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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12v head removal instructions.

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Compression Testing

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I tried to search for this, but nothing came up. Is there any instructions for removing 12v head in a 98 12v? Anything I should look out for?
 
Take your time and get a cherry picker if you can, it helps a bunch, especially when reinstalling the head. Helps keep the head from damaging the new headgasket

Ryan
 
Joe G. said:
How much does the head on a 12 valve weigh? I've never had mine off.

I think it weighs in the neighborhood of about 140lbs. It's a heavy SOB. When I had my Peirs head shipped to my work I needed another hand to help me lift it out to the trunk of the rental car. Was able to unload it myself but almost broke my back in the process.



Yeah, take your time, inspect everything and make sure everything is clean and dry upon re-install(of course re-lube your push rods and rockers upon re-install :) ). If your going to re-use the original head, definately have it decked at a reputable machine shop as they typically warp really good and won't seal the new gasket well without it. You may also want to check your oil cooler on the side of the block that mounts the oil filter. They can crack and cause oil water mixture resmbling a cylinder head leak. Mine was not cracked but it was worth the inspection and I got a new one for cheap insurance just in case.



Joe
 
Rear Push rods and headbolts come up through the plugs in the cowl.

I left my turbo + Manifold in place, Just unbolted.

Drain the coolant to avoid cross contamination if that hasnt happened already.

AFC line to plenum needs to get removed.

Do the rubber return line while its in the open.

Its a great time to locate true TDC and mark it on your dampner for timing and valvelash adjustments down the road.

Clean head and deck surface real well before reassembly.

Go with orings, marine headgasket, and studs so you will be done with it.

Dont beat on it until a few retourques have been done.

As mentioned unplug rear temp sensor driverside rear of head.
 
What they said. Use the cherry picker/engine hoist. I was able to pick up the head from the ground and put it into the back of a truck and into the machine shop, but probably be impossible for me to get enough leverage to lift the back end out of the doghouse while it was on the block. Almost double impossible to set it back down on the block without damaging the gasket. Very important (learn by my mistakes) make sure the push rods are properly seated in the lifter and not on the edge or you will bend the rods when you bar the engine over to adjust the valves. Good luck, and have fun.



david
 
dtygart said:
Very important (learn by my mistakes) make sure the push rods are properly seated in the lifter and not on the edge or you will bend the rods when you bar the engine over to adjust the valves. Good luck, and have fun.



david

Definately important. Didn't happen to me but I got all the info on re-installing pushrods as I could. Good thing to know, coat the tips with engine assembly lube and when installing them you'll feel them "stick" into the lifter. Once they are seated in the lifter you can just lift them out of the lifter seat and again feel the ball end "stick" in there to be sure they are properly seated.



Joe
 
Don't forget to take the injectors out of the head before you start unbolting it. The nuts are 15/16".



If you have over 200k miles, get a valve job done by a shop that knows diesels.



Vaughn
 
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