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13k fifth wheel
- Thread starter EWalker
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Klenger beat me to it.
Your truck has a SO engine and 47RE transmission coupled with the 3:73 gears. It will pull that weight, just not as nice as a HO engine 48RE transmission and 4:10 gears. If your like most you will be wanting more power for better towing later.
Being it's a 5th wheel vs. TT the towing experience will be better. The 5th wheels just seem to tow so much nicer than a TT. It's the power that's going to disappoint you if anything does. Some get along just fine with the power and never think twice about it. All depends upon your demeaner.
Your truck has a SO engine and 47RE transmission coupled with the 3:73 gears. It will pull that weight, just not as nice as a HO engine 48RE transmission and 4:10 gears. If your like most you will be wanting more power for better towing later.
Being it's a 5th wheel vs. TT the towing experience will be better. The 5th wheels just seem to tow so much nicer than a TT. It's the power that's going to disappoint you if anything does. Some get along just fine with the power and never think twice about it. All depends upon your demeaner.
It will pull it just fine. Not legal, but you have plenty of engine. Keep in mind that fifth wheels tend to be a bit heavy, so you may be close to the maximum axle weight. For sure you will be over on the GVWR and GCVWR.
I used to pull the same load with a SRW 2500 with an auto. It did OK, but I felt uncomfortable being so close to the rear axle weight rating that I bought a dually. Now, I don't worry any more.
I do a 13k 5er, my . 02
Disc brakes on the 5er - stopping it
Exhaust brake on the CTD
I changed my 3. 54 to 4. 10 and it was significant - starting it
My dd2"s seem to have enough pull with the SMARTY
Rebuild the transmission DTT / ATS / etc / etc and have them rebuild it for towing and get the (Smart Commander for DTT) you can lockup 2nd
If 2nd gen you should rebuild the fuel delivery to the VP44 and back to the tank. (towing uphill at max power 2nd gear 20 mph and seeing the fp start to fall is not the time to think about not enough fuel)
I went with to big a turbo and am going to downsize the KSB1-B. If you change your turbo KNOW what you are doing, I guessed - not good
1300 - 2000 rpm becomes your operating range
Make sure your xx foot long rv will go where you want to go and not be too long. Maybe a little shorter (and lighter) would be good.
Bob Weis
Disc brakes on the 5er - stopping it
Exhaust brake on the CTD
I changed my 3. 54 to 4. 10 and it was significant - starting it
My dd2"s seem to have enough pull with the SMARTY
Rebuild the transmission DTT / ATS / etc / etc and have them rebuild it for towing and get the (Smart Commander for DTT) you can lockup 2nd
If 2nd gen you should rebuild the fuel delivery to the VP44 and back to the tank. (towing uphill at max power 2nd gear 20 mph and seeing the fp start to fall is not the time to think about not enough fuel)
I went with to big a turbo and am going to downsize the KSB1-B. If you change your turbo KNOW what you are doing, I guessed - not good
1300 - 2000 rpm becomes your operating range
Make sure your xx foot long rv will go where you want to go and not be too long. Maybe a little shorter (and lighter) would be good.
Bob Weis
Are you guys sure he is over GCVWR with a 13k trailer? The truck wieghs around 7k, + the 13k is 20k and that is under. Do you really think he will add over 2000lbs of additional stuff? This assumes the GCVWR is 22k, because I don't recall exactly what it is on that truck.
Pulling the fifth wheel vs a TT is going to be night and day. Th 5'er will be much easier, much more comfortable to pull even if the wieght is higher.
As long as you aren't in a big hurry, you have enough power. Even the third gen SO is a pretty powerful engine and at 20-22k total the trans should be OK.
Pulling the fifth wheel vs a TT is going to be night and day. Th 5'er will be much easier, much more comfortable to pull even if the wieght is higher.
As long as you aren't in a big hurry, you have enough power. Even the third gen SO is a pretty powerful engine and at 20-22k total the trans should be OK.
:{Yes these trucks ain't light. I have a SB 2500 Q cab 4X4 that hit the scales unloaded except for 5er hitch and it weighted 7260.
