1993 Rear Brakes

[ButchJ]

Looking at converting rear drum brakes to disc's, has any one done this and what brand conversion did you use?Any info or contact information sure would help. Thank-You

 

[R C Cola]

Brakes

Lots of threads and some with good writeups. As I remember BIG BUCKS and great stopping afterward. Some of the writeups had great pics, try a search it was quite a while back that I saw it.

 

[mysteryman]

You would be better off leaving the truck stock. The parking brake is better by far on the drum brake system. Be sure to buy your shoes from performance friction. They are carbon kevlar. they stop well and don't ruin the drums like most modern non asbestos shoes do

Looking at converting rear drum brakes to disc's, has any one done this and what brand conversion did you use?Any info or contact information sure would help. Thank-You

 

[pepecat]

I had terrible brakes in my 1989 but that was due to maladjusted shoes.



The 1993 stopped great. My guess is that the 1993 is on the original OEM shoes and are in proper adjustment due to it only having 55K miles. The parking brake works excellent as well. I don't see the need for disc in this case.

 

[RHestand]

I agree with mysteryman and pepecat.
From what I understand, approx. 70% of your stopping power comes from your front brakes, and 30% from the rear. Anything more than that can create a dangerous situation in a panic stop, like the truck swapping ends. Especially an empty truck, in limited traction conditions, like rain or snow.
IMO, in getting the most bang for your buck, put the big money in upgrading the fronts, then make sure your rear drum brakes are working properly with good quality, and properly adjusted brake shoes, true and round (well within thickness specs. ) brake drums, and no fluid issues inside the drums. (Like leaking axle seals. )
Ray

 

[SRadke]

I upgraded my 89 to the 3" shoes (widest factory option) with the GM wheel cylinders (1/8" larger bore than stock) and it works quite well now. I wouldn't spend the money on the conversion.

-Scott

 

[Midnite]

Scott's recommendation for the larger shoes and wheel cylinders is definitely the way to go. It's far, far cheaper and just as effective. You have two options on wheel cylinders, 1 1/8" bores or 1 3/16" bores. The 1 1/8" bore cylinders will be for the 2nd gen Dodge trucks, but work just fine on the 1st gens. The 1 3/16" bore cylinders are from mid 1990's GM 1 ton duallies, but again work just fine on the 1st gen Dodges. Some really like the large increase in braking power the 1 3/16" bores provide, but others feel that they're too much and prefer the 1 1/8" bores.

You definitely want to make sure your rears are properly adjusted right now though before doing anything else. You can easily tell if you have snow in your area because the front wheels will lock up and slide very easily, but it'll take noticeably more braking to get the rears to lock up. You want them to lock up pretty close to the same time, with the fronts just a tiny bit earlier.

Another way to tell if you don't have snow in your area is do some braking that heats up the brakes pretty good, like slow speed down a hill. Then get out of the truck and touch your front wheels--they'll most likely be too hot to hold your hand on them. Then go back and touch your rear wheels. They won't be as hot as the front wheels, but they should at least be warm. If the rear wheels feel no warmer than the rear tires, then your rear brakes are most likely not working.

Mike

 

[JLEONARD]

The 1 1/8" bore cylinders will be for the 2nd gen Dodge trucks, but work just fine on the 1st gens.

Also stock on some 1991 trucks. I had that size on mine and they were oem.

 

[mysteryman]

wheel cylinders / rear brakes

The rear brakes on the first gen trucks. (12" X 2. 5 " and 3" )are the same parts all the way back to 1972 on the D and W300 trucks. The differances

are as follows.



DRUMS,

1) 72-93 300/350 dual all used the same bell shaped drum.

A) 1st gen cummins trucks single or dual wheel use the dual drum



2) 72-92 200/250 and single wheel 300/350 , Most used a 3" wide flat faced drum. This drum was also used on the front as well in 1972 and was on all trucks that had the optional Dana 70F 4500 LB front AXLE



3) WHEEL CYL.

A) All 72-93, 1" bore used on rear of most 200/250 trucks that had a 2. 5" shoe



B) 1, 1/8TH was used on all 72-93 300/350 that used the 3" wide rear shoe I was also used in the front of 72 D/W 200 and all trucks equiped with optional Dana 70F 4500 LB front axle.



