'07, 5.9 G56. Clutch slipping at 15,000mi??

[Motorhead]

I just noticed today while getting on the freeway that when I got into it the clutch slipped right away. I had no pre notice of this. I am not leaking any oil. I have the never run my Smarty jr but on second setting. I towed 3,000 miles with it at that setting just 2,000 miles ago with no problems. I DON'T tear up clutches. Drove UPS trucks for 30 years and never tore up a clutch in them.
I thought I read somewhere that there was a problem with the DMF clutches??

Anyone got them to warranty it??

 

[MrFixit]

Were you aware there was an issue w/ SW2 =SW3? Although I think if you are as easy on it as you say, probably is not an issue.

 

[Regcabguy]

I've got the older . 79 final drive which may buy me and my constant load a little more time. I'm keeping Smarty on sw#1. Try dropping the power and see if that helps. Otherwise,you're looking at a new clutch. :{

 

[abrankod]

There is a TSB out on the clutch self adjuster breaking and causing clutch slippage on the 06-07 trucks. I had mine start to slip at only 8000mi.

-dan

 

[Motorhead]

There is a TSB out on the clutch self adjuster breaking and causing clutch slippage on the 06-07 trucks. I had mine start to slip at only 8000mi.

-dan

Dan, Did you get them to replace it?

 

[SShafranko]

My clutch has been slipping since i added the EDGE around 50,000 miles ago, and it only does it on the highest level, but i have slipped many clutches in my mustangs and this is the first one that i cannot SMELL! Makes me wonder: is it the clutch slipping? I've been called crazy before so don't hesitate.

 

[SShafranko]

There is a TSB out on the clutch self adjuster breaking and causing clutch slippage on the 06-07 trucks. I had mine start to slip at only 8000mi.



-dan

I would like to check mine. Where is it located?

 

[abrankod]

The clutch self adjuster is part of the pressure plate assembly on the OEM dual mass flywheel clutch. It is sort of a ratchet mechanism that is supposed to do something, I know not what, since I've never seen them on any other clutches. When it starts to fail, you will notice that the clutch will make an occasional ratcheting noise when you put down a lot of power; accompanied by the slippage increasing. Another issue I had with the OEM clutch is the little stainless steel spring clips that hold the clutch hydraulic lines together. One of the clips broke and I suddenly lost my clutch coming off an exit ramp of a highway... lucky I know how to properly shift by just rev matching! Got er home and did a temporary repair with a bent paper clip twisted into the correct shape.

I only found out about the TSB AFTER I went to SouthBend for one of his fantastic dual disc clutches with single mass flywheel. I do regret not having known about the TSB before because I could have had them change the clutch, and then sold it to offset the cost of the SB. But, eh, whatcha gonna do?!

-Dan

 

[GCroyle]

Self Adjusting Clutch, SAC

The SAC was first introduced to the US market on the Ford Ranger and since then Ford, GM and Chrysler have used them as OE. Their claim to fame involves several features. I am not representing the company that makes them.



Traditional Clutch.

As the disc thins down due to normal wear, three things start to happen.

1. Spring finger tips get higher, moving in the direction of the trans.

2. Release load increases, this primarilary occurs near the end of the useful service life and can be an indicator of short clutch life remaining.

3. Clampload increases, and then decreases as the disc approaches worn out.



SAC.

As the disc thins down due to normal wear, a spring inside the SAC system senses a change in pressure applied to it and allows the ratcheting mechanism to advance and basically make the pressure plate seem taller, making up for the decreased disc thickness. This repeats until the system wears out.

The release load stays very constant, you do not feel any change in effort, the spring tips stay in an operating range very close to the original position.



What I belive the comments from TDR members are referring to is due to a reason that I am not sure of, but the system is advancing too far without being triggered by an actual decreased disc thickness. This may put the spring in an advanced "wornout" position.



If you looked at the three trigger springs on top of the cover, when new the springs are pretty close together, as soon as you install it and release the clutch a few times, the system responds to the disc thickness and sets itself. When the disc is fully worn out, the springs are extended very far, near the end of their travel. This (wear indicator) ratchet also would require resetting it to a new start point IF the cover was removed and reinstalled. This is done by pressing the spring tips down very carefully and holding them down and taking two or three screwdrivers and resetting the ratchet back, holding it in place then very slowly, allow the fingers to come up.



Again, I do not work for the company that makes them. They do represent a development trend that we are seeing showing up in more and more applications, they even have one in the PT Cruiser, Saturn, D-Max and many more.

 

[KWG]

i have an early 07 with a g56 without any programmers or chips and my clutch started slipping at about 39000. i just replaced it with a valair kevlar/ceramic clutch rated for 500hp and 1000 ftlbs and i've never been happier. the whole kit including flywheel ran about 1260. 00 after shipping and about 4 hours of work with my brother and friend. bottom line is the oem clutch is crap