Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1995 12V Perf. Upgrades

[BillNelson]

I am new to this board, and have some questions. We have a 1995 Diesel that has run like a dog since new. It now has 250,000 miles on it, and the engine is still good, but it is still weak. I read some of these posts trying to get an idea of things to do to increase the performance, but I don't really know where to begin.



The truck has a totally stock engine, 3. 54 gears (I think), automatic, and is a 4X4. It has never pulled well up hills with a trailer, and the thing shifts into overdrive at 65, so driving w/overdrive off makes it rev high in 3rd gear.



I saw in one post someone mentioned a 3K GSK. What is this?



The KDP is still in the engine, and the truck leaks at the front cam cover... probably it. Can someone list a set of modifications that can be done to make this truck run better? We don't want to do anything that will ruin the reliability of the truck, but some performance mods will be good.



Thanks in advance.

 

[53 Willys]

First Boost and EGT Gauges. That said The best first mod to mine was the 3K GSK this allows the engine to rev higher befor defeuling -it helps alot second a cam plate for the inj pump will make more power, after that the trans will probably need upgrading- a lower stall converter and beefier trans so you can get that new found power where it should be and from here on out it goes on and on it becomes a adiction

 

[zack_76401]

Try getting more air into the engine before you try putting more fuel into it. A less restrictive filter such as a simple K&N that fits in the stock box or a more complex cold air intake does these engines wonders... ... ... ...

 

[BillNelson]

What is the 3K GSK? Is it a chip, or hardware or what?



It does have a less restrictive air filter, I forgot about that.



I do know it need the lifters adjusted, and new injectors, because the others have so many miles on them.

 

[zack_76401]

its a 3000 rpm governor spring kit... basicall a kit with a spring in it that you install in the pump to let you rev over 3000 rpms before the pump begins vuttin fuel... ..... i think stock the pump begins cutting back fuel in the midd 2000 range ive heard as low as 2200 to 23000 but this kit blocks all that from happening..... hope this helps

 

[Dave Remillard]

I also have a 95, and from all the things I've read on this site and others, you would probably be better off with the 4K GS kit which would mean changing the exhaust and intake valve springs. You don't need to rev that high unless you want to, and for what ever reason the 160 hp pump I'm told simply runs better with the higher RPM kit. I recently purchased the parts to upgrade from the 3K kit to the 4K kit. Just looking for the time to do the work. Check out other sites like the NW Bombers site. They often have what they call bombing parties. An excellent way to meet new folks and get some experienced help with advice and installation of upgrades. My 95 was a dog also, but I really enjoy driving it now. Good luck, and don't be surprised if you find yourself wanting to spend a few more dollars after getting started. Done in a proper sequence and the modifications will be very enjoyable. Step #1 is definetly gauges. Good Luck

 

[BillNelson]

Thanks for the replies everyone.



Any recomendation for the best place to buy guages? I haven't had a chance to check out all the links on this site, but I will eventually.



Thanks again.

 

[zack_76401]

oh yeah if you can get away from it... . lose the cat and the muffler too if you like.

 

[BillNelson]

Yeah, Muffler fell off long ago, never got put back on!

 

[Extreme1]

Before you get too far, you have to decide where you want to end up. Based on the milage you have and the parts to get higher hp, decide if you want to get "carried away" before you start. It would be best to drive a couple trucks so you can make modifications in the most time and $ efficient manner.



Based on what I learned with the mods I've done over the years since I bought mine:



1) Different torque converter. A lower stall torque converter will make the truck accelerate a lot more for a given throtle application. I recommend Goerend Brothers, call them and ask their opinion on what you need to do based on the milage you have and where you want to end up horsepower wise.



2) 3,000 (3k) RPM kit. As mentioned in a post above, it will make the truck pull much better and to a higher RPM before defueling. The '94 & '95's defuel much earlier then later trucks and the automatics are the worst. I added a #5 fuel plate and couldn't tell the difference because of the stock converter being so inefficient and the defueling at just over 2k RPM. A 4k RPM kit isn't much value on an automatic because they don't rev above 3k unless you are really trying to rev it.



3) Fuel. No matter where you wnat to end up, your pump should be removed and recalibrated due to the milage and normal wear. The cylinders aren't likely recieving equal amounts of fuel anymore so that is a good place to start.



With that said, talk to the vendors here (Piers and others) and see where you would like to end up. Then either get your pump modified (by them) or get another pump that will frighten small children and install it along with the appropriate injectors. A pump stand recalibration of you old pump will eliminate the need for a fuel plate and cost about the same amount with better results.



Along with the fuel goes the balance of air. Again, while talking with the vendors about fuel, get their recommendations on air (turbo) changes.



Your existing air cleaner and mufferless exhaust might be up to the task but they might not, depending on where you want to end up.



After you have all this figured out based on time and money, start buying and installing parts. The trans mods and 3k GSK will really wake up a stock truck of our vintage because they needed these changes to start with.



I hope this helps, I wish I'd have known then what I do now. It would have saved me time and money. Of course, there are some better things around now than there were a while back...

 

[P-38]

Bill,



I too own a 95 auto with high miles and without a doubt I can tell you that any modifications will impress the sh$t out of you. that big ole diesel is just waiting for more fuel and air.



I tried to decide what my goals were before starting my upgrade quest but as soon as I felt that little kick in the pants I couldn't resist more.



My suggestions would be obviously get the gages!!! then have piers bench test your pump and do all the mods to make it whatever HP you want.



