Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 12 valve just blah..

[KnightR]

Bought this truck a while back. First Dodge Cummins and had lots of big FORD's and CHEVY big blocks. Use it just to travel back and fourth to my ranch. But lacks power, Lord help me if I try and pass someone unless it's downhill. Postive side...your can breath on the starter and it starts super fast. Purrs or whatever a diesel idle sounds like perfect. Good mileage. But my Chevrolet one ton would leave it in the dust pulling or not pulling. Since it runs good I just haven't bothered with all the folks suggestions. Is their such thing as a passing gear, kick-down switch. Help.

 

[Bob4x4]

It was built with 180hp what did you expect?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

call Mark Chapple at TST Products and get a Power Kit for it.

 

[BigPapa]

Since you spoke of "a passing gear, kick-down switch" I'm guessing it has an automatic transmission. Your TV cable may be out of adjustment if the transmission doesn't downshift under aggressive throttle.

Might I suggest that the first modification be valve body mods and a good torque converter? You could double your stock power level easily but if you're pushing it through a stock transmission you'll never be able to appreciate it.

After that I would second JD's suggestion.

 

[The patriot]

Gauges.......

 

[KnightR]

Thanks. Might try the power kit. But like everyone might end up as project number 2,535 and at my age I doubt I'll polish off the last five. Comments about the dodge stock automatic transmission are correct tho. I've drove better and suggestions for a swap plug and play.

 

[GrantP]

The governor springs may be part of the problem with passing power as well, especially if you have 4.10 gears. My 97 2500 would start defueling around 80 or so until I got the 3k RPM governor springs.

I think you'll be wondering why your big blocks are such dogs after a #6 plate and 3k GSK. It is truly a night and day difference. As others mentioned, some trans upgrades are needed to transfer that new power along with (at least) an EGT gauge.

 

[fest3er]

My truck used to be a demi-demon: up to 28PSI, lots of 'get up and get outta here'. It starts (with good started and alternator) with about a 1/4 sec. turn of the key. Lately, it can barely reach 18PSI boost. I suspect the fuel filter.

Stock, the '98 12V was never a slouch. But nor was it an acceleration demon.

In your case, I suspect something is limiting fuel flow. Could be fuel filter (asphaltenes could be plugging the filter). Could be a problem with the air line between the turbo and the AFC (which limits fuel in the lack of boost). Could be an air leak (with limited fuel as a side effect). It could be a rotted fuel line that lets air in (with poor combustion as a side effect). It could be a plugged pre-screener. It could be a load of very low cetane fuel. It could be as bad as a load of algae in the fuel system. Or the p-pump might've slipped, thus retarding ignition.

Start with the simple things.

 

[sgmans]

I felt the same way about my '94 3500 auto with 4.10 rear end when I first got it and put it to work in 2005. Here's what I went through to get mine to make power like I thought it ought to.

Get the valves adjusted, it's recommended every 24,000 miles.

Make sure the injection pump is timed properly with the engine. If the timing is off, then it's not injecting the fuel in the cylinder at the right time.

Make sure turbo and waste gate are functioning properly. My waste gate was stuck. I was getting 17 psi boost but the truck couldn't pull a greased string out of a cats butt! With the waste gate stuck, the engine was working against back pressure. It felt like my boss's Chevy 3500 with a 350 had more power! After the waste gate was fixed it was like a different truck.

Then I put on a BHAF, then a 4" turbo back and both these showed positive results. Next I got a TST power kit with new fuel plate, boost elbow, AFC spring kit, and also I added a Banks Twin Ram intake. All of this drastically improved the power. I'm getting nearly 30 psi of boost and I can accelerate going up hills now, where I'd lose speed before. And it doesn't smoke like crazy either. My truck has a 9' Reading tool body with a cover over the center section that has 60" from the floor to ceiling inside. The top of the body is 9'3" tall and the body itself weighs 2500 lbs. So my truck is always carrying a load.

I think next on my agenda with be a new transmission and TC, leaning toward a Firepunk Towmaster right now. I feel like the truck is making the power it ought to be, but a lot of that power isn't making to the wheels because of the sloppy TC and transmission. I also have a governor spring kit that I got from TST, that I'd like to put in as soon as possible.

After all these mods I'm a lot more happy with the truck. And wouldn't trade it for anything. My wife told me to get rid of it and get a new 2017 chassis cab but I'd rather have this one for a work truck! Hope this helps.

 

[HHhuntitall]

The timing and AFC valve calibration is usually the culprit.... For emission reasons, they retarded the timing, making it have to bring the rpms up to start building boost. A timing adjustment, an afc valve adjustment, and a quick check of the turbo dump valve should fix most of the problems....

 

[GAmes]

Get the valves adjusted, it's recommended every 24,000 miles.

There are scheduled maintenance items that are nothing more than revenue makers. This is one of them. A high mark-up on valve cover gaskets and a big labor charge for 10 minutes of time. I just checked mine the other day, after 102k miles. 5 of the 12 were tweeked slightly, but could have been left as they were.