1985 318 trying to modify-----NEED HELP!!!!

[BallR]

I have a 1985 Chrysler 5th ave. It has the 318 hooked up to the 3 speed 904 automatic.



I have successfully removed the old two barrell carb and manifold, I've removed the smog pump and the cats (yeah it had two, couldn't believe it) It now has a duel exhaust system. I installed an edlebrock manifold and a (model #4160) Holly 4 barrel 600cfm with vacuum secondary. i also installed a MSD blaster2 coil, and a OEM distributer with vacuum advance.



The car ran and drove.



Then the computer fried. i was told it was because of the coil. something about the system needs a certain resistance (ohms) well MSD told me that the coil i bought lowered the resistance and fried the computer.



Well i was told that i needed to purchase a Streetfire ignition box to take the place of the computer, which i did.



Now the problems hit. Everything is hooked up proper---no jerryriggin.



The car wont run.



It turns over but will not run. The voltage does drop but not to below the nesscary to run the box.



The problem is, when i remove the distributer and with the coil wire placed near a ground, i can turn the distributer staft by hand, and the coil wire sparks. when i reinstall the distributer and try and start the car, there is no spark.





ANY ideas?



new coil

new distributer

new ignition switch

new carb

new manifold

new exhaust



what gives?

 

[B.G. Smith]

Are you still using the ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? I'm not sure but I think there were two wires coming from the ignition switch to the resistor, one was hot with ign. on and the other was activated when ign. switch was in start position. If so, you may not be getting voltage to the coil when in start popsition. bg

 

[tempforce]

i did the same thing only, i replaced all of the stock ignition wiring with full 12volt.

both start and run.

i used the msd 6 ignition box using the stock magnetic pickups for the ignition timing.

i then used the msd hifire coil. which is designed for full voltage.

i advanced the base timing 4 degrees.

this was on a 360 block with 318 heads, for higher compression and better low rpm performance. also i used a 318 pre-emission cam profile. edelbrock performer 600 cfm carb and performer manifold. 727 auto, 3. 73 rear in a '83' d150

pulls very good, but burns fuel like i owned a oil rig. (9-12 mpg)

i think that when i'm finished towing, i'll put the 2. 73 gears back in. (19-21 mpg)

 

[kenny61]

Are you still using the ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? I'm not sure but I think there were two wires coming from the ignition switch to the resistor, one was hot with ign. on and the other was activated when ign. switch was in start position. If so, you may not be getting voltage to the coil when in start popsition. bg

I know the 60'2 and early 70's had the single wire ballast and the went to the double sometime in the 70's or 80's. regardless I believe BG is correct about the dual voltage to the coil. If I remember correct the circuit is wired so that it is full 12volts in the crank position and the resisted voltage when it is running. The usual symptom of a bad ballast resistor was the car would fire when cranking but die immediately when you released the key from the crank position.



You need a friend or a remote button start (momentary push button you use to jump the starter) see if you are getting spark both at the cap and plugs. Re reading this are you telling me you can turn the rotor in the distributor with your hand while it is installed in the car? If thats the case you got something wrong. the distributor aint hooked up to the camshaft... . With the cap off crank the car and see if the rotor spins

 

[BallR]

thanks

First i appreciate the input



This car doesnt have a resister, MSD guys told me where to look and i also searched the entire engine bay, nothing.



I can remove the distributer but leave every thing hooked up except for the coil wire, and then with the ignition turned on i can turn the shaft back and forth and i get spark. its when i reinstall the distributer and try to start the car the spark isn't there. and yes the motor is mechanically sound, the distributer does turn when the motor turns over.

 

[kenny61]

you need to make sure the ignition is getting power with the key in the crank position. In the older chryslers it was a separate circuit to the distributor. Im not sure about your year but at least look into it

 

[B.G. Smith]

Try this. Get you a jumper wire long enough to reach from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the ignition coil. Hook it up, try starter, if it starts you don;'t have voltage to the ignition with the ignition switch in the start position. Good luck. bg

 

[BallR]

Thanks for all the help guys..... unfortunatly I wasn't able to fix it, ended up takeing it to a shop. My truck that i was relying on until the car is fixed, broken down, so i just took the car to the shop. They had it running, but it quit, apparentlly there was something wrong with the ignition box itself. so i'll get on here and let yall know where the goes, they have a new box so..... we'll see.



truck is fine lol well it will be, fuel pump is bad I reckon. 16 years old with 150,000 on it so its about time to change out. It just up and quit on me, so i had a friend, a very, very good friend, haul it to my house( in the rain mind you). Did some checking and wasn't getting any pressure on the fuel injection rails, so i called dodge and they said to beat on the gas tank while someone cranked the truck. lol that actually worked. it ran fine all day, although i'm still going to replace the pump.



just thought yall would find that interesting.

 

[BallR]

Well looks like the shop figured out whats wrong with my car... ... . NOTHING!!!!! the blasted MSD ignition box was faulty. Way to GO MSD!!!!!! dang it! oh well, was told the car is running so i guess alls well that ends well. Now the only problem is the 904 3 speed needs a shift kit. Anyone know what i need to look for on those????