1/4 tank fill up

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How many gallons does it take you guys to fill up from a 1/4 tank as mine is around 17 gallons and we have 35 gallon tanks, right? This does not seem right to me and I hope I am not having trouble with my fuel sending unit now.

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's

 

[Archive]

About 24 ga. from1/4 to full for me. Mine seems like it stays on full longer than it should before it starts to move. The most I've put in is 33 ga. ,it was on empty with the warning light on,my fingers were crossed.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,30,000 GVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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24-26 gal. for me. It sounds like your sending unit is going-going - gone!

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D.
Eastern PA.

 

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As I am now getting ready for vacation, how much are the senders going for and what is the best way to go about changing the sender unit is it by lifting the bed or dropping the tank?


Paul

 

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Flatlander,I've gained access to the fuel tank module both ways. Removing the bed was easiest,but I do have a forklift with 8 ft long forks. A comealong or wench and good overhead beam would work just as well. If you have to jack it you're better off dropping the tank.

 

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I would agree with illflem and Paul, about 24-26 gallons required to fill at the 1/4 full mark. I also add 5. 2 oz. of Red Line 85+ Diesel fuel conditioner at every fill up.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X spray in liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus many other trick modifications

 

[Archive]

Lifting the bed is easy. All you need is a good floor jack and some wood blocks. My friend and I changed mine in about an hour. And we had to take off running boards.

Remove the attachment bolts (8) total but leave the back ones in but loose to keep things from getting out of wack.
Don't forget to disconnect the ground strap on the passenger side fron of the bed.
Also, you have to remove the three phillips screws that hold the fuel filler tube (neck) to the side of the box.
I put the floor jack under the truck at the front of the bed with a piece of 4x4 cut to just fit up under the bed.
Jack it all the way up. The bed will tilt back like a dump truck. I left my topper on with all the junk loaded! No problem!
Block it between the frame rails and the bed for safety.
A large C-Clamp did the trick for unscrewing the large ring that secures the fuel gizmo to the tank.
Out with the old, in with the new.
Reverse procedure to re-assemble. Be sure you don't mess up the gasket. When lowering the bed you might have to guide the fuel filler neck back into place behind the fuel door.

The fuel sending unit/assembly is craziest looking gizmo i've ever seen. It sort of telescopes to keep the pickup strainer and sending unit in the same position relative to the bottom of the tank. I think the tank must stretch and/or change shape with temperature or the amount of fuel or something.
The new one I purchased was considerable different than the old one. The new one had more plastic parts and the sending unit itself looked different. Hopefully they fixed it.

Good Luck!

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98. 5 2500 QC LB 4x4 5spd, white. BFG 285x75x16
Cummins 24v w/ TST PowerMAX w/EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar.
VanAaken CPC. K&N In the factory air box. Stock Injectors, Stock Exhaust (complete with rattling baffles in muffler).
SnugTop, JJ Stainless Running boards, Tow Hooks, Bushwacker Street Flares, and a Cup Smoothie.
60,000 miles (5/18/00)

 

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This may just be more proof as to the unit going bad but after thinking more about it I have also noticed that the gauge when tank is full does not completly go to the full mark. Could the sender be out of adjustment or is there any kind of adjustment to these senders.
Thanks Sean for the steps on replacing the sender as it sounds I may be needing them.

Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's

 

[Archive]

I did the sender change a little different than Sean. Same tools and procedure, but instead of leaving the rear two bolts on, I took the four driver side bolts out and only loosened the passenger side bolts prior to jacking. Took about an hour to do it by myself using a floor jack and some 4x4's. I like the idea of using the C-clamp to remove the sender hold down.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3300 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters, K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
97,000 miles and counting.