2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2" Front Suspension Lift - Advice Needed

[RockinJ]

I am looking to you fellow BOMBers out there for advice on the CORRECT way to do a 2" leveling lift of the front suspension on my 2001. 5 2500 Quad Cab 4X4 Short Box. I have seen many posts mentioning bits and pieces on this topic, but never the whole enchilada! I want to do it ONCE, and do it RIGHT.



My 2500 has new Michelin LTX M/S LT265/75R16 hides mounted on factory 16 x 8 alloy wheels. This rig is used for hauling light to medium loads and for occasionally towing a tandem axle livestock trailer. All I want to do is level her off real nice - nothing else. I am considering Skyjacker D25's for the lift, but need your advice on the following suspension components:



Adjustable Track Bar: (a) Is it really necessary with only a 2" leveling lift to the front suspension? (b) Which brand of adjustable track bar is recommended?



Control Arms (Links): (a) For a 2" lift, do I need to go with longer arms? (b) If so, how much longer? (c) Which brand is recommended?



Shocks: (a) Ranchos or Bilstiens? (b) What model number or part number for the FRONTS (with a 2" lift) and the REARS (at stock height)?



Steering Stabilizer: (a) Who makes the BEST single-shock steering stabilizer set-up that fits a 2001. 5? (model number or part number).



Miscellaneous Stuff: Are there any other steering, brake or front suspension components that I have overlooked for doing a proper 2" lift to the front end?



Best Place to Buy: Who offers us TDR members the best deals and customer service on all of these parts???



THANKS Y'ALL !!!!

Rockin' J

 

[SS]

J,



Here's what I did: spring install

The following is just my opinion, so take it for what it's worth.

Track bar: adjustable is not required. It's difficult to notice the axle is slightly offset. But, new track bar will likely have a better joint at the frame end than the stocker.

Control arms: longer arms are not required. I have 3" of lift, but wouldn't go more without longer arms.

Shocks: can't help with brand, but my stock shocks were too short for 3" and probably even for 2". Some guys have no problems.

Steering Stabilizer: I couldn't find one to replace stock some time ago. Might be available with a universal bracket though.

Miscellaneous Stuff: everything else should be o. k. Check brake hoses, axle disconnect hoses/wires, and axle vent hose. And make sure you loosen and tighten the control arm bushings after the truck is sitting on the wheels.

Best Place to Buy: lots of opinions here I'm sure.

Do a search on leveling kits, spring install, and the like and you should find plenty of reading material. Good luck.

 

[RockinJ]

Thanks!

Howdy Steve,



Thanks for your input and suggestions!



RJ

 

[AKAMAC]

I'm doing the same. Got the springs and Blistines from "off road warehouse" with the TDR discount. The shocks # be5-6681-h5 are back-ordered to the end of the month. 290 for the whole shootin' match.

I will get an alignment when done. Mike

 

[RockinJ]

Thanks Akamac . . . when you get the lift kit installed, let me know how it turned out.



RJ

 

[AKAMAC]

RockinJ,

I finally received the shocks from ORW. (2 month back order ) I painted the springs black today and will bake them tomorrow. (That red is just wrong ) I will get it all together saturday and post. I am hoping that I will be able to get the FE back where it is now, it tracks soooo well. By the way the Blisteins are nice and stout. If I had it my way I'd rather do the T-Rex system but transmission and daughters, 16 years old, car purchase take precedence. :{ Mike

 

[AKAMAC]

Well I did the install.

The caster #'s are close to where they were from stock height so I'll leave those as they are. The steering wheel is going to need to be re-centered (easy job). The only problem I had was with the right side upper trailing arm. To R&R the bolt I had to use a come-along to pull the axle back into alignment. My new neighbor came over as I was finishing with the offer of his spring compressors. If I were to do this again I would use them. The springs only need to be compressed about 1. 5" to fit w/o removing the UTA bolt.

I also reused the stock shock tower mounting bushings. The ones that came with the new shocks were wimpy, I did replace my sway-bar bushings with them though. A perfect fit :-laf .

I didn't remove the shock tower mount, I just took the shock and spring out together, same going in. The only tricky part was getting the lower bushing on after/while removing the strap that keeps the shock compressed. There isn't enough room to slip them on with the shock fully extended. I found this out on the left side . I used a nail bar on the right side shock boot washer to hold it down while I put the stock washer and bushing on.

All in all it was an easy 3 hrs. Tools were: 1/2" impact, 3/8" air ratchet; 3/4", 13/16", 15/16" sockets; 1/2", 5/8", 13/16" wrenches. Mike

 

[AKAMAC]

After pics

Don't pay attention to the dirt!

 

[dieselshadow]

I used 2" spacer cups on the coils. This way you keep your factory ride. You do have to change your shocks, otherwise you'll limit the suspension travel. The stock control arms work fine up to 3" lift. I replaced mine with arms with urethane bushings from BDS suspension. They also have the CORRECT valved and length shocks for that lift. Oo. I am completely satisfied with thier products. The spacer cups are readily available from several different manufactures. I don't think these are all that different from one another. Your choice there. I'm still running my stock track bar only with a luke's link on it. That is a must have. I have no adverse handling at all. When you get your truck realigned after you lift it (yes you will have to have it realigned!) if the tech asks to what specs, tell him the same specs as factory.



