'06 A/C Compressor Replacement

[Karter]

I had the A/C compressor seize on me on a road trip the other day, which also snapped the serpentine belt. Since I was in the middle of nowhere and I needed to get home (150 miles) that night, I ended up getting a replacement compressor and changing it out in a Mcdonald's parking lot. I'm not an A/C guy, but sometimes situations make us do things we don't know enough about.

The compressor came with 3oz of oil in it, which was enough to get home on, with a discharged system. Then I had no time to vacuum the system down before I had to make another road trip, so I put a couple small cans of oil in it and a couple cans of refrigerant, just so I could get on the road again. Now I have a couple days home to do a better repair, but I'm not exactly sure what needs to be done. I'm told that there is a screen somewhere that I should've cleaned and some type of dryer that should be replaced? Can anyone help me find these parts on the truck? Once these things are corrected and the system is drained again, I should be able to vacuum it out and recharge it correctly, right?

Does it hurt the vehicle to drive it the way it is?...with oil and refrigerant in the system? I'm not trying to use the AC, although when you first turn it on, it blows cold, but within 15 seconds it starts to warm up.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Motorhead]

Did the CLUTCH freeze up and break the belt or was it the compressor? In other words, was the A/C ON when the failure occurred?
The difference is that if the A/C froze up due to the internals of the compressor failing, You have now circulated all the debris from the first compressor failure into a new compressor.
If the A/C was OFF when just the CLUTCH failed then you shouldn't have the debris in the system. There is a lot more to replacing a compressor than just putting a new one on and adding freon.

 

[Karter]

Thanks for the reply. No, the A/C was not on when it failed. I now realize that I need to also replace the orifice line and the accumulator to ensure that no debris is clogging the system. After I get that done, I'll vacuum down the system and recharge it.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Thanks for the reply. No, the A/C was not on when it failed. I now realize that I need to also replace the orifice line and the accumulator to ensure that no debris is clogging the system. After I get that done, I'll vacuum down the system and recharge it.

What Motorhead is saying is that the compressor was not running if the AC was off and the bearing in the clutch failed, therefore you should not have to worry about trash in the system.You may have an issue with oil in the system. If too much it will keep the system from performing as designed (won't cool as much).If too little then could cause compressor failure. There should have been some instructions with the new compressor as to how to determine how much oil to replace. bg.

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks for the reply. No, the A/C was not on when it failed. I now realize that I need to also replace the orifice line and the accumulator to ensure that no debris is clogging the system. After I get that done, I'll vacuum down the system and recharge it.

So my question is: Have you run the NEW COMPRESSOR with refrigerant in the system?

 

[Karter]

Ok, I get it now. Yes, I did attempt to run the system with oil and refrigerant in the system, however I didn't have the equipment to evacuate it first...I was stuck on the road. I may try evacuating it tonight and recharging it tonight, without changing the accumulator and orifice, if you guys think those parts may be good yet?

 

[Motorhead]

General practice is to flush the entire system in case the old compressor was shedding wear particles, replace the orifice tube and the receiver drier. After the system flush, add the proper amount of oil to the system, evacuate it then charge. Is the A/C cooling now?

 

[Karter]

It cools for 15 seconds and then starts to warm up. I'm cool with changing the parts, but the @#%$$%$# connectors are such a pain to get apart. I had the dealership replace the compressor less than 2 years ago and its already failed and I haven't been able to get the lines apart using the spring tools either. I would think that an AC system would last more than 2 years, particularly when we use AC so little in WI. I'm almost ready to give up on this thing.

 

[Motorhead]

This is the type of tool I use: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-39400-...38028&sr=8-6&keywords=ac+line+disconnect+tool
When you push the tool up to release the spring, you need to push the line TOGETHER as you are pushing the spring release up into the fitting, then pull the fitting apart. When the dealer replaced the compressor, was it a rebuilt unit or NEW FACTORY OE part? Problem is CHEAP Chinese bearings. You can compromise the cooling by adding too much oil.

 

[PWong]

I would think that an AC system would last more than 2 years, particularly when we use AC so little in WI. I'm almost ready to give up on this thing.

That's one of the reasons that the system wouldn't last long.
The seals would dry up and leak.
If you don't use it you lose it.
I run my compressor even in winter (defrost mode).

I am going to bet your new contaminated compressor won't last long since the system was never flushed clean and orifice tube/dryer was not replaced.