There were many different hubs that thes parts were put on. The above is a very general description of how parts were used. Keep in mind tha Chrysler built trucks to order for the fleets. There are many variations that I have not mentioned. .



Another thing worth mentioning is that the above brake ssystems were designed to be used with asbestos friction material... It is no longer produced. . Most of todays friction material does not work well with these systems !!!!!! you can expect as much as a 40% loss of efficiency with most of todays friction material. I reline my own shoes with performance

friction companies friction material. . It works well but wears fast.



Anyone that has questions on any of this is welcome to call me on the phone

The 1 1/8" bore cylinders will be for the 2nd gen Dodge trucks, but work just fine on the 1st gens.

Also stock on some 1991 trucks. I had that size on mine and they were oem.

 

[JLEONARD]

I also had the bell shaped drums.

That was the hardest part of the brake job I did when I first got my truck... . finding the correct parts.

After "the book" yielded the incorrect parts by both VIN and axle number on the door jam, my son literally told the parts store "get me every possible combination of brake parts for a 91 Dodge 1/2 to thru dually. There were 3 more sets of "stuff".

We used what matched up and returned the rest.

(and documented the numbers)

 

[mysteryman]

replacing drums and or rotors

Another thing worth mentioning is. .



When you have to replace a brake drum . The studs must be pressed out of the hub . install new drum on hub and press the studs back in... .



Sounds easy right ??? job done right..... WRONG !!



Now you must turn the drum so it runs true to the hub... .



Problem is the new drum it already 12. 00" in diameter...

Normally I find I need to turn + or - . 040 out to get to run true...



Then I'm ****** because the drum is only good to . 090 .

The drum is half worn out before I get it on the truck.



Then after that I have to balance the hub/drum to keep it from shaking the truck apart and or cracking all the sheet metal up...



In the past the solution was to just buy a new hub and drum assembly from Dodge... Perfect, problem solved



Well as of 8 months ago the new hub and drums were discontinued.

And worse yet... the vendor that made them went out of business...



To solve this problem I went out and bought a 10,000. 00 balancing machine to balance the rotors and drums...



I refuse to have a shaking truck !!!



I am negotiating and or getting bids from foundries to cast me drums and rotors. . I will be doing all the machine work.....





The end result will be blue print to spec and in balance hub/ rotors and hub/drum assemblies .....



But I swear... . life should not have to be this hard !!

 

[HHhuntitall]

Hmmm, that's all fine and dandy, but some of you are overlooking a critical point. My '93 pretty much stays hooked to a trailer, unless it's parked in the barn. So does my '97. I don't know about you guys, but I want the rear brakes doing all they can do. If they lock up before the front without a trailer, that's more than fine with me, because it means they're doing a great deal of work when the trailer is hooked. I converted a '92 to disk brakes a few years ago, but it involved an '01 rear axle out of wrecking yard, and welding new spring perches on the housing. I've also converted to the larger bore brake cylinders, and that works very well. The best thing you can do is to buy quality pads and make sure your hubs are in good shape, if you're keeping your stock axle. If you want to do a disk brake conversion, keeping your current axle, the only place I'd know to start would be DANA, and see if they can tell you something about a new backing plate and brake rotor assembly. mysteryman, if you get someone to make you something, please let us know in the obsolete parts section. I'm always looking for parts for these old Dodges.

 

[spikeman2000]

Excellent!! Keep us informed when these items will be available! Thanks. ... spike,,,

 

[WyattEarp]

so am i going to have trouble fixing my rear brakes/drums on my '92? I am going to have to replace a leaking wheel cylinder on the right rear, i was told at the auto parts store they have 2 sizes along with what size are the shoes, I have no idea never had them off lol... Any ideas or someone that might know for sure on the size of these items in question.
TIA... .

 

[SRadke]

If you turn the drums you can use either 2. 5 or 3" wide shoes. They use the same drum

 

[Mel Fuelling]

mysteryman,

I have replaced my front brake lines with braided stainless steel from two sources on

two 93 CTD pickups. They seem to work well so far. Are there any longer term problems with these replacements I should look out for? They seem to offer a firmer

pedal.



I stumbled across Performance Friction pads several years ago and really like them on

new rotors. Do they work as well on used rotors?



If you still have HD door hinge sets available, PM me, I would like to buy some.



Thanks,