Hope this helps - Jason

 

[Eric Lee]

2" for me too -

I am doing this to my baby too - I ended up going with the Black Poly spacers and longer Rancho shocks. I deliberated this for a while and decided that the stock springs are beefier and had more coils (= softer ride). I thought about the D25s too - didn't care for them. I will be using the stock bushings where possible. After looking at the photos of the Bilsteins on this thread, I think I would opt for those but the Ranchos are on my bench and I'll be putting them in (after a black paint job). I won't be doing anything else other than an alignment - sounds like by the thousand posts I've read that the geometry isn't effected much with this small lift.

Well - Maybe some 33" Goodyear Wrangler M/Ts or BFG Mud Terrains - I like the stock rims with tall and narrow so 255/85-16 is what I'd order. (33. 3" tall and only 10" wide)



Since seeing the pics on this thread - I've put the Skyjacker Nitro (thought they were Rancho) shocks up for sale and ordered Bilstien 5100's from ORW - still thinking about the longer arms. I got the paper out and the ruler and come up with almost 3/8" that the axle could be moved to the rear with the 2". sounds excessive - I thought it would be negligable.

 

[jrobinson2]

Dodge has used both "cross steer" and "Y" type steering linkage in these trucks, a truck with the Y steering should definately have the toe in checked as it toe's in as the axle goes down, the cross steer trucks with the solid tie rod should only need the steering wheel centered

Jared

 

[biggy238]

I just threw on some new control arms from DT pro fab that are a nice addition for the 2" lifts. They are the . 5 inch longer model which puts the axle back under the springs. The 2 inch lifts increase the severity of bumps in the road because of where the axle is placed under the springs. Seems I have a freak of nature but with my 35" bfg's and 10 inch rims I had a serious fender rub. Lots of guys are getting away with stock rims and 35 inch tires from what i've read. Just thought you'd need to take that into consideration if you plan for larger tires in the future.

 

[Eric Lee]

AKAMAC - Thanks for posting your pics - I had the Skyjackers ready to go in till I saw your Bilsteins.

I deliberated the 2" lift for a while and ended up with what I think is a great set up -



Daystar Leveling Spacers in Black - eBay - $120

Stock Springs - Use spring compressor, all I unhooked was the sway bar.

Daystar 3 1/2" Bumpstops in Black - Rocky Mountain - $30

Bilstien nickel plated shocks - I like them so much I have a set coming for the back. - Off Road Warehouse - $150

BFG A/T's 295/75-16 - Belle Tire - $770 - A little over 33" and they rub just a little on the fender liner at full lock. I'm glad I didn't try anything taller, the 33's look good.



Full Front end alignment - Belle Tire - $45 - This was the deal of the day, $75,000 fully computerized machine.

The stock lower link arm's eccentric cam bolt at full forward adjustment and taking up the 3/8" the lift shifts the axle to the rear.

Most sources agree that with the modifications done with this 2" lift, new link arms or track bar are not required. I found out during this 'bombing binge' that my stock track bar is worn and I'll be researching options with the '03 Bar and Solid Steel's bracket at the top of my list now.

 

[Eric Lee]

About the spring compressor - Use the type that operates from the outside of the spring and use the safety eyebolts that locate one end of each to the spring. I borrowed these from an old friend - He is one dangerous mechanic -( two years ago he had a car fall off the lift - which knocked over a gas can - then a halogen light - which scared the cat - that ran up the wall - any way his whole place burned down -) and when he pulled the safety eyebolts out of the bottom of the box, I thought he was going to toss them in the trash can - but instead he said "make sure you use these" if Chuck uses them, I sure the hell am too -- Eric

 

[cArNiVaLwOrKeR]

I have the S/J 2. 5's see my pics.

 

[Eric Lee]

Pics of 2" Lift and 33's

Here's my baby with a little lift and bigger rubber. - I park it right outside the door at my shop and stare at it - I need to start parking it around the corner.

 

[Eric Lee]

And another

I think I know now what it feels to be a parent - I think I'll get these in wallet size - Eric

 

[rholcom2]

I have just purchased a Dick Cepek leveling kit with the aftermarket lower control arms. They are suggesting that I do not ues the original Cam-Bolt. Does anyone know why this is?? Also, where can I pick these up. I am sure the dealership would have them, but is there anywhere cheaper?? Thanks for your help!!!!

 

[BLACKRAM]

I just did the exact lift you are asking about. First of all, the skyjacker D25 front lift WILL NOT level your truck. It will make the front higher than the rear, and you will need to have blocks added to the rear to level the truck. I would rec the Bilsteins over the Rancho (Monroe) shocks. Any more lift than 2. 5 will require longer control arms. I suggest the DT (or similar) track bar. I also suggest the longer shocks.

 

[EBottema]

Hey-



I would recommend going with either the DT track bar or the 3rd gen track bar upgrade. An adjustable bar is not required.

I would go with the Skyjacker D25 springs, get them from rockey mountain suspension parts, great customer service.

Stick with 5100 series bilstein shocks from ORW and get the TDR discount.

Stock control arms work fine with a 2. 5" lift but they flex a lot and allow the front end to move with rubber bushings and weak steel. Go with the DT link arms. They are very strong and very clean looking. I'm happy with mine. I also sell DT products and sell at a discount if you end up deciding to use their products, pm me for a price quote.



To top off the lift, go with a DSS steering brace...



good luck

erik