Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 160,000 on factory clutch

[jnewcomer]

i have a question? trucks running good no problems. i just rolled over to 160,000 and still have the factory clutch should i be nervous or just keep going until i have problems. shifts good no rattles and i do tow occasionally ,just wondering????

 

[JRBurton]

Just wonder that myself. I have 155,000 on my truck, clutch does not slip but the nv5600 I think may be due for a rebuild as it will grind sometimes going into 3rd and 4th and then gets a little touchy down shifting into 3rd again. I do tow a few times a year, I have a 15000 # fifth wheel.

 

[NIsaacs]

There is really no telling about this. It is rare for one to leave you stranded, they will almost always start telling you of a problem. I got 210k out of my oem in my '01. It was working fine with no problems but when I pulled it down it was worn out completely.

The OP's 5spd will have a 12.3" clutch, they are a little on the weak side and might be due before the 6spd clutch, a 13".

JR, have you changed oil in your transmission lately? It might be due.

Nick

 

[JRBurton]

NIsaacs: Yes just changed oil about 5000 miles ago. Currently running amsoil I believe syncromesh and I have the fast coolers on with a little extra filled from the top.

 

[randall53]

I have 140,000 on my 01 5 speed with the original clutch. I used to travel in my work back when I first got it and pulled a 30' 5th wheel pretty regularly but not anymore. I did order it with every towing option that was available in 2001 and it's never whimpered under any load I've put on it. The clutch is still doing good with no signs of a problem, but it has been on my mind lately. I had all of the fluids changed in my truck at 100,000 miles, transmission, rear end (posi-traction), etc.....it shifts fine either up or down. I've seen some people that for some reason like to shift real fast and practically stomp on the clutch pedal punching the shift lever as they hit the pedal. I've never done that with mine, I just push the clutch in completely first before starting to shift, then just guide the shifter to the next gear and it's smooth. I think if a person starts shifting before the clutch has completely dis-engaged, they are causing undue wear on the synchronizers and can cause problems after a while. That's just my thinking here though folks. LOL.

 

[petersonj]

i just rolled over to 160,000 and still have the factory clutch should i be nervous or just keep going until i have problems. shifts good no rattles and i do tow occasionally ,just wondering????

I have a six speed with 249,000 miles on the original clutch and I have towed a travel trailer for 15,000 miles in the last six months. I don't plan on replacing the clutch any time soon - unless, of course, if a problem arises. The five speed transmission does use a smaller clutch, but also receives less input torque from the engine (460 lb/ft for the five speed and 505 lb/ft for the six speed). As someone else posted, symptoms for a failing clutch will show up long before it lets you down so I wouldn't worry.

- John

 

[jnewcomer]

when i bought the truck the salesman said to use first gear to get rolling,just made it a habit. just seamed to work. thanks for the response james

 

[GCroyle]

Guys,

Just a couple of thoughts to extend clutch service life.

IF conditions permit, select N at stop lights, and take your foot all the way off of the clutch pedal. This allows the pilot bearing to go back to sleep, no RPM difference between crank and input shaft.

Never ever rest your boot, foot, toe, flip flop or anything else on the Left pedal while driving. It just increases the preload on the release bearing and uses up the TOB earlier than later.

1st gear with any load, engine at idle, raise pedal in a smooth sweeping continous motion and the clutch has minimal time in the friction zone, doesn't make much heat at all. 2nd gear starts in a 6 spd empty at idle if you want.

Got a 4X4? Might want to use the Low range for maneuvering in off road situations with a load or trailer. Minimize friction zone use, reduces heat.

If you ever are in a situation and from a lot of friction zone time smell the clutch? Give it a break and let it cool off. That was the Skunk raising its tail just before letting go with a big one. When we had our '97 Dually RWD here at work and I towed our GN car hauler over to the Mid TN GTG at Joe's I had to spot it on softish grass/dirt. It took a few manuvers and I got a wiff.

Its a clutch not a hill holder. You need a hill holder? Buy a Subaru.

Don't loan your hand shaker truck to your Miata, Eclipse, Civic only driving buddy. He'll cook it most likely. For that matter, don't loan it to anybody, let them buy their own. I don't loan my Stihl chainsaw either.

Here's one to ponder. Look at your mileage on the clutch and try to figure out how many ENGINE revolutions it took to get to that mileage, total REV's. Your clutch release bearing TURNED every single one of those REV's with only the factory fill of a few grams of grease while you faithfully changed the engine oil every X thousand miles. That's right, ZERO clutch release bearing freeplay.

Heat is your clutches enemy. Followed by that case of beer it took your buddies to help replace it with. Any clutch needs a detailed installation. Period.

 

[petersonj]

Guys,

1st gear with any load, engine at idle, raise pedal in a smooth sweeping continous motion and the clutch has minimal time in the friction zone, doesn't make much heat at all. 2nd gear starts in a 6 spd empty at idle if you want.

Got a 4X4? Might want to use the Low range for maneuvering in off road situations with a load or trailer. Minimize friction zone use, reduces heat.

Excellent tips! I especially like these two and I use them all the time. Professional truck drivers use the first tip to get their heavy loads in motion and never use the throttle until the clutch is fully engaged.

Also, when it is time to get the load moving, to ensure my vehicle never rolls backward (or forward), I keep my foot on the brake pedal and slowly raise the clutch pedal until I hear the engine accepting the load. I then remove my foot from the brake pedal (no roll back) and continue with the clutch pedal motion until it is fully raised. I learned this technique from a commercial trucking school years ago. The concept is for the driver to always be in control of the vehicle and to minimize wear and tear on the drivetrain (heat buildup).

Anyway, your tips are well worded, easy to understand, and are very sound.

- John

 

[GCroyle]

Thanks John. Its a bit like tires, You can use them wisely or spend 'em in a weekend.

 

[SAndreasen]

So is the case of beer bad or the guys that drank it? I guess that went over my head

 

[The patriot]

Common sense treatment of your equipment. It goes a long way.
I'm still on the original, 135`ish K miles. see the sig.
My clutch had always been a high petal thing, as far back as I remember.

 

[S.Morris]

All good and correct info from Groyle.

I have changed a few hundred clutches in Class 8 trucks,(Pacific Inland Powertrain) in years passed, but never a Ram. I recently changed the clutch (with help from a friend) in my sig truck. The clutch disc itself was in pristine condition, as was the flywheel and PPsurface. The pilot was destroyed and had a grip on the input shaft that negated driving any further than the end of my driveway, where it failed. The diaphragm fingers were worn from the dry release bearing. I had intermittently heard a little release brg noise and PLANNED on doing clutch for sake of the release and pilot bearings in the FALL. I waited too long and had failure, which I am glad did not happen on the road.

IF I had a truck with 160K miles on it and could hear ANY dry bearing noise, I would be pulling it ASAP and if you are lucky, might get away with changing only pilot bearing and release bearing. (It is a big job and planning for worst case with a complete kit is most cost beneficial esp if you are paying for labour)

SBC supplies a nice kit, and the updated pilot bearing used in there flywheel is what RAM should have built it with.

JMO