1st gen winch idea

[vhaines]

Ok call me crazy but i wanna throw something out there. I was thinking of fabricating a non- obtrusive mount for a winch on my truck without spending a bunch of money. . i have a two wheel drive n i know its not as common but if anyone has any ideas that wouldnt look corny or a link or something that would be nice. I'm a desert rat n don't ever have a need for:-{} four-wheel drive but i work with my truck constantly:-{}. A winch could come in handy. . besides i have a warn 12K WITH MOUNTING BRACKET OFF A JEEP on my garage floor with the rollers. Any ideas?



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93 1ton dually getrag Pyro boost bhaf ported horn 16cm Turbo housing straightpipes 6 in kenworth. Stacks auxiliary fuel tank kdp pacbrake

 

[DVolk]

Mount it on a receiver that can me mover or removed

 

[RSchwarzli]

Yeah. That is one of the best styles is a reciever mount. Pop it in when you go to the dunes, and leave it out when you are around town. That's what we found best when doing my buddies Jeep.

Robert

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

A front trailer hitch could get a lot of side force on it, or otherwise exceed its capabilities. You might consider a Reunel winch mount bumper, with or without the brush guard.

Reunel Extreme Heavy Duty Bumpers

 

[HHhuntitall]

I've built a bunch of winch bumpers and the old 1st gens were one of the best to do it on, as they got a lot of room under the radiator. There can be a lot of strain on a hitch, and while it's a good idea, I don't usually recommend using much over an 8500lb for removable use. Besides being too dang heavy to carry in the mud or snow, they can really tweak your winch mount, or even break off with side shear. I, personally, really like the Ruenel bumpers, and they look a lot like what I would build. Either way, you're gonna have to spend some cash to make them work well, be it custom built or factory fabbed. On a 2wd, a rear mount seems to work best, for me, as when you're working with it, you have access to all your tools in the bed at the same time. I've used a removable winch quite a bit pulling windmills for repair, plow and tractor repair, and on stubborn or injured cattle. I've broken several, too. Another consideration is amp load on extended cables to the back. I've repaired several that have burned up, including my own. On that note, most of what I see burned up are the battery connections. I've seen terminal posts completely melted on top of the battery!! Lastly, use always dictates service life. Electric winches are meant to be used for recovery, and only rarely to be used at their max capacity. Always over size your winch for what you'll be loading it with, if you want it to last.



Anyone seen a current price on the Reunel's fronts for the 1st gens?



AHHHHGGGGG!!! Found it, and they have stainless steel bumpers available!!!!!!!!:--)

$3300

 

[GHarman]

Stainless Steel Bumpers!!!!

Man, What will they come up with next! Polished up, they would shine like chrome and never chip! HOWEVER! Let me weigh in with some basics. If it is 304 Stainless Steel, it is worthless for load applications. That is a non-heat treatable alloy and is quite soft. It has 1. 5X the coefficient of expansion of carbon steel which means that while you are welding it you better sequence your welds and watch the distortion cause it will move!

The thing about the 300 series of stainless steels(besides being expensive) is that it work hardens. Drilling with HSS bits is very tricky. Cobalt bits work the best with constant feed pressure and coolant.

When welding you need to keep every tool free from carbon steel contaminants. Use Stainless Steel brushes and clean weld joints with virgin tools(New grinding wheels, files and brushes). A contaminated surface or improper heat input during welding will result in an inferior weld that will rust! Stress corrosion cracking in the weld can happen in worst case scenerio high heat input(not moving fast enough) and Sigma phase embrittlement.

IMHO, Its just pretty, not for regular useage! You are much better off in more ways than one, with A-36 carbon steel. GregH

 

[HHhuntitall]

..... and guess what Stainless Ruenel uses?!? Crud. Well, I guess it's best that way. I wouldn't want a $3300 bumper on a $2500 truck... .

 

[vhaines]

3300$??? I'm in the wrong business. I'm more of a Fab it up myself kinda Guy. I think ifthe back of my truck weren't so tied up I'd consider that but I've got stacks behind the cab then behind them I've got my diamond plate toolbox with an auxiliary fuel tank taking up up all space under box I've only 1foot of space till i hit my 5 wheel setup. I needto build a bumper that supports a winch that looks ok on a 2wd. So basically hide it behind so only the rollers show.

 

[GHarman]

..... and guess what Stainless Ruenel uses?!? Crud. Well, I guess it's best that way. I wouldn't want a $3300 bumper on a $2500 truck... .

None of the other familys of Stainless Steel would be affordable or applicable.

Now, if you wanted to fabricate some for looks to sell to those that can afford them. Theres nothing wrong with some bling. The issue for the fabricator is that Stainless Steel is very expensive. It requires a backing purge or flux for a 100% penetration weld. You have to watch your processes and material specs very closely to put out a good product. It is not very forgiving. Generally, the welds will show some rust when exposed to the elements, anyway!

If you want piping that can handle Nitric Acid Solutions, that is where 304 Stainless Steel really shines!

Carbon steel, on the otherhand, is very forgiving. Materials are about 1/3-1/4th the cost of S. S. . Processes are basic and no back purge or flux is required for a 100%penetration weld. Low carbon steel does not work harden.