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16 sq cm exhaust side housing

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4500 conversion ?

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On a stock engine... will simply installing a 16 sq cm exhaust housing require some injector pump "re-tuning" to prevent a loss in MPG?



I've read all the threads on turbos in the 1st gen section (search) and see where some say to increase the settings for more fuel, which is fine.



But I also see where a couple say to decrease the AFC setting to prevent using too much fuel midrange.



I've never messed with my settings at all. So I wouldn't know how to "adjust" the AFC to get my setting just right for a smaller 16 housing. I now have a 21.



I'll stick with the 16 too. I decided against a 12 or 14 so I wouldn't have to modify my exhaust.



PS: when you modify the exhaust, where do you cut? At the turbo connection or somewhere further down. I assume the entire down pipe needs to move back... so cutting down stream from the downpipe makes sense to me. I just don't want to have to spend all day playing with the exhaust... hence my 16 choice.
 
they make NON wastegated 12cm and 14cm housings that don't require moving the DP back... If you're stock you can go to a 12 non wg... stock fueling and no gov spring or higher rpms and the 12 non wg is fine. many guys also disable the wastegate on teh 12 anyway and just set the fuel to their desired boost/egt range
 
Definitely recommend the 14 non-gated unit. I don't think you will have to make any fuel adjustments - you could... but I don't think you will need to.



I am very, very happy with my 14 w/g unit, but yes it did require mod'ing the exhaust. IIRC I concur with no exhaust mods with a non-gated unit.



- M2
 
Thanks guys! After reading practically all threads after searching under "turbo" in the titles... I think I'll go 14 sqcm non-wastegate.



My plan is ASA intake, having Scheid rebuild my H1C, straight thru Donaldson muffler for my 3" exhaust, Piers intercooler, and possible a rebuild on the VE with new injectors... since all that has 200K on it. Want to keep it pretty mild. Hope to keep the good fuel economy I get now.



Got the engine bay all in pieces right now. Did my KDP fix and tightened up all the bolts with loctite. Pulled the wiring harness out so I can really do a good cleaning. Gonna paint the exhaust manifold and drill it for EGT's while the turbo is off.



Wish I had the gauges in before these mods. But with the turbo off and getting a rebuild all at the same time... I'm not putting it all together then taking it back apart to switch over to the 14 housing.
 
got 270,000 plus on mine, all stock. they do just fine. i just got into my pump for the first time last month to do the 366. all adjustments still had the factory caps on them untouched. i would think your pump and injectors are fine for another 200K atleast, if not more.
 
you shouldn't need a pump and injectors with only 200k miles



"Need" gets to be a relative term with the prices of diesel bumping $5 or more. ;) While it is true they will run fine, freshen the pump and injectors and they definitely perform a little better, sometimes quite a bit better.



At 200k the return springs in the pump are starting to get a little weak and not doing exactly what they were designed to. Same with the injectors. Setting pop pressures makes a noticeable difference in both running and economy if they are off, and, its generally accepted that every 100k injector pop pressures need to be checked and reset if needed. :)
 
Ncostello,



Did you see any shrinkage on your exhaust manifold? Now would be the best time to go with a three piece unit;)
 
I have not noticed any problems or cracks. Appears good. I was thinking about a 3 piece unit... but figured if its still good, I would just bead blast it and coat it in some gray iron high heat paint.
 
Definately get new injectors or get your stockers cleaned and reset.

Mine after 120 K were running good... . but they had carbon deposits protruding from the holes. They could not have had an ideal spray.

New ones ran soooo much better.
 
Stock manifolds are more likely to shrink if you turn the fuel up. The higher temps don't do them any good, that's for sure. ;)

Last I knew, a PDR I/C was about $700. That's about what I paid for mine, 3 years ago. I'd go with a used Powderchoke or newer Dodge I/C. Bigger tubes and usually cheaper, if you can find a take out. :cool:
 
Seems at $80 bucks per injector for cleaning and resetting... I'll just buy new Bosch 190's from Piers for way less. This was Scheids price.



BTW... if I get a kit for my H1C... what is an expected price to have someone "rebuild" my turbo. Scheid was saying in the 300 + range after I buy the kit. Again... I'll upgrade if it gets in the same ballpark as a HX35.
 
Sheid's quot does not sound unreasoable to me.

By "kit" do you mean a standard rebuild kit (approx $90) or an upgrade kit (like a stage III, etc. )?

Just wondering.

FWIW I have rebuilt H1Cs before. They are easy.
 
With a 9 sq cm housing? :confused:



HE341 would be a nice little upgrade for driveability and modest power upgrade on a 1st gen. They are relatively decent until you start pushing a lot of fuel to them.



The HE351 is 10cm housing with a better waste gate and will take a lot more fuel to max it, it will spool quick, and cool much better in the midrange where it is needed.



If one is not going for the big power its definitely worth the price and effort. :)
 
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