1st gen KDP tab & gear housing bolts

[NOMOFO]

Well I tried searching but wasn't able to get a clear picture. Sorry if I have overlooked the obvious but...



First question:

Apparently a tab needs a step in it for a 1st gen or maybe a longer bolt and spacer then use a 2nd gen tab??? I already made a 2nd gen tab before opening the cover or researching here.

@%^* me for not paying attention before hand.



Second question:

Did anyone count how many bolts there are to check in there and are any hiding behind gears? I thought I saw bolt heads through the holes in the cam gear.



TIA for any help here,

Bob

 

[NOMOFO]

Okay so I just bent the 2nd gen tab into a stepped piece and it's perfect.

There are 2 timing cover mounting bolts behind the crank pulley, one of which you can access by lining up the hole in the gear.

the other, kind of outboard on the drivers side you can't. At least with the offset tools I have. The SnapOn idle adjust wrench almost works but not quite. Probably couldn't get enough torque on it anyway. Guess I'll try and bend a wrench or maybe pull the cam gear off?

I don't think one could get it out for Loctite unless one does.

Any thoughts?????

 

[Case500D]

Bob,



I just got done doing the KDP on my '93 dually. It currently has 280K on the clock and the pin had not moved a bit. I found one bolt in the case loose, but the rest were tight. I didn't count bolts, but there are 3 bolts behind the cam gear. One holds is for holding the timing gear case to the block and the other 2 are for holding the cam retainer. The can all be accessed through the holes in the cam gear. All of the other timing case bolts are easily visible. Hope this makes sense.



Jeremy

 

[NOMOFO]

Well I had to shelf the project for several days but upon resuming

discovered a several things:



1) There are 2 housing bolts behind the cam gear. One you can access through a gear hole the other ( down by the lower and outboard cam retainer bolt ) you can not. A box end wrench will not be allowed because of the fillet shape at the back of the cam gear blocks it. I was able to get a crowfoot on it enough to be somewhat confident that is tight enough. To get full access to this one I'm convinced you would have to pull the cam.



2)I was able to bend a step into the flat tab that I made easy enough but trying to torque the bolt rotated the tab so far that it no longer covered the pin. I backed it off and tried to block it from turning by inserting a rod into the pin hole but as I torqued it I just bent the #$%^ out of the tab. Numerous tries and 2 wasted tabs later I threw in the towel on this method.



So with this and no idea when I might be able to come up with a KDP jig ( and I always feared the shavings dropping in anyway ) I

came up with the idea of a bolt and nut through the cover. Spent about an hour making a template and dry running. Am convinced this will work. A 1 1/4" # 10 bolt with a nylock on the inside of the cover and also added loctite redundantly perhaps. This bolt nearly bottoms right on the pin.

 

[sparks57]

My KDP ended up in my oil pan a couple of months ago, lucky me my engine is OK. Nobody made any warnings, so I assume it's ok to run the engine without it.



So why don't people just remove them, or do I need to get a new one and replace it?

 

[Tim1]

pin

Hey c. b, the reason you can't remove it is you can't get anything on it to grab it, short of welding a rod on it. You don't need it if it has passed through. That said, I found the bolts loose that secure the inner housing and the pin moved out 1/8th of an inch. Just tapped it in and tabbed. Locktight with blue 272 all bolts and good to go. When I removed the big nut on the fan, I used a big punch break to it loose, then a spanner wrench. I'll make a note here for you guys, check TDC while you are in there and it will relieve your mind when advancing the pump timing. This is a easy project. Tim

 

[sparks57]

Thanks, just what I wanted to hear!