2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1996 4X4 Front brakes are shot. Need help ASAP

[KHART]

OK guys, I let a local shop change my brake pads in the spring due to time constraints and even though I requested that they check Rotors and repair as needed they neglected to do so. So now my pads are gone again and I believe my rotors are beyond help. 'I' will be doing the work this time and plan on replacing rotors and calipers along with pads this. Thinking about using the loaded calipers from from autozone, what do you'all think? Also I need a detailed procedure for pulling the rotors,with any unexpected surprises I may encounter. Also a list of tools needed. I have to do this in the next 3 days along with baling and hauling 60 acres of hay. So time is crucial. . The truck is a 1996 4X4 2500. with 156000 miles and going strong. I love the cummins engine wish I could say the same about the rest of the truck!

 

[SEmerson]

I am not sure about autozone. But I used kragans cheap pads once. Thay lasted a little over a month. I then went with there heavy duty ones and I get about 10 monthes from them. I drive alot of in town and about 60k a year.

 

[shendren]

i changed my pads and rotors. it's a sealed bearing so you may be able to just take the rotor/bearing to a shop and have them turned. i got 50k mi out of my napa rotors/pads. make sure you get semi-metalic pads, not ceramix... ... ... ... ... .



no goofy tools.



i would have the rotors turned so that you don't have to remove them from the bearing.



illflem says just go ahead and change the rotors... ... .

 

[patrobertson]

I just did mine

Most likely they can't turn the rotors, mine were new and they couldn't turn them because they were too thin. This sucks because its a bear to get the bearing/hub out of the spindle. The spindile nut has to come off and the four bolts on the back side fo the hup bearing. I used a big hammer and used one of the bolts and but a small extention and socket 14mm 12 point and used it to hammer on the bolts and push out the hub assembly. Thats probally the hardest part,

After that use a lug nut on the studs and hammer them out, they should come out without too much work 1-3 blows with a small sledge, This separates the hub from the rotors, get new rotors 44$ at Autozone. And put back in reverse order with antisieze in case you have to do it again. I put on loaded calipers 70$ from a local Parts Plus dealer had better pads, if you have time do the 13$ rear brake cylinder upgrade, its worth it and saves the front breaks alot. I stop much quicker, my abs now actually has to work in the back. Call me if you have any questions, You can do it in a day if you have the right stuff, just took me a little while to figure it all out. So far my breaks are the best they have ever been and we have had the trucks since 25K now has 204k



Shane 801-628-5670

 

[y-knot]

First off I hope you are inquiring about this so you can do the job right?



I don't know if you have a 3500 or a 2500, but except for the wheel adapters the process is the same. I have a 3500 and just did my brakes, I only had 44,000 mile on my truck, and no the brakes really weren't that bad, but getting there am I wanted to up-grade there performace while I was doing it. Loaded calipers are your best option, you get a nice savings and one less part number to deal with. I would like to recomend RAYBESTOS, they offer good quality and a fair price. The loaded calipers pn RC10184SS, RC10183SS are the right and left side, they are there super stoppers, and work great. For rotor you can go with the regular replacement rotor, pn 56324. or you can upgrade to the SUPER STOPPER ROTOR, which is a heavey duty rotor that is crossdrilled and gas slotted, pn ST56324L, and ST56324R (these rotors are side specific, so there is a right and left part number).

The job really isn't that bad, I made a puller to remove my adapters, and the same puller worked on the hubs. I f you have the time and will, I would suggest flushing the brake system, so you have new fluid(brake fluid as a natural tendency to absorb moisture, bad for braking, moisture boils backing brake pedal soft)

Local prices were1. loaded calipers... . 68. 95

2. reg rotors... ... ..... 64. 95

3. ss rotors... ... ..... 109. 95

Hope this helps, make sure to check all the hoses, wheel cyc, lines ,ect.

Also there is an article in issue 40 , page 16 which goes through a brake job.

 

[IWeiny]

I don' tknow if yours is the same as mine but...

On my 99 it took me 20 hours to do a full EGR upgrade which included new calipers/rotors/pads in front and cylenders and pads in the rear.



I am not a mechanic but I do work on my own vehicles and this was without a doubt the worst project I have ever attempted. It did not help it was 90 deg outside.



Anyway I would look around for a shop that would do it. I kinda wish I had replaced the wheel bearings in there when I had the chance but I don't think I needed to.



Definatly get the puller, and use the inside bolts to "gently" tap against while turning the rotor as you pull. The real danger is having the sealed bearing separate on you. If you are replacing the bearings I guess it does not matter but I hear from other threads they are expensive so I was worried. I was able to get away with a 3 jaw puller as I finally found one and they did not have the extra 4th jaw. Had to order it and more money, so I tried it and was carefull and it all worked.



Good luck. For me there is anti seaze on everything so next time should be better.



Stupid Question of the week: What are "loaded" calipers?

 

[patrobertson]

Loaded Calipers

Loaded calipers come with new piston and seals and all that stuff plus the pads ready to go, Basically you put some break quiet on the pads and stick em on and your ready to go. Empty calipers are the caliper body themselves without the piston and what not.



Shane