My 2500 with me, wife, 4y/o daughter, full fuel, and 18k Superglide 5er hitch scales at appx. 7,800 lbs. The GCWR for a 2500 is 20k, so that leaves 12,200 for the trailer. I would not be as concerned about that number as I would payload. The GVWR of the 2500 is 9k, so that only leaves 1,200lbs for pin weight. Pin weight of a 13k 5er should be at least 2k (empty), and most likely around 2,500lbs, so payload is not even close.
Add airbags to the 2500 and it would be reasonable to compare to the 3500 SRW ratings of 9. 9k GVWR and 23k GCWR, but that would only net appx. 900 more lbs of payload, but that would put things inline with a 5er pin weight of 2k or so.
Of course, the above doesn't cover the axle and tire ratings which also needs to be addressed, and would probably be the most important to consider for safety reasons (i. e. rear tire blowout on a SRW due to overloading). I personally don't have a problem slightly exceeding the payload, but draw the line at overloading the tires or axle due to safety concerns for my family and others.
Add airbags to the 2500 and it would be reasonable to compare to the 3500 SRW ratings of 9. 9k GVWR and 23k GCWR, but that would only net appx. 900 more lbs of payload, but that would put things inline with a 5er pin weight of 2k or so.
Of course, the above doesn't cover the axle and tire ratings which also needs to be addressed, and would probably be the most important to consider for safety reasons (i. e. rear tire blowout on a SRW due to overloading). I personally don't have a problem slightly exceeding the payload, but draw the line at overloading the tires or axle due to safety concerns for my family and others.
Two things already covered but worth repeating... plus one more that you just mentioned...
You will probably be at or above the tire ratings on your rear axle, regardless of ANY numbers you read on ANY sticker. Scale your truck, with the trailer as heavy as you expect to load it. Don't ignore what you might put in the cab (wife, kids too) or the bed, now or in the future. Don't forget your fuel and water tanks either. The rear axle is the most important weight you want to find out, and fully loaded, it will probably surprise you. 15-20% is a typical/good weight on the kingpin and with forward mounted generators, etc. in toy haulers they get heavy up front even empty... Oddly enough, a 14K tri-axle would actually be easier on your truck than a 10-12K two-axle (better brakes + lower % on the pin). Your new trailer should be pushing 2K on the pin. Everyone thinks their brakes are fine until they really have to stop fast. Never forget that, especially in corners and/or bad weather. My rule - no matter how good my brakes are... they still suck. Works great.
Remember that your TT would be likely to "drag" if it started sliding behind you but the 5th wheel will "drive" the truck if either the truck or trailer slides. If you overload the brakes on a TT it's no big deal (I guess) but the same mistake on a heavy 5th wheel trlr can be disasterous. Don't max out the controller and pre-train yourself to "release and steer" instead of "brake and wait"...
You gotta do what you gotta do, right? First and foremost you want to be as aware as possible of what limits you are pushing or exceeding. Keep all tires properly inflated... use the tire sidewall NOT the door sticker and check them when they are, in fact, cold and NEITHER is or has been in the sun. Mornings are best.
Next, get air bags. Not to increase your weight capacity. Ignore all that stuff as it is meaningless. The air bags are to keep your truck level. Find a good place to measure and record a reference height at the rear of the truck, carry a tape measure (always) and reproduce that height with the air bags when you are hooked up to the trailer. This will dramatically improve the handling of your truck, especially with a short wheel base. The bags will pay for themselves in fuel and reduced tire wear anyway. They are a no-brainer. If you can find one, adding or upgrading your rear sway bar will add even more stability. Addco and/or Helwig make them for most trucks. Finally, consider the best rear shocks you can find/afford. They also make a big difference in handling w/trailer and are often ignored.
Every time someone with a dually says "well, my truck only sinks "this much" with a trailer... " I say "well, that's too much... "
$40-60K truck, $25-50K trailer, $15K "stuff" in the trailer...
to broke (proud or lazy) to spend $0. 3K on air bags???
still rich enough to be happy w/60K vs. 110-120K on tires???
U-Joints, tie-rod ends, ball joints, bearings... all will last longer.
Headlights stay level... but won't last longer, sorry.
