Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12v vs. 24v- which should I buy? pros/cons

[CWeaver]

I'm looking to by my first Dodge Cummins truck. My budget is 9-13,000.

I've been looking at just 12v trucks up to now, but I'm finding alot of 24v trucks newer and cheaper. Should I stick with the 12v or go 24v? I know the 98'/99' 24v trucks had IP issues but are there other problems.

I'm specifically looking for a long bed quad cab single rear wheel 2500 or 3500?

If you had it to do again- which would you buy and why?



I'm going to daily drive it, sometimes pull a car trailer/jeep & a boat.



On a related note- 4x4 or 2wd per I'm near Wilwaukee, WI ?

- Hayduke

 

[JHenry]

I have an '06 2500 Dodge Cummins that I bought new. Last fall I bought a '98 12v with 127k with Cummins/Auto trans. I made it my snow plow truck, but I enjoy it so much I am using it for my every day driver, trying also to minimize the miles on the '06. The '98 is a great truck and the 12v is a a great engine. I added a #5 fuel plate, AFE stage 2, 4" straight pipe MBRP exhaust, 3 disc torque conv. , and BD valve body. I'm considering a 3k gov. spiring kit. The 12 valve allows such a large range of modifications. That's probably why there are more 24v for less money.

 

[fox]

My first Cummins was in a 95 dodge 2500. I sold it and bought this 02 new.

I liked both, but the 95 was more dependable. I wish I still had it. It also got better mileage.

 

[KDHannink]

I wouldn't get anything but a 12v 5spd 4x4, you never regret getting it, even if it costs a little more for a nice one. What's the point of spending almost as much but not getting what you want?

 

[pwerwagn]

In my opinion, there are no advantages to a 24V over a 12V. the only draw back (for me anyways) is quad cabs are harder to find along with shortbeds.

I have no desire to ever own a VP pumped truck.



--Jeff

 

[bigdaddydieseldan]

12 valves are so much easier to work on no computer bs and the p7100 injection pump is far superior then the vp 44 that comes with the 24 valve

 

[surfbeetle]

In 1990 my dad bought a first gen 12v. In 1995 I bought my 2500 12v. In 1999 my sister bought a 24v. Both the 1990 and 1995 have more than double the miles of the 1999, yet the 1999 has cost more money to maintain. The injection pump failed last summer outside of Winnemucca Nevada. It cost them 400 to get towed into town and then another 3k to repair the pump. As long as the 12v has had the KDP issue taken care of, there's not a whole lot to worry about.

 

[EKlem]

Here are the advantages that I can think of

12V- More reliable injection pump, no electronics, better lift pump, quieter, easy to modify.

24V- Slightly more power stock, ability to be chipped, rear doors on quad cabs, rear discs(not a problem for all 12vers).

One thing to keep in mind is age. Depending on where you are looking at a truck, age can be an important factor or not a big deal. The thing that wears out on these is the body and interior so look at these. An older truck is more likely to have rust issues which can be very expensive.

Personally, I like the 12 valve since I don't trust the VP44 and all of the electronics associated with it.

 

[CCiatteo]

I can only compare my truck against my buddies 01, both 2500 4x4's. Mine is 5sp and his is auto. I love his interior and the quad cab doors that open. I don't like his automatic (stock as far as I know) at all. His truck stops better (rear discs). I think my 12v sounds better (he call's it a cement mixer??) and is void of all the fuel pump issues/electronics. Just good old mechanical injection. Sometimes simple is good.



All things considered, I'd get a stock 12v if you can find one and it should serve you a good long time.

 

[JHenry]

My '98 12 v has opening rear doors on both sides of the quad cab.
My only regret is it is the 8' box. I really wanted the short box.

 

[JBrookshire]

12 valve all the way.

I would'ent own any thing else other than a 12 valve. If u look at the price like u said, what is holding there value???? Yea a 12 valve. It is sad u can buy a 24 valve that is 4-5 years newer for less than 12 valves. Plus most 24 valves have crack block issues to.

 

[Headshot zod]

You can probably get better mpg out of a 12v and there aren't any computers running it. But most people here haven't started complaining about the price of fuel yet. :-laf

 

[Missouri Mule]

12 valvels are low maintenance compared to the 24 valves. On 12 valves the kpd has to be fixed so it won't come out and the rubber fuel lines have to replaced (with marine hose rated for diesel).



On 24 valves the lift pump goes out taking the vp44 injection pump with it. ECM's can take a dump. These are $$$$$

Of course there are fass and air dog ... fuel pumps out their that you install instead of the oem lift pump.

There are reliable remanned vp44s.

With close to a 150,000 on my Freightliner it hasn't had problems with either.

 

[16919]

Mine is for sale if you are looking...

 

[BSmart]

My Dad was the original owner of a '96 extended cab 12 valve 5 speed 2 wheel drive with positraction 3. 54 gears, long box with a canopy. He drove it from Seattle to Florida and all points in-between and to Alaska several times. He would always say he would rather have it than a newer one with computer electronics. I sold it to a gentleman in Idaho that was tickled pink to get it. It would pull down an honest 22-23 mpg on the freeway. I had my heart set on an 03 HO with all the bells and whistles or I'd still have it. I'd vote for a 12 valve for you.

 

[KnightR]

I like my 98 and the 12v it is running. No offense even tho I'm a cowboy I hate looking at big belt buckles. Sorry again folks the 2003 and forward are just butt ugly. I'm just a old fart who faints everytime I see a 57 chevy, and pukes when he walks out in the garage and sees his wifes new VW.

 

[JacobsonD]

I'd vote for the 12V. About a year ago I bought my 12V with 116,000 miles on it from the widow of the previous owner. He had kept it meticulous and had recorded all the maintenance.



I bought it because my wife and I bought a 7500 pound travel trailer, and I didn't trust my F-150 to handle the trailer. Anyway, we towed our camper around all last summer for 5000 miles getting around 15 mpg loaded with the camper in the Cascades and Sierras on a stock motor.



At the end of the trip in late August, we started hearing a loud exhaust thump and an occassional rattling of the valves. It eventually got pretty bad. We made it to a retired Cummins mechanic who came highly recommended.



It turned out that the previous owner had completely screwed up the valves. He put in the 60lb exhaust valve springs for the Pac Brake in September of 1998 at 7,400 miles. He adjusted the valves again at 39,000 miles and 88,000. Somewhere in one of those adjustments he screwed up the #2 cylinder so bad that the bottom of the exhaust valve pushrod literally disintegrated. The lifter then disintegrated and the lobe on the cam was ground off. Not good.



Anyway, my point is that the 12V engine is really bullet proof even when someone screws it up. The motor got us all the way to a mechanic on five cylinders while towing our trailer. I was lucky to get the cam replaced with a slightly used 215 cam and two new lifters and pushrods for a great price. I also got a new fuel plate in the deal.



After the repairs, we got 18. 5mpg towing the camper at 60 - 62 mph on the freeway. I routinely get 21. 5 to 22mpg unloaded.

 

[K5IP]

I too like the 12V. I know they hold their value better, but there are reasons for that. .

Rog

 

[WFyfe]

My old 2001 sure did a lot better in the winter time, cold start wise,less white smoke, 3 cyl high idle and it also made more engine heat when driving. So when your traveling in 20 below weather it still actually made cab heat, my 12v goes cold inside. My 12v exhaust stinks alot worse to and it isnt even bombed yet. The 24v have the 6 speed option also. My 2001 on 35s did better in the snow and icy road than my 1998 with stock tires.