Here I am

1st gen. hoods, wheels, diffs!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

steering fixed

Installation

Status
Not open for further replies.
hello all,



i have a few questions that i am sure some of you have an answer for... or at least a best guess.



first, does the hood from the older "power wagon" fit on the newer 1st gens? i like the chrome "power wagon" letters mounted in the middle!



second, how do i know which dana 70 i have? i know my ratio is 3. 54:1 from the decal under the hood. i see websites referring to the dana 70 std. and the dana 70 hd. was there a choice or is it a different application?



finally, does anyone know what the correct wheel backspacing is for our trucks? i know i could pull a wheel off and measure, but it sure is easier for someone who knows to let us all know!



cheers,



roy
 
I believe the hood will fit ok. I do not know how it will line up with the top of the grill, but it will probably be ok. However the grate under the wipers will not line up. You will have to rob that grill off an old truck to make it look right. I guess I don't understand why you would want a "bird bath" on your hood. :-laf I have a hood on my old 75 that is the "bird bath" style complete with the power wagon emblems. It also uses a 79 cab, which with the 79's came a differnt hood, like what our first genners have, that is more domed in the middle, thus having a taller grate under the wipers. I'll trade you hoods, no problem, I even have one of those grates if you want!



I have learned that the duallies had a heavier duty 70 rear, with larger axels, inner wheel bearings, and studs.



I have no idea what the backspacing is stock. Heck I don't even have any stock rims around to measure anymore. :D
 
I have seen/helped with that hood swap and it will go on. As mentioned above, you must also use the cowl piece (under the windshield where the wipers mount) from an early truck. Also, the hood latch doesn't line up. We unbolted the latch mechanism from the core support, moved it over to line up with the latch on the hood, drilled a couple of new holes and remounted.



It probably won't match up perfectly with the grill, but It doesn't look bad.



The birdbath hood is lower in front and does offer a little bit better visibility in the front of the truck. I too like the look of the hood and the power wagon symbols, but they are getting harder and harder to find around me. My buddy that did this painted the hood flat black (rattle can BBQ paint) and it looks cool, like a Macho package or an old Mopar muscle car.



I'm no help on the axle though... .



Donald
 
thanks for the tips, guys. i really like the look of the old hoods, but i never thought of the "bird bath" effect! does it really collect a pool of water? i suppose it must. it rains a fair bit where i live (a temperate rainforest), so something to consider.



you're right, donald... there are fewer and fewer of the old power wagons around. my neighbour down the street has one rotting in his driveway. it looks all cobbled together from a few trucks. he may be willing to part it out if he isn't going to drive it. thanks for the detail on what fits or doesn't quite fit!



does nobody out there know what our stock wheels have for backspacing?



and same with the dana 70. my assumption is that the manufacturer sticker under the hood would dictate whether the axle was hd or not. mine simply says "rear axle spicer 70", or something like that.



thanks again for your input.



cheers,



roy
 
does it really collect a pool of water



Yes they do. If you had a gas engine with that model hood you did not open the hood with the engine warm. The ballast resister for the ing system was mounted by the brake booster. It would blow it everytime it was hot and got a bath from the hood indents.



But on a side note. A lot of commerical shops made a killing from this design flaw. Shop price on the resister was $20. Service call was $25. An hour of labor for troubleshooting was $25. So total bill to repair on the side of the road or a gas station parking lot was around $75. If you didn't **** the guy off. If you did then everything went higher.
 
I went out and looked at my truck and this is what I found. Thanks to the previous owner, my spare is mounted backside down on the carrier. For you, this is good. Laying on my driveway in the dark with a flashlight, it looks to be 4 inches of backspace.

Travis. .
 
... . laying on my driveway in the dark with a flashlight... .



THIS is why the TDR rocks! Every one of us, EVERY one of us, has done the driveway movie, and the sequel sucks too, but yet we still do it, information is passed, people feel good about themselves for doing the cold concrete cha-cha, and we keep on truckin'... (I need a tissue... :-laf )
 
travis,



that was above and beyond the call of duty! in the dark with a flashlight, even!! :--)



i feel humbled. i could have done the same myself instead of waiting for someone to reply, safe and warm by my computer.



my hat is off to you. i owe you at least a six pack if you're ever up this way.



cheers,



roy
 
HTML:
the cold concrete cha-cha



That is too funny :-laf :-laf



And then there was the 67 Chevy pickup... . I rebuilt the engine (250/6 cyl) with the block still in the truck... laying on my back in a gravel driveway..... :eek: in the early spring with the snow melt dripping all over me :-laf :-laf

The crap we do to keep these mechanical monsters running!!!

I'm sure we could all tell a few stories..... hey... that might make an interesting thread!!



Jay
 
Think nothing of it. It was prolly in the mid 60s when I did it. Hell, I was bare-foot in shorts and a t-shirt! It was really no biggie, I remembered my spare was upside down so I did it, simple as that. It gave me a chance to go touch my truck. I was out of town from monday afternoon to wednesday afternoon, I needed my fix.

Travis. .
 
Against all logic, but w-250 and 350 diesel models with single rear wheels have the Dana 70 LD (light duty) rear axle. Just rebuilt mine.
 
The Dana 70 std. duty has been used by all three of the major truck manufacurers. They all have the 3. 5" axle tube in different widths and hub/brake combos depending on the model year and make. The max weight rating is 7500lbs, 8,000lbs intermitent torque with 2,000lbs continuous torque. They have been used in single or dual wheels.



The Dana 70 HD is rated at 10,000lbs cap. with 8,800lbs intermitent torque and 2,000lbs continuous torque with 4" axle tubes. The ring & pinion is the same on both models with the HD having larger carrier brg's. They are mostly used in the P-model Chevy chassis, like the cookie type vans or motor homes. Not saying they are not used by other makers, but I have never seen one in anything but Chevy, unless it has been transplated. I have one in my "74" Ford with excelent results.





"NICK"
 
thanks dman and nick,



i am considering a detroit locker or some type of selectable locker (arb, etc. ) for my truck. i have seen listings for dana 70 std. and dana 70 hd. and was not quite sure how to know what i had.



cheers to everyone for the info and the laughs!



and remember, gas is what you pass through your ass, not through your truck. :D



roy
 
I'm in the midst of swapping a complete '77 clip onto my 90 one ton.

I changed the doors, fenders, hood, cowl piece, lower valence and grill.

I used the rad support from the 90, but modified the headlight buckets, and made different "tabs" to mount the lower valence below the grill.

Though, to answer your question, I never did try the 'old' hood with the 'new' sheetmetal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top