1989 Camry 2.0 auto FWD - No Spark

[JasonCzerak]

Car just up and DIED on the highway. Dollied it home. The car Manual shows how to pull codes from the computer. I got a code "12". This is and RPM single error.

Googling suggests that I replace the distributor. So I found a re-man for $150. It's dummy-proof, install went perfectly. How ever; I have the SAME RESULTS! Same error. No start.

There are 2 sets of plugs that connect to this distributor. The set with 2 wires that connect directly to the coil within the unit are hot when the key is on. So the coil has power.

The other set has 3 wires. I do not have a volt meter. All I have is a test light. So for giggles I attempt to see if any of them were hot with key on and/or during start. Not one of them lite up the light. Not to say there is no current, just not enough to power the bulb.

There is no TACH during start.

There is no fuel smell during long periods of starting in the exhaust pipe.

There is no spark.

There IS fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

No blown fuses.

Relay conditions are unknown at this time.

No cut or melted wires that I could see.

This car has a history of hard starts when warm. I chalked it up to a fuel system problem since it does in fact leak fuel from the tank if there's more than 1/2 tank.

Pulling the ground to the battery to reset the computer doesn't fix anything.


What could it be?

ECU?

Broken wire in a harness?

Relay?

I suppose the next task would be to either un-do the wire harness and follow the wires to the other end. Replace?

Or get a manual and read where they go in the ECU. Replace?

Destroy the car get her a 1st or 2nd gen?

 

[MStrain]

Check your fusible links, I have had that happen a couple times myself on different vehicles, on a Subaru Legacy and a Dodge Dakota, both times it was a fusible link. They look fine upon inspection but you should pull them out and continuity test them, they are usually in the fuse box but look bigger and have a clear plastic top, hope that that is all it is.

 

[Matt400]

I found a re-man for $150. It's dummy-proof, install went perfectly. How ever; I have the SAME RESULTS! Same error. No start.

Seen many a reman bad out of the box, you may need to send it back. In the repair industry remans and aftermarket distributor components on this model are known for troubles.

All I have is a test light. So for giggles I attempt to see if any of them were hot with key on and/or during start.

Thats a bad thing. . test lights and computers don't get along. Probing a non 12v circuit with a test lamp can cause too much of a draw to ground through the bulb and can fry the module on that circuit. You always want to use a volt meter with 10M ohm impedance.



The ECU could be bad and even though you replaced the distributor I suspect you got a bad one.

 

[OKish]

i would say check the ignition module. classic case.

 

[JasonCzerak]

timing belt

It's the timing belt that busted. This will be fun

 

[JoshPeters]

I was just going to suggest checking to see if the distributor was spinning... .

Now... Just hope it's not an interfearance engine... .

Good luck!

 

[JasonCzerak]

I was just going to suggest checking to see if the distributor was spinning... .



Now... Just hope it's not an interfearance engine... .



Good luck!

It's been far to long since I toyed with a motor to this extent. This is my first "belt driven" cam motor... . So it wasn't in the frame of mind to check for a spinning distrabutor. $150 lesson learned there, assuming I can't return the re-man distrabutor.



Folks on the camryforums.com suggest that this motor is non-interference. Up to 1995 they are non-interference according to on member's 95' camry 2. 2 liter ( i have the 2. 0 here).



If anyone wants to come help tear down this motor! free beer! I have 10 bottles of BlueMoon chilling in the fridge.

 

[Matt400]

It's the timing belt that busted. This will be fun

:-laf , well the distributor does have to turn in order to function, oh well you have a spare now and they do go bad.

Luckily the 89 2. 0 is not a valve bender. Replacement interval is recommended every 60K. If you need the timing mark diagram, I can fax it if you have a fax number just pm it to me.

 

[JasonCzerak]

:-laf , well the distributor does have to turn in order to function, oh well you have a spare now and they do go bad.

Luckily the 89 2. 0 is not a valve bender. Replacement interval is recommended every 60K. If you need the timing mark diagram, I can fax it if you have a fax number just pm it to me.

I got a chiltons. Thanks tho



Task has been completed. 6-8 hours plus putzing around town picking up hte GF from work and a long break once torn down. The timing belt was TRASHED!



Lining up the crank was simple, however the cam marks were not super apparent. there was a little mark and a indentation that I got as close as I could. However, the old distrabutor in place, lined up to the SAME oil/grease/grud marks the motor didn't run right. Sluggish. very sluggish.



so I turn all the way clockwise and the motor perked right up. Drives the same!



So I think I got the cam one or two teeth off. I think it's counter clockwise 2 teeth to far (as you face the motor). So turning the distrabutor clockwise "cought up" to the were the cam has moved it...



I'm rather tired, I may be describing this wrong.

 

[Matt400]

Lining up the crank was simple, however the cam marks were not super apparent. there was a little mark and a indentation that I got as close as I could. However, the old distrabutor in place, lined up to the SAME oil/grease/grud marks the motor didn't run right. Sluggish. very sluggish.



so I turn all the way clockwise and the motor perked right up. Drives the same!



So I think I got the cam one or two teeth off.

If memory serves me the marks are viewed on the backside, I will take a look at the shop manual when I am back at work on Monday, I think your right about it possibly being of a tooth or two.

edit

Nope. . its from the front, the camshaft oil seal has a retainer with a mark on it, the camshaft sprocket has a small hole that gets lined up with that mark while the crank is at TDC compression.

The cam may have turned when you released the idler pulley spring tension on the new belt.