1954 Ford Skyliner parts

[GAmes]

My wife had one when we met back in '67. She has talked about it for years. I found this one in OK City and surprised her with it. The body is pretty solid but it needs a lot of work otherwise. Anyone have a good source for antique Ford parts?

 

[HBarlow]

Try Hemmings Motor News magazine. Ten or so years ago lots of aftermarket companies were building parts for the popular '50s models as lots of them were being restored then.

 

[JJPage]

Nice find!



My older brother used to have a 54 Victoria, he actually found it in a junk yard in Veradale, Washington, running, without body damage. He was looking for parts for his 51 ford sedan, and he came across it.



I am not sure if memory serves me or not, but I believe he told me it was the same cubic inch, as his flat head in his 51(239ci), except it was the first year for overhead valves, and also the first year for 12 volt electrical system.



His 54 Victoria was green and white, did not have the glass in the roof, or the fender skirts. He did have a second hood that he aquired later on, that had a glass window in it.



I cannot remember exactly what happened to his old Fords, I was about 13 or 14 years old when he went off to Vietnam in 68. I am sure he would like to have them back now.



I'll bet your wife is a very pleased individual, good job! Sure stirred up some memories with the pictures, Thank you.

 

[HBarlow]

You are correct about the displacement. The last flathead V8 used in the 1953 had 239 ci, the same displacement as the 1954 which was the first ohv V8. Furd didn't introduce 12 volt power in the Furd until 1956 though. I don't think Furd used a 12 volt system in the Mercury or Lincoln until 1956 either.

Furd was, as usual, playing catch up with all the GM products. Chevy, Pontiac, Oldmobile, Buick, and Cadillac had already been using 12v since 1955 for the Chevy and Pontiac and, I think, '53 for the other GM lines.

 

[GAmes]

The second hood was really rare. Something like 100 of them were made so that dealers could showcase the new overhead valve V8. This particular car has electric windows (all four side windows) and front seat. Only one switch though. I know they will be a b*#@ to find.



I'm excited about this project and so are my grandsons. Of course, that might change quickly after a few bloody knuckles:-laf Plan on a full body off restore. I was able to prybar the engine to move a little, but I am apprehensive. There is no oil in the crankcase:{

 

[HBarlow]

Gary,

Unless you are fanatical about keeping it all original it would be much cheaper and wiser to sell the original engine for scrap and replace it with a more modern 289 or 302 or even a 351 which was the same block IIRC. Hundreds of thousands of them were used from '65 into the mid '90s in numerous Furd platforms. You could easily find a running engine complete with a later three speed automatic that would be almost a drop in installation. I have an old car club friend who did exactly that with a nice '55 Fairlane 2 door sedan. Few would know the difference just by looking at it.

The early "Y block" Furd ohv V8s had a funky valve train that never oiled very well and made lots of racket when they had a few miles on them. Owners with Y blocks with some miles on them had to install external oiling kits to supply oill to the rocker arms and shafts.

 

[GAmes]

Harvey,

I wouldn't say I'm fanatical, but I would like to keep it original, or at least easily changed back to original. I don't think it will hold as much value with a 302, but if it is a bolt in with no cutting/welding it is an option. I've built a couple customs, a stock restore would be a completely new experience for me. A lot depends on what the engine looks like when I open it up.

 

[HBarlow]

Gary,

I could arrange a visit to the friend who has a 289/302 and matching automatic from something like a '65 Furd in a '55 Furd for you too look it over next time you pass through this area. I think his installation required minimal alteration and fabrication.

It might be hard to find rebuild parts for the original Y block in your car and probably also expensive since there is very little demand for them.

The original automatic in your '54, assuming it is automatic, is a tough old Borg-Warner three speed automatic that was very durable.

 

[Bessler]

C&G Early Ford Parts

1941 Commercial St.

Escondido, Ca. 92029

760-740-2400

Ford Parts at C&G for 1932 thru 1979 Ford car and Ford truck.

Phone: (909)305-1955

108 West Bonita Avenue

San Dimas, CA 91773

Early Ford Store 0f CA - Antique Ford Parts - Original & Reproduction parts -1928-1972

Here are some starters for you not knowing what you may need.

