Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #1 plunger sticking in p7100

[DSoutherland]

Dropped my truck off this morning to have the timing done. When I called to see if I could pick it up this evening I was told that the # 1 plunger was sticking. He said that the barrel was scorn , and that it looked like the pump had been run low on oil. I was told that it would stick at start up and break free in the higher rpm's, shut the truck off and it would stick again at start up. In the past six months that i've own the truck I've kept the oil in the safe zone. He said they will work on it and see if he can free it up. I have a general understanding of how these pumps work. I learn something new everyday. If they are able to free it up how long will it last, what will they do. Should i go on and do a rebuild, or would i be better of buyin a new pump?

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

If it's scorn maybe someone chewed it out Bad or dirty fuel would cause a scored plunger bore, not low engine oil. Might run a super dose of diesel additive to see if that helps. What kind of symptoms are you having? If it gets to where the bore becomes galled you'd have to remove the pump and have a shop lap the plunger bore (not very expensive but it might be better to do it sooner rather than later). It does cost some bucks to R&R the pump if you have it done, it's doable at home just takes some work.

 

[DSoutherland]

Galded is a better word. When you bar the engine over the plunger would come to the top like it is supposed to ,bar the engine on over and the plunger would stay and you have to force it down. Before I took it to have it timed it white smoked and had a load popping noise at start up.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

It would probably be worth your while taking the pump off and having it worked on, but if it's beyond lapping then you'd be looking at a rebuild, pretty spendy. You might want to keep an eye out for another pump and use yours for a core incase it's not repairable for reasonable cost.

To do the pump R&R yourself would require having a timing kit for setting the timing when reinstalling it, and a swivel socket & long extensions to get at the mount nut furthest down between the pump and engine. And undoing the fuel return line from the back end of the pump is a pain too. But all very doable. I was told pump R&R is about $700 but that was awhile ago.

 

[DSoutherland]

I've been looking in to it, and it seems 700 is about right. But i might have ran across another pump, supposed to get a price monday. Think I should replace the lift pump to.

 

[DSoutherland]

found a reman from pensacola diesel for 725 with free shipping. Anyone bought anything from them. I was considering there 90 hp injectors for 199 with no core charge.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Haven't heard much good about Pensacola Diesel, money would be much better spent on some other pump that probably wouldn't cost very much to have a shop run through. I cost me about $350 to have my pump worked on which included lapping one plunger bore that bled down too fast, balancing flow across cylinders, then calibrating and tweaking it to the cam plate I wanted to run. Pump had about 365,000 miles on it at the time.