20 mph for $35??

["Mad Max"]

Wow, if I had known it was this easy it would have been the first thing I would have done!



Okay, the converter helped a bunch as far as usable power, but I just installed a new set of pivot linkage between the throttle lever (gas pedal) and injector pump lever. Apparantly the old, stock, plastic version was old and stock, and the new replacement version available from the dealer (number not in front of me now, but will get it for y'all) is steel with nylon inner fittings. After installing the new linkage, my 214,000-mile engine gained no-bull 500 rpm and tops out around 90 mph. Okay, so the pump wasn't getting full travel , but such an improvement! Night and day difference! It sounds too simple, and it is, so long as you're looking for it. Now, at 70 mph, I have lots of pedal left over, and the turbo has never sounded so good. And did I mention it get up there a lot faster now too??!

Anyway, cheap upgrades for new diesel owners, especially those with high miles.

- Sam

 

[cguthrie]

HUH $35 sounds a bit too cheap for the dealership They wanted me too pay $20 for the rubber brake pedal.



Chris

 

[cguthrie]

Really good info though







Chris

 

["Mad Max"]

Actually no, it's not too cheap. Mopar part # 5011956AB - Actual cost was $40 - I was off by $5. Best money I've spent on the rig. Worth every penny - I would have paid a lot more for the performance gain...

If you don't have any slack in your linkage then don't bother, but the new stuff is much better quality.

To install it remove the current plastic ball joint linkage and toss it far away. Then unbolt the stud from the injector pump and replace it with the one in the kit (The kit only comes with one stud. ) The stud on the throttle lever is either welded or pressed in place. We had another stud so we replaced that one too. Then screw together the new linkage kit, adjust up the linkage to remove the slack, and press it in place using a pair of pliers. They're hard to press over the studs so a little convincing will be needed. Big, huge difference.

- Sam

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

SamsRams,



I bet you already know this, but for those who don't ... have someone get in the truck and depress the gas peddle.

You watch the throttle travel under the hood.

When the peddle is on the floor, try rotating the "throttle cam" manually to see if there is any more travel.

Also, when you replace the linkage with the new ones, make sure that the breakover spring setting is correct too.

On the throttle shaft, and slightly under it you'll see two spring ends sticking out. In the center of those two ends is a center post. Just work the throttle back and forth ever so slightly and you'll see the parts working.

When properly set, the round post should be touching the rear spring end when at idle position.

This serves as a "shock absorber" for the throttle shaft and cushions the stresses on the throttle shaft itself. It helps prevent bushing/seal damage from sudden or sharp pulling/snapping back pressures.

I have a picture in my readers rigs galler of this and what it looks like.

Loosen the locknuts on the throttle linkage and turn the threaded "throttle rod" until it just starts to put "pulling pressure" on the throttle shaft. So long as the post/breakover spring is making contact on the rearward end of the spring you're good to go.



Sorry if this is long.



Bob.

 

[btoscano]

I called my Dodge dealer and they told me 5011956AB was a "rod" for $33-35. The part from the accelerator pedal is 53006917 and costs $56.



Does this sound right??



Thanks,

 

[bgilbert]

I paid about $20 for the updated throttle auctuation rod. Same price from Cummins or dealer. Run a search I posted both part numbers for it.

 

[btoscano]

I did run a search.



There's no mention of a part number for a cable from the accelerator pedal to the linkage. But the cables do stretch and can be the problem if I'm not getting to full throttle on the pump, right??



Thanks,

Brian

 

[boatpuller]

Unless your cable is frayed don't replace it, just grab your throttle pedal and pull up on it, the bar that puls on the cable gets bent, just bend it up a little and full motion will be returned.



Hope this helps,



Caleb

 

[btoscano]

Caleb, thanks, so is this the $20-25 rod that both the Cummins and Dodge dealers sell with the plastic ends that like to go bad that you're referring to ?? Just want to be sure before I spend the money, because the plastic ends look fine on mine.



Brian

 

[boatpuller]

That's the linkage Sam is refering to, I'm refering to the piece on the inside of the firewall that the pedal is attatched to the bottom and the cable is attatched to the top.

I'm still running the stock plastic joints, one of these days I'll get the metal ones, have a tywrap on one end of mine to keep it from falling off, it did that about 2 months after I got the truck(approx 50,000 miles ago) and I tied it on with the tywrap and it's been fine ever since.



Happy Rammin,

Caleb

 

[dpuckett]

Pedal travel

I took the pedal and lifted it up, letting a little slack in the end of the cable to show, then pull GENTLY on the cable. Then I took some baling wire (maybe elec fence wire) and wrapped it around the metal part of the cable between the pedal bracket and the end of the cable, taking up the slack of the worn cable. LIke anything else, I'll post a pic if I think of it when I'm around a truck.



Daniel

 

[btoscano]

So, if I have this correct, if I spend $56 for the entire cable assembly, I won't have to use bailing wire and the bent rod by the gas pedal wont' have to be straightened.



I guess I'm still confused how the $20 part can get 20 MPH if it doesn't bend, just the plastic breaks. Seems to me if the plastic breaks you don't go anywhere. ??

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I found a great solution to this one.....

I have a few different sized upholstery washers... .

They are a slightyl domed, stainless washer with a bonded rubber "plug style" back.

I slipped one over the "ball" on the end of the throttle cable, folded it in half rubber side onto the cable and pinched it.

Works like a charm.



pb...

 

[boatpuller]

I'm just guessing, but I think Sam could have gotten the same results for $0000 by adjusting his old linkage, it must have been out of adjustment. I don't know if just replacing the cable would return all the motioon back, if the rod behind the pedal is bent a new cable isn't going to change that.

 

[bgilbert]

btoscano, the updated rod is metal with metal end caps not PLASTIC.

 

[btoscano]

What are the chances the rod by the pedal will break if its bent back into shape? Should it really just be replaced?



bgilbert,



I know the new rod has metal ends. I think Sams comments about replacing the rod and getting 20 MPH confused me. Adjusting what he had would have probably done the trick too. I am more familiar with Mercedes diesel engines & there are several linkage rods on each. Many times the rods have plastic ends & in some cases I've replaced them with metal ones. The metal ones I have may even fit on the Bosch pump on the Dodge.



Thanks,

Brian

 

["Mad Max"]

Fellas -

Basically what happened was the original linkage was really badly worn, and as such my pump wasn't getting full travel, and as a result the truck would defule too early.

The new linkage looks basically the same but the ends are steel with a nylon/coolieum insert, and there was zero play after that. After popping on the new linkage the pump was getting full tilt, and I gained 20 miles per hour on the top end. I still couldn't believe how easy it was and how much was missing.

- Sam

 

[JLEONARD]

nylon/coolieum insert

Will this work with non-intercoolieum engines?



Yes there is at least one in every crowd.

Jay

 

[bgilbert]

I think Sam was just trying to point out to the newbies and VETERANS about adjusting the throttle linkage and making sure you have full travel. Tip to all, have someone in the cab with throttle pedal mashed to the floor and you check that the throttle rod at the fuel pump is getting full travel, that is the lever is touching the high idle or governor screw. If not you'll need to loosen/tighten the throttle rod nuts. This is where you'll want/wish you had the updated rod with metal end caps, cause the cheap plastic ones like to break when you tighten loosen the nuts against them. Plus when you start playing with the governor screw, you'll be loosening/tightening the nuts on the throttle rod again, and over time this will give the plastic caps more chances to break.