Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #11 plate full forward, 4k GSK power is low and low boost???

[BCriste]

Hey guys,



My truck is a 96' 3500, 2wd, 5-speed, 3. 54. The truck has a Luk clutch and a standard transmissions trans. 228k miles. At about 170,000 I installed Gauge's (EGT before the turbo). At 190k miles I slid the stock plate full forward, sent the kitty and muffler away and set the timing between 15 and 16 degrees. I could at that time (pulling a trailer) get the EGT's over 1300 ( let off the go peddle when it got over 1300) and the boost was about 26lb. I then (at 200k miles)decided to install a pac brake, a PDR 4k GSK, a #11, valve springs, a boost elbow, and an AFE mega-cannon. The pac brake works great. The engine however, has a slight idle bounce, when you let off the go pedal, but that wasn't bad. The truck would idle very slightly rough, and sometimes slightly low with the air conditioning on; that wasn't bad. The extended RPM's where nice(from the GSK), but the truck really didn't pull very hard above 2800rpm. Don't get me wrong, the truck was MUCH, MUCH better above 2800rpm than it was before but it just seemed to lay over more than I expected; but that wasn't bad. The problem I had was the performance on the low RPM's (say idle to 1800) where slightly worse than the stock plate forward, and much worse in the middle RPM's (1800 to 2600), and the only area of improvement was above 2600 and as stated earlier, that was not as impressive as I expected. The other unusual thing is that the EGT's will stay under 1100 under any condition under 2700rpm which is approx. 30lb of boost. If you do continue to stay in it above 2700 say up to approx 3200 the boost will creep up to about 34lb and the EGT's will go up to approx. 1300. But, under no conditions can I get near 36lbs of boost and definitely not under 3200rpm. At this point the #11 was near stock position.



Well, this afternoon I thought I would slide the plate full forward and check the adjustment of the governor lever. The lever was fine as per the instructions. The performance was marginally better and the egt's are close to the same (maybe slightly higher). The only thing that is puzzling is that the truck ran great with the stock plate full forward, but the EGT's where hard to control pulling a heavy trailer. So I changed some things to help the problem (i. e. Mega-Cannon, #11, and I figured while I'm at it I would throw the GSK, valve springs and a pac brake at it) and it just made the truck slower overall. What do ya'll think???

 

[SEmerson]

If it idles slower then your govenor springs where probly set to lose. This will also pull the fuel back some. Other than that the lever may be off a little.

 

[Bob V]

Mine did the same thing when I put in the 3000 GSK. When a GSK is added to a truck it will change the "fuel curve". Now you have to be at a higher RPM to get the same fuel. I could easy get 1400+ egt's before the GSK, after I had to be on it hard for a while to get the same EGT's. I switched to the #10 plate, it is a better match with the GSK kit, But it will get hotter than the 11.

Bob V

 

[JJW_ND]

#10 ir 4 are best with GSK kits

I have the 10 but have heard good things with the #4 and GSK kits. Govenor lever adjustments are not near a factor with the #10 as there is not really a nose to catch on. Low end power is slight less with GSK (you get it all back and thensome with #10). Idle bounce must be a 215 pump thing. I have the same.



The other thing to try is on the back of the AFC remove the cover to expose the No load idle adjustment. Give this a turn tighter (in) to put a little more tension on the AFC. Also, the position of the AFC makes a big difference. I find 3/4 forward best for me.



jjw

ND

 

[BCriste]

Where should the governor lever contact the #11 plate??

Where should the governor lever contact the #11 plate?? I've read Piers "secret lever adjustment. I'm just not sure where on that plate is the best position. The AFC housing position is full forward and the star wheel is adjusted as Piers suggested. I was told to start off in second gear and romp on it (which is fun anyway) and I should adjust it to provide a cloud of smoke about the size of an 8' truck bed. Guys, the truck is driving fine, but this is driving me nuts. Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the #11 plate full forward as a fuel enhancement's and a straight pipe and AFE Mega-Cannon as air enhancement I should be able to get the EGT's up close to 1250 or so on a hard pull. I can't get them over 1100 unless the RPM's are above 2900????? Help, I'm going to pull my hair out. Should I try to tighten the Governor springs? If so, can I tighten them from the top with the plate and the AFC housing removed? Thanks again.



Brian



Oh' by the way, I believe the #10 is out of the question due to lot's of towing with an occasional driver that can't watch the EGT's.