I started with a #6 plate in my stock 160 hp pump and that was good until something broke inside. I then called piers and bought a completely rebuilt one rated at 300 hp and had it installed... "now were talking" 3. 3k rpm springs, #4 plate, 191 delivery valves and who knows what else they did to it. It really rocks.



the rebuilt pump was somewhere around 1200 and installation was around $200



gages were +/- $200



next cometh the HX40 turbo and 4" down-pipe. then the High performance transmission upgrade--don't even know what that is yet.



good luck.

 

[TKemper]

Bill where do you live? Maybe someone could help you out. Todd

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by P-38

... as soon as I felt that little kick in the pants I couldn't resist more...

My problem exactly!



If some doctor can make a pill that will fix that before it happens he will sell a supply to most of the wives of the guys on this board...

 

[BillNelson]

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.



This truck is a farm truck, first and foremost. The problem is that it won't pull a good load of cows in the cow trailer up a hill! For that matter, it sometimes has a hard time pulling an empty cow trailer up the hill (air drag). This truck has a lot of miles on it, but it doesn't use oil, and the engine is still tight (from being underpowered all its life!) So with this amount of miles, it already needs new injectors, and like has been said before, fuel pump needs to be recalibrated or a rebuilt one installed. I am not used to working with Diesel engines, so a lot of these terms I am not accustomed to. Hopefully as I go through this site and read more, I will learn more.



TKemper, I am in SW Oklahoma (small town). It is not very big Dodge Country, and people don't know where the good diesel mechanics are located in OKC.



Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

[Howard Durand]

Bill,

You describe pretty much the same problems I had when I started towing an 8000 lb. travel trailer with my new 94.

The truck was constantly in and out of overdirve when traveling through hill country.

At the time, this forum with all of it's expertise, was not available to me so I decided to go with the Banks Power Pak. The reason being, they offered a kit of parts that covered the basic upgrades needed to get more power out of the truck.

Following the power pak installation, I had the transmission upgraded with a performance torque converter and valve body.

Those changes did improve towing but it took some tweaking of the AFC star wheel to get some acceleration.

I later replaced the 160 hp injectors with a set of Piers' 215's.

Also, with the auto transmission, you really need a way to control the torque converter lockup. I made one that works good for me but similar controllers are now available commercially.

Various vendors can supply all of the components you need to get where you want to be.

Figure out what you want your truck to do then find a vendor who can recommend a package of components to do that.

If I was doing it again, based on what I know now, I would work with Piers at Piers Diesel Services and Bill at DTT.

They are honest folks and give good advice.

 

[zack_76401]

If you look at the TST manual online there is a picture and instructions on how to wire in a torque convertor lock up switch for this prob with the auto's... ... looks fairly simply... . basically just hooking up a wire to 2 pins on one of your electrical connectors and then wiring in a switch so you can turn it on and off. Go to

tstproducts.com and click on the link for transmission kits... ... there is a wiring schematic on that page that shows you how to do this w/out buying anything. it says on there that it requirs a 3 dollar switch and some 18-20 gauge wire. improves 0-60 times by 3-5 seconds and you can lockup the TC in 2nd ,3rd and 4th gears the exact addy for the schematic is



www.tstproducts.com/tranny_install.html this will help you out man..... ive never messed with the auto as i have the nv4500 but my buddy swears this is the easiest way to make your transmission work for you... .....

 

[WadePatton]

Hey Bill, I know this is a bit late in reply, but I just found your post while searching for delivery valve information.



Something that I haven't seen mentioned is the throttle cable. If it hasn't been replaced under "safety recall"--do that first.



Second, with engine off, have someone hold the pedal to the floor and then see if you can move the linkage a bit further. I could. I put two zip ties on the cable at the pedal end and picked up 10MPH top speed with totally stock--doggish 160.



Since then I've added a lot of go-goodies, and I highly recommend the 3K GSK. Most of the other stuff I have will waste a stock transmission.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Bill Nelson Bill there aren't many people around OKC that do anything to 12V trucks because they don't know them, all people seem to know around here are adding boxes ect. I do all my own stuff, plates, injectors, pumps, timing, cyl heads, turbo's ect. If you would like some ideas for a setup with minimal money or all out performance shoot me a PM, I've been messing with this stuff for 2 years now but don't have a business(still debating that one).



Jim

 

[krs]

Bill,



I think that if I was near OKC I'd want to get to know Jim Fulmer above, so take him up on that offer.



The TST site posted above has good info. (Others do too, but not always as concisely) Just follow the link then go to the home page and start looking around. Look at the different cam plate power results, and where it says "this is as much as a stock transmission can handle (or words to that effect) bear in mind that they are talking about a stock transmission IN GOOD CONDITION. Problems with these Dodge transmissions have a way of not giving many warnings of a coming failure.



On that about transmissions, you should know ahead of time that modifications for power at this point in your truck's life will likely damage your transmission. When that happens a rebuild by any of the so called 'normal' builders, or any of the big discount type places won't do you much good for long. When you go to a performance builder you pay hotrod prices and that can be quite a bit of money - a figure around $4000. when all is said and done is not unusual.

 

[Stmpplr]

Compared to most of these folks I am dumber than a post when it comes to these engines. That does, however, make me extra careful. The ABSOLUTE FIRST thing I would do is to resolve that oil leak, and inspect the dowel pin postion, and condition of the gears.