Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 12v vs. 24v- which should I buy? pros/cons

[CWeaver]

I'm looking to by my first Dodge Cummins truck. My budget is 9-13,000.

I've been looking at just 12v trucks up to now, but I'm finding alot of 24v trucks newer and cheaper. Should I stick with the 12v or go 24v? I know the 98'/99' 24v trucks had IP issues but are there other problems.

I'm specifically looking for a long bed quad cab single rear wheel 2500 or 3500?

If you had it to do again- which would you buy and why?



On a related note- 4x4 or 2wd per I'm near Wilwaukee, WI ?

- Hayduke

 

[darkhorse]

My pick would be 2001. 5 (rear disc brakes) or 2002. The lift pump is the biggest issue. These beasts are quite front heavy so with the snow you can expect 4x4 makes a lot of sense. I couldn't get by with 2 wc.

 

[johncameron]

You can get by with a 2X4 if you don't live in a hilly area or have a steep driveway. I've been doing it since 2000 when I get my truck. The key is great tires AKA Bridestone Blizzaks W965.

If I did it over again I'd get a 4X4.....

Oh if you tow in the winter don't even consider a 2X4. .

 

[jkidd]

easy power = 24v
power adjustability = 24v
quietness= 12v
replacing $1500 injection pump every ~120k = 24v
vegetable oil conversion = 12v
High horsepower= 12v have the edge, cheaper/easier to get to 500hp in a 24v from my understanding, going higher than that a 12v is probably better.
fuel mpg= 12v by about 0. 5mpg (my estimate feel free to correct me. )
stock power= 24v (slight edge. )

I like 12v, but more selection in the 24v around here.

 

[RDMueller]

I was initially looking for a 12V, but ended up buying a 24V. I found that there weren't very many 12V's to choose from and to actually find one that met my various criteria was going to be next to impossible. I then decided to research the 24V's. The lift pump, VP44 and 53 block all were major concerns. I finally decided that I would avoid the 53 block but that the other issues would be workable.

I ended up with an 01. 5 and I'm very happy with it. I will be replacing the lift pump with a FASS or Airdog and if I have to replace the VP44, it won't be the end of the world. If you're going to get a 2nd gen 24V, I would recommend an 01. 5 or 02.

 

[V-Metalworx]

I've owned both first 95 12V-5spd 4wd std cab it was all stock I never did get a chance to mod it someone blew a stop sign and t-bonend me now my truck is a Y2k 4wd qq 6spd this one I've done everything from rebuild the transmission to rebuilding the entire engine last fall as far as less hassel and problems I would recomend the 12V the only down fall is if you start moding it you don't have controll over fuel and timeing on the fly like you do the 24V as long as you keep a good lift pump system on a 24V you shouldn't have VP pump problems If you are going for cheap and dependable go 12V the only thing I don't like a bought the early 12V is the interier if you are lucky enough to find a 98 12V they have the nice interier with the 12V engine I guess the 12V would be the cheaper route because once you start adding boxes and programers to 24V you get the bug and can't stop buying and want to try everything that will plug in and bolt on :-laf good luck

 

[timbo]

I was initially looking for a 12V, but ended up buying a 24V. I found that there weren't very many 12V's to choose from and to actually find one that met my various criteria was going to be next to impossible. I then decided to research the 24V's. The lift pump, VP44 and 53 block all were major concerns. I finally decided that I would avoid the 53 block but that the other issues would be workable.



I ended up with an 01. 5 and I'm very happy with it. I will be replacing the lift pump with a FASS or Airdog and if I have to replace the VP44, it won't be the end of the world. If you're going to get a 2nd gen 24V, I would recommend an 01. 5 or 02.

This is exactly how it happened for me!!!!! I like my 01. 5 brakes are great! I really like 12Vs I drive a 96 alot at work to. So good luck on making that chioce. 12v or 01. 5-02 would be my choice.

 

[DSeamans]

I never knew the 01. 5 difference was the discs. I ordered mine in Sept of 00 and it came with rr disc. I have never kept a truck more than two years before this. Going on 8 years and 200,000 miles and I still love it and Can't get over the easily added power.

 

[mhenon]

... . Oh if you tow in the winter don't even consider a 2X4. .

Have to agree with you there. My 2wd is absolutely useless in snow/mud without a load in the bed. Aggressive tires would help too but I'm running street tread.

Just something to keep in mind when making your selection.

Mike

 

[16919]

mine is for sale just fyi.....

 

[CWeaver]

Thanks everyone- so far it sounds like the 98 12V 4WD is my best bet.
I've seen some for sale semi locally: two Similar trucks- 98 2500 12v quad cab 4x4- one with 195K miles for $7k and a similar truck with 105K miles for $14k.

Should I be concerned about the miles or go cheap & what should I look for or look out for?

-Thanks for your input !!!! -Hayduke

JamesThomas- how much are you asking for your truck & is it listed somewhere I can view it?

 

[16919]

CWeaver you have a PM. I will take pics this week.

 

[Soot4Life]

I'm on dirt/sand roads most of the year and mud all winter on a horse ranch. With M/S tires and ten 80lb. sand bags in the bed over the axle traction is no problem.

 

[strehl]

I think theres a nice 12v for sale in lannon. If I remember correctly it was QC, 4wd, and possibly a 98. I haven't paid to much attention to it lately. Hopefully I'll remember and I'll take that way home from work tonight and see if its still there. It looks to be in good shape for a wisconsin vehicle.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

24v may be "easier" to get power out of by stacking boxes and programmers, but you still have to BUY those things...



a 12v you can make killer power w/ a set of injectors and a GSK. The rest of the fuel is already in the pump... just gotta tweak it out



12v reliability can't be beat, 12v power can't be beat, 12v can't be beat!

 

[CWeaver]

Thanks Guys,
I went with the 12V. got a 1996 2500, 5 speed,354 gears, fuel plate, trailer special. Now to prep for winter & work out the scary pull to the left when i brake hard... ... ... ...

 

[Dfuruness]

Just buy both... I did. Lots of fun with the 12 and 24 valve.

 

[BSander]

'95 club cab 4WD 5spd. 12V No problems, ever. Nothing. Just added diesel, changed the oil. fourteen years later still a very dependable, solid truck.



99 Quad cab 2wd. 24V. Lift pumps, injectoin pumps (installed FASS), ABS sensors, torque converter locking and unlocking (fixed with the suncoast PDF rewire) Cruse control failure, cab creeks and squeeks, transmission slips when first started, rear axle leaks, rear window leaks in the rain, 53 block, etc, etc, etc. Still afraid of walking home. 24V has more bells and whistles, but prone to MANY problems. 12V is very simple, and VERY reliable.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

yup, I don't want to jinx myself, but I've NEVER been stranded by my 12v trucks

 

[PRout]

Had I known better when buying my new 2000 24v, I would have saved some cash and gone for a clean 98 12v. They just seem more reliable to me, and not so electronically dependant.

There are well known fixes for their inherent bugs.

Not saying 24v 2nd gen is bad but they have a way of quitting without warning and mine did me in death valley once. Fortunately I wasnt stranded, but the APPS that failed cost 380. 00 at the dealer, and lasted about 2 yrs.