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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12v lift pump dead after fuel filter install?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Pressure test

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Truck won't start.

Changed fuel filter Sunday.

Pumped primer button 100 times would not start.

Tried another 50 times would not start.

Took fuel filter off to fill with Diesel conditioner and fuel filter was empty, so I went ahead and filled with conditioner and still will not start.

Cracked bleed bolt and very minute amount of fuel come out.

Cracked a fule injector line and no fuel either.

Fuel solenoid is lifting.

Truck batteries are dead, so I have them charging now since last night at my parents house. I will go back up Wed. to tackle again.

Seems lift pump is dead, any other suggestion?
 
Joe's right, be sure the filter and fuel heater are on correctly so you don't have an air leak. If you can't pull a vacuum you'll never get fuel.



-Scott
 
I've changed the filter on mine 3 times since I bought it and even if I leave the filter mostly empty my truck fires off instantly :confused: It stumbled slightly for a second was all.



Vaughn
 
If the filter is full and I have the bleed screw cracked, would'nt it pump fuel out the bleeder? I did make sure that all the old gaskets were off.

I must be missing something, why when I had pumped the primer 150times the filter was empty?

Thanks
 
My previous comments came from an experience where the fuel heater fell off and was dangling from the power wires where I didn't see it when I screwed on the filter. Didn't prime so good with a 1/2" gap above the filter :rolleyes:



I've seen one of the old style lift pumps that had the pump lever (before they used a push button) broke loose. I don't see how that could be the case here.



-Scott
 
I fill the filter first. Then open the bleeder screw and prime until fuel comes out, not just bubbles but a flow. Then I loosen the overflow valve and prime until fuel comes out there. Tighten, and it should start pretty quickly.
 
If you are using the primer and getting nothing out of any open bleed orfice, it sure sounds like a dead LP to me. "bighammer" also found his dead LP the same way.



NAPA has them for around $135. Cummins here was $160. Same Carter pump just more money at Cummins. If you need a PN for NAPA just let me know.
 
i have read on here before that ih dealers have them. they are about $100. you will have to remove a fitting off your old l/p to put on the new one.
 
Hoping I was wrong

Cooker,

I feel the same way. But was not sure.

I was hoping someone could explain it

some other way in my Favor. ha ha

Just can't understand the bad timing thing

as far as changing the filter and the lift pump is dead.
 
It was dead before you changed the filter. You just didn't know it because the P pump kept pulling the fuel through.



With your 1996 the case LP will not work for you. The fittings are not interchangeable.
 
I wonder?

I have noticed that once in awhile, if I gouge it.

That once transmission is locked up. I get a "miss".

I was trying to figure if it was transmission shudder or fuel leak etc.

This may be that issue. LP not doing its thing.
 
BGDUMMY said:
I have noticed that once in awhile, if I gouge it.

That once transmission is locked up. I get a "miss".

I was trying to figure if it was transmission shudder or fuel leak etc.

This may be that issue. LP not doing its thing.





Oh boy... I'm chasing the same problem and am thinking that the LP might be weak (everything else has been changed). Mine misses after lockup at light throttle going up hill...



I'd double check that the filter doesn't have 2 gaskets (both inner & outer) first.
 
I had the same problem on sunday, except I couldnt find the primer on my 98. I just turned the key on and off, cranked it quite a few times, cracked 3 injector lines, and the bleeder screw. I did not pre-fill the filter first. Where is the primer at on a 98? Where is the lift pump at?
 
changed mine on saturday. filled filter, pushed primer button several times, and cracked three injector lines while my girlfriend cranked the motor over and it fired right up. dont know if it was necessary for the motor to be cranked over while i cracked the line however.
 
pwerwagn,

Go to the First Time Cummins Diesel Owners forum and click the sticky marked "where everything is at".

Picture of 24V & 12V with everything ID-ed. Good thing to print out for a reference.



crabman :)
 
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You don't have to crack injector lines to start a 12 valve. If you get fuel to the P7100 it will start it. Lots of rock and roll until all the lines purge them selves.
 
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