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160 pump, goal 400hp

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Unbreakable Flexplate

is there a trick to driving with the ceramic clutch?

i have a similar thread in the 12 valve forum, just wanted to poke in over here as well, i have a 1995 auto, and want to achieve ~400hp it seems i will need 370 injectors, 191 DVs, a 16cm turbo housing, and a plate... .



sound right?

should i use a 10? plate or a 6? or even a 0?



truck is daily driven, and i would like >17mpg if possible. is it?



truck is mostly empty, but i may haul a john deere 5000 series from time to time, if that makes a difference,



also note: an ATS stage IV is planned in the future.







any comments? suggestions? specific parts to look at?





Thanks for any info.
 
Plate that will work is #5 for autos. Add a 4" exhaust and a bigger turbo (Hx40 or for $500 more a B1). The bigger exhaust housing won't help much at the top end with the egt's.
 
You should be able to get pretty close to that if it's set up right. I went right around 465HP with my old 12V when it still had the small pump on it. I was running a 40/16, 370's and a bunch of pump work. You will need a turbo to have 400 driveable HP. With that setup I was getting around 20-21mpg on the highway.



-Cord
 
#10 Plate, 191 DV's, 4K's, 370's, timing and an HX-40 will put you there, any plate will work regardless of the transmission, the #10 is the best overall plate voted by many, the little pumps like 191's with 370 and a tad more timing... . 16-17.



Jim
 
I would do the plate, Gov springs and timing at once, the little pump tend to pop on the top end if the timing is too low, do the 191's and 370's together then decide if you can live with the EGT's doing the foot control as they will most likely be high, then you can go to a 40, clean it up and make more usable power.



Jim
 
Originally posted by Jim Fulmer

#10 Plate, 191 DV's, 4K's, 370's, timing and an HX-40 will put you there, any plate will work regardless of the transmission, the #10 is the best overall plate voted by many, the little pumps like 191's with 370 and a tad more timing... . 16-17.



Jim

Would this be the same for a 180hp ?

I have the 3k spring's ,370's ,#10, 15. 5 timing,and I'm now considering my turbo options

40/35 hybrid with my 14 cm wastegated housing.

40 jammer with which housing?

It's a 97 4x4 with 3. 54 gears and 35" tires= tall effective gearing.

I have the full ATS trans so I'm ready for power.

thanks

SFB
 
Jim is dead on with the popping. That was a problem I had for a long time. I bounced timing around quite a bit to try and find the best spot. Basically, more timing is going to push the popping to a higher RPM (depending on how many degrees you advance). I went from 16deg to 19deg, the result was about 300RPM.



-Cord
 
You're also going to need a GSK. If your truck has miles on it (like over 125k), I'd yank the pump and send it to a vendor here like PDR. With higher miles the pumps need to go on a stand and get balanced. The plate doesn't matter at that point because a good tuner will grind you one to match your desired output.



You will need a bigger turbo to keep the EGT's down and probably at least no muffler or larger diameter pipes.



If you get the engine output up there, the trans work will come quicker that you think! :D
 
If your on a budget don't worry about balancing the pump. HP gain per dollar it won't be worth it. If your trying to soak every last HP out of the pump then it's a different story. A lot can be done with the barrels once it's on a stand but for a 400HP goal its not necessary. When my truck went 465HP with the small pump it had close to 200K on it ... ... no balancing.
 
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