Last but not least is whether or not you really need that slider. Transport companies won't hire short beds, with or without sliders because... guess what... people still hit the cab with the trailer. Many (most???) people with sliders rarely (if ever) use them, even when they need them. They are expensive, HEAVY, more complicated and less adjustable. You also get more things that can fail and more "play" in the mount. I'm sure there are nice ones out there, especially the "automatic" ones but it is by no means a "neccesary" item. You can sell a std hitch at a minimal loss if you change your mind later but it's hard to move used, expensive hitches... different market.
Guess I'd make a lousy salesman.
You will probably be at or above the tire ratings on your rear axle, regardless of ANY numbers you read on ANY sticker. Scale your truck, with the trailer as heavy as you expect to load it. Don't ignore what you might put in the cab (wife, kids too) or the bed, now or in the future. Don't forget your fuel and water tanks either. The rear axle is the most important weight you want to find out, and fully loaded, it will probably surprise you. 15-20% is a typical/good weight on the kingpin and with forward mounted generators, etc. in toy haulers they get heavy up front even empty... Oddly enough, a 14K tri-axle would actually be easier on your truck than a 10-12K two-axle (better brakes + lower % on the pin). Your new trailer should be pushing 2K on the pin. Everyone thinks their brakes are fine until they really have to stop fast. Never forget that, especially in corners and/or bad weather. My rule - no matter how good my brakes are... they still suck. Works great.
Remember that your TT would be likely to "drag" if it started sliding behind you but the 5th wheel will "drive" the truck if either the truck or trailer slides. If you overload the brakes on a TT it's no big deal (I guess) but the same mistake on a heavy 5th wheel trlr can be disasterous. Don't max out the controller and pre-train yourself to "release and steer" instead of "brake and wait"...
You gotta do what you gotta do, right? First and foremost you want to be as aware as possible of what limits you are pushing or exceeding. Keep all tires properly inflated... use the tire sidewall NOT the door sticker and check them when they are, in fact, cold and NEITHER is or has been in the sun. Mornings are best.
Next, get air bags. Not to increase your weight capacity. Ignore all that stuff as it is meaningless. The air bags are to keep your truck level. Find a good place to measure and record a reference height at the rear of the truck, carry a tape measure (always) and reproduce that height with the air bags when you are hooked up to the trailer. This will dramatically improve the handling of your truck, especially with a short wheel base. The bags will pay for themselves in fuel and reduced tire wear anyway. They are a no-brainer. If you can find one, adding or upgrading your rear sway bar will add even more stability. Addco and/or Helwig make them for most trucks. Finally, consider the best rear shocks you can find/afford. They also make a big difference in handling w/trailer and are often ignored.
Every time someone with a dually says "well, my truck only sinks "this much" with a trailer... " I say "well, that's too much... "
$40-60K truck, $25-50K trailer, $15K "stuff" in the trailer...
to broke (proud or lazy) to spend $0. 3K on air bags???
still rich enough to be happy w/60K vs. 110-120K on tires???
U-Joints, tie-rod ends, ball joints, bearings... all will last longer.
Headlights stay level... but won't last longer, sorry.
Last but not least is whether or not you really need that slider. Transport companies won't hire short beds, with or without sliders because... guess what... people still hit the cab with the trailer. Many (most???) people with sliders rarely (if ever) use them, even when they need them. They are expensive, HEAVY, more complicated and less adjustable. You also get more things that can fail and more "play" in the mount. I'm sure there are nice ones out there, especially the "automatic" ones but it is by no means a "neccesary" item. You can sell a std hitch at a minimal loss if you change your mind later but it's hard to move used, expensive hitches... different market.
Guess I'd make a lousy salesman.
I pull a 14k+ fifth wheel w/my 2500, I installed air bags but don't use em, with heavier tires and a jake brake. I have no problems. I go uphill at 65 which is my limit, trailer pulls like it's not there. I would not worry much about weight except for the max weight allowed by the tire mfr. they need to be upgraded (ie stock is 3195 I would opt for much more than that). I currently run Toyos with a max weight of 3750 and sleep well at nite.
I've got a 2006 28. 5 Durango by KZ. 31' Bumper to King pin, 6" lift from the factory, Lots of capacity and 2 slides, weighty though about 11K. Tows like a dream, wind in New Mexico has not been a problem. Towed a 2004 of the same modle with my 96 V-10 2500 for 30K miles with no problem. the 07. 5 just kicks butt with the new camper.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