 

[TWeir]

Brian,



I have had the 3000 GS and a # 11 for some time now and I can push the EGT's to 1600* if I start out in 2nd and run the gears hard to 5th never letting off. I pull a 21' boat weighing in at around 6000# and can run most any hills faster thin I want to drive. I hold the EGT's around 1100* on long hills, 5th gear, with the right foot. It will go higher if I let it. I had no major changes or problems when I install the GS. I followed Pier's instructions to the letter when I installed the springs, and I saw no change in idle speed . I have however, moved the govenor lever adjustment to ride higher up the plate. You will need to experiment here to get what you like. I should eventually move it back down just a little to lessen EGT's and smoke, but for now I like the feel and I controll the right foot. I do not have the #11 all the way forward although it is close to it.



Terry

 

[BCriste]

Thanks for the replies guys.....

Thanks for the replies guys. The other thing that seems strange is that the gas pedal appears to use 90% of its go power in the first 1/4 of the pedal travel. The last 3/4 of pedal appears to only have minimal response. The truck in stock form always seemed to be more responsive on the beginning of the pedal than the last part of the but was noticeably less responsive on the last portion of the pedal travel after the bombing.



Brian

 

[nfox]

Power

I might suggest having someone push the accel pdeal to the floor and make sure it is opening the linkage on the injection pump all of the way, i had this problem even after the throttle cable recall was done, i ended up having to install a couple of zip ties on the throttle cable in the cab by the gas pedal, and then i could get WOT!! Oo.

 

[1dslram]

Your stock injectors can't flow enough fuel to keep the engine pulling above 2,000 add a set of 370"s or Diesel Dynamics stage 3 injectors and your truck will run like a jack rabbit and you will be able to melt down the engine with high EGT's if you want. You can only push so much fuel through a small hole you need a larger set of injectors.

Bruce

 

[JohnE]

1dslram;

I don't agree with your comments. BCriste has a manual which means 215 injectors plus a stock pump that is 3x the pump that comes in automatic trucks. Fuel delivery capability should not be an issue here. Fuel delivery timing is the problem.



BCriste;

I agree with TWeir as your description says the governor lever needs adjustment. It should ride high on the plate and just below the nose into the main fueling curve. that will give you more lower rpm kick.

Personally, I really thing you need a plate change. The engine rpm range from the GSK versus the fuel curve of a #11 are an OK combination, but there is better. Bob V and JJW both stated the same when they talked about a #10 plate.

A #10 fuel profile better matches a governor spring. It will run really hot unless you keep the plate back (yes they will work there) and use good AFC settings for smoke control.

Another option is to add a valet setting for the absent minded driver that doesn't watch the pyro.

 

[1dslram]

The #10 plate was designed to work with the Governor springs. BCriste said he checked the gov. arm adj. and then says where should it be. As JohnE says you want the arm to contact the plate at or very slightly below the nose on the plate. Take out the plate and you can see how far up the plate the arm is sliding. It is probably catching on the nose and not following the fuel curve. That is swhy you are getting no responce above 3/4 throttle. We must rember that adding more fule without the air supply needed will give us no responce and only higher EGT's.



JohnE as you say the pump is not the issue the gov. arm adj. and the injectors are the issue. There must be someone in his area that can help with the adjustments needed.

Bruce

 

[JJW_ND]

Now having both dynod (#11 & #10)

Post GSK with the #11 I had better power down low (below 1800... no sapose to drive there anyway). I did my first dyno runs then and was at 340hp and jsut short of 800 ft lbs. After 3 GSK I lost 100 foot lbs torque, HP stayed about the same.



The #11 is pretty touch with the GSK because it has a big nose. The position of the AFC housing really can effect this. I once slide my AFC back and ended up with no boost (power) until 2200 and then a instant kick (not fun to drive).



The #10 is a much more forgiving with govn lever adjustment. I would guess it rarely needs any adjustment.



I have the #10 in the exact position as the #11 was or about 2/3 forward. I also keep the AFC 3/4 forward. . no full forward. With both plates I have had the AFC wheel turned back to almost the middle. I hate low boost smoke!



Much more low end power with the #10 and it jsut keeps building smoother then the #11 did. I still think I have a little less off idle power but not to the point I can not do no throttle starts in 2nd.



I recently added the baby springs to get the full 4K GSK setup. I also dynoed a few weeks back. HP is at 388 and torgue was 900. Both readings at or jsut over 2000 rpms.



I still have my stock 215hp injectors. Fuel is not the problem. . lack of air is!



jjw

ND