bushings, and thrust washers. Good pumpability in extreme hot or cold temperatures promotes smooth shifting and efficient power transfer. It is specifically formulated to meet the latest extended drain requirements for Eaton transmissions, with drain intervals of up to 500,000 miles.
Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions
that specify an automatic transmission fluid or motor oil.
It is also ideal for transfer cases and 2-cycle motorcycle
gear boxes.
Synchromax is formulated with Royal Purple’s synthetic,
proprietary Synerlec additive technology, offering
improved shift quality over a wide temperature range and
reduced gear noise.
Synchromax is fully compatible with all types of friction
materials and offers excellent corrosion and oxidation
protection without affecting the soft metals commonly
found in manual transmission synchronizers.
Performance Advantages
• Greater wear protection
• Smoother shifts
• Excellent rust / corrosion protection
• Reduces friction for more power
• Lowers operating temperatures





Delvac from ww granger
Castrol 50 wt is syngear CD50 o’rileys p/n syn 50-5
Amsoil FT F05-EA

 

[RVTRKN]

Haven't heard from you in awhile CKelley1, how was the winter there in New Mexico this year? Also, last year you recommended a 50/50 mix, has something changed? BTW, I'll be changing out your recommended oil mix in a month, not because I'm not happy with it, but I'm adding a OEM auto transmission oil cooler in the front of my radiator (yes it bolts right up) and a pump with a filter to keep my G56 cool. I have seen as high as 230* oil temperature, but that was only at 15K GCVW and 90* ambient temps. I'm doing the cooler as best I can without a shop in my back yard, but it will be a quality install. It is expensive though, I have $350.00 invested so far in the three components it will take (Cooler, Pump & Oil filter housing) , all I need now is the Russell fittings and braided hose.

 

[MarkEkberg]

i have never heard of getting that many miles out of a dual mass flywheel, you may have just set a record.

Really? I am just cruising past 200K now. Am I in for immanent failure?

 

[jgillott]

Really? I am just cruising past 200K now. Am I in for immanent failure?

The Dual Mass Flywheel is unique to the G56 trans from the newer trucks (mid year 2005 and newer). Your 2003 will have an NV5600 with the traditional flywheel. You are fine.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Good to know. Thank-you.

 

[CKelley1]

rvtrkn i changed fluid in one of the g56's and decided to try a 70- 30 blend to see how it shifted this winter. the night it got 20*below zero it shifted pretty well, about a quarter mile from the yard it was the same as 50-50-blend. i also increased the oil to three quarts over full. i will log the temps this summer and compare to last year to see if there is a difference.

 

[Regcabguy]

rvtrkn i changed fluid in one of the g56's and decided to try a 70- 30 blend to see how it shifted this winter. the night it got 20*below zero it shifted pretty well, about a quarter mile from the yard it was the same as 50-50-blend. i also increased the oil to three quarts over full. i will log the temps this summer and compare to last year to see if there is a difference.

By 70-30 you mean more 50wt and less 5-30?

 

[CKelley1]

yes, more 50 less 5-30

 

[ManiacMike]

Hello all, new-to-site guy says thanks in advance, I have RP Syncromax in both boxes and the SBDD has made the G56 loud. I'm leaning toward a blend of Mobil STF 50 and the RP
Syncromax in the trans and transfer case. After reading CKelley1's posts a 50/50 blend in both should do fine, correct?

 

[RVTRKN]

It's not going make a difference what you use, it's going to make noise. The key to the oil is to protect the synchronizes first, then help to dissipate the heat second. Lubrication is a given when oil is necessary, but the G56 has two weaknesses, the first is a one piece case (bell housing is part of the case as casted) and the gears will misalign when it runs hot due to softening the aluminum case from high heat and that one piece case will stretch. The second is, even though it's not part of the trans, is the DMF.

BTW, I had mine inspected and the browned bearings replaced by a competent tech on the G56, and have used three different oils in it, it's still very noisy, partly because of the SBC DD3250, and the solid mass flywheel.

 

[ManiacMike]

I knew the SBDD was going to increase the noise, thing is I tow a 15k trailer and run some extra power too (40 horse tune, no timing) and I want to a) protect the transmission b) hear the radio again....I can buy the 50wt from a vendor in Memphis and run it straight, gets cold here 4 months a year with lows below 0, so a blend may be best, just don't know what works best in a four season climate.

 

[WOT]

I have the sb dual disc (street). I switched to delvac 50 when it was installed so I can't comment on noise with other oils. For me it is only slightly noisier than a sb single disc except in 5th below 1600 rpm. Anything more than very slight throttle and the transmission rattles like a bunch of marbles. Hit 1600 rpm and it goes away. All other gears are quiet. In neutral you can hear the clutch rattle a bit but it isn't bad.

 

[RVTRKN]

1500 RPM is my cutoff when the marbles disappear, and is a problem in third gear, because I kept it in third gear while turning corners. But now if I'm too slow, I have to slow down to shift to second or I just slowly accelerate to keep the marbles quiet until I've pasted the 1500 RPM mark. Any members here see their transmission temperature? I have seen my temperature as high as 230*, but at only 15K GCVW.

 

[wcjp]

When my rear middle driveshaft Ujoint went bad it was RPM specific. I used an infrared heat gun to determine the middle Ujoint was 10degrees warmer than the other two. When the driveshaft was removed it was obvious the middle Ujoint was bad. The factory Ujoints are held in place with injected plastic. I had a shop do the Ujoint replacement.

 

[MEGATRK]

Thank you everyone for the input. I was already planning on replacing the pilot bearing when the trans is out. Hadn't thought of doing the input oil seal on the trans. I'll have that done as well. I am now having a problem on finding a trans shop to do the install for me. I've been going through the list of distributors/shops on South Bend Clutch's web sight and none of then in the South East Michigan area are no longer in business. I just don't have the time or manpower to do the install myself right now. My wife has breast cancer and going through chemo not leaving me much time for a project like that right now. I had just called the dealer and they said $936 (8 hours) to do the install. Are there any reputable installers in the South East Michigan area?

 

[RVTRKN]

That was a problem for me in SoCal, I couldn't find a reputable shop willing to install the SMF with the DD3250 clutch. I was turned down at several shops, even the transmission shop that worked on my other vehicles in the past. If the dealer is willing to perform the conversion, than that seems to be your better option.

 

[seafish]

I am now having a problem on finding a trans shop to do the install for me. I've been going through the list of distributors/shops on South Bend Clutch's web sight and none of then in the South East Michigan area are no longer in business.

MAYBE a quick cal to SB could give you an updated distributor/installer working in your area. That being said, if you are sure of the quality of the mechanics work at your drealer, nothing really wrong with that, BUT I would rather work with someone that SBC recommends.

 

[6speed]

Towing in 6th is not a good idea. Trans temps get way to high. RVTRKN even said he has seen 230. I have seen as high as 245. I have towed in 5th for years and now only see 180-190. However I have a Gear Vendors. And 2700 in 6th gear, MEGATRK you got to be running about 100 mph or better. Without the Gear Vendors I was doing 80 at 2400.