 

[BrianJ]

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the original engine and take the easy way out of dropping a 289/302/351 in there. I personally think it would be a shame to resto-mod that beauty if there was any way to keep it all original. My FIL has restored Fords for many years, and you may be surprised to see what parts are available. My FIL has used his network of friends and swapmeets to find many parts (I am amazed at how many rare parts he finds at swap meets), but I can see what other sources he has used over the years. I know there are a couple local shops here in Denver (Sam's Vintage Ford is one) that have or have resources for parts.



His latest project is the '49 Ford Coupe pictured below, next to my '66 Stang.



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[HBarlow]

Some folks prefer keeping a vintage car strictly original and that's fine with me. Personally, I prefer modern improvements.

I own a '56 Chevy with a new Goodwrench 350 ci V8, rebuilt GM TH-700R4 overdrive automatic, 605 power steering, aftermarket front power disc brakes, and more. The car looks original but drives like a modern car without giving up reliability.

Everyone can make his or her personal choice. I like to look at the originals but they aren't much fun if you put them on the highway.

 

[BrianJ]

Agreed it's a personal decision, and mine just happens to be that if it's possible to keep a classic original, especially something like the OP's that isn't exactly seen everyday, preference should be to originality. Anyone who knows much at all about Mustangs can see that mine is modified in a few areas, but that was already out of my hands when it came into my possession and I took over the restoration. There are lots of options out there with restorations already un-original for those who want to make a resto-mod, an "original" doesn't have to be sacrificed.



As classics get more rare and parts harder to find, I just think it's a shame to take something that could be original and make a resto-mod out of it. Be it for "cool-factor" or value, I personally just like original when applicable. I have a cousin that sells 3-6 cars each year at Barrett Jackson, and "originals" bring in many times the value as those modified, even slightly so. And I have seen a lot more buzz at shows over clean originals than any modified hot rod.



Like I said at the beginning, I certainly agree its personal preference and I respect what people create with their "projects", no matter what.

 

[GAmes]

I have a cousin that sells 3-6 cars each year at Barrett Jackson, and "originals" bring in many times the value as those modified, even slightly so.

Just the person to ask what has been on my mind. Will changing the electrical system to 12 volt dramatically reduce the value of the '54?

 

[BrianJ]

Just the person to ask what has been on my mind. Will changing the electrical system to 12 volt dramatically reduce the value of the '54?

Finally got in touch with my cousin. Bottom line is it depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you plan on driving it, he wouldn't hesitate changing it over to an easier to use 12v system, with the fact that you can/should keep the original 6v system and it would be easy to change it back for saleability to someone concerned about originality.



On the other hand, if it's going to be primarily a show car, his opinion is to keep it original.



We didn't have a lot of time to talk, but the gist was for show/auction consideration keep it original, as a driver update to 12v and keep the parts.

 

[GAmes]

Thanks. My wife is chomping at the bit to drive it. So much so that she wants to turn some wrenches on it:--) It looks like I'll have to invest in numerous 12 to 6 volt reducers.

 

[NIsaacs]

I was raised on 6 volt "everything" cars, trucks and tractors. The system works. I would not change it over, one less major head ache.



Nick

 

[SMolteberg]

One might say I'm quit fanatic about keeping an old classic i original condition. For me the whole idea with the old cars are to drive them the way they where when they left the assembly line. If I want to drive a modern car I jump into my 01 Jeep of my truck. Well, in one aspect I can change a old classic if you drive it a lot, and that are radials. If you restore your car and rebuild and adjust the front end properly there is no need for that car to handle much worse than more modern cars. For owners that chose to change it out to a modern drive train and front end will just have another hot rod. I have for the moment 5 1956 Chryslers and have no problem finding parts for them, heck Rock auto can deliver a lot of the wear parts in a couple of days. For a Ford it's even more easier since there are so much repro stuff available.



Since you live in TX I can't see any reason to not keep the 6v, just have a good battery and remember to use heavier gauge cable if you have to rewire something.



For spare parts Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts would be a good choice for you, they can deliver almost anything for old Fords

 

[GAmes]

Thanks for the link. I'm still looking for an engine rebuild parts source. Every time I search Ford 239 V8, or any varience I can think of, I get flathead engine links. Rock Auto didn't go back to '54 IIRC.

 

[NIsaacs]

When you search, type in Ford 239 Y-block, you will get lotsa links.



Nick

 

[SMolteberg]

Rock Auto didn't go back to '54 IIRC.

Then you have to look again, because they list parts for Ford all the way back to 1929, and for your model they list a ton of parts. I buy all my brake parts for my 56 Chryslers from them.