2000 JEEP GC Steering binding

[Stranger]

This one is a puzzler, well for me at least.



Steering binds when turning to the right.

Owner wants t change PS pump, I don't think that's the issue. PS pump doesn't care if your turning left or right, correct?



I think there's a burr or some other issue in the box. Like hitting a curb that makes one of the balls worry and wear a spot on the worm gear.



Problem is the sector shaft doesn't wobble or move erratically. Taking the pitman arm off in the AM and going to turn the wheel to see if I'm correct in m thinking.



Am I on the right path, or am I lost and just need to change the pump?



Thanks in advance.

 

[Stranger]

No ideas?



Took the tie rod off the pitman arm and the steering wheel tutns with no binding, lock to lock, engine off or on.



Front end off the ground and and turning the road wheels lock to lock there's no binding.



Is it the pump?

 

[MShaheen]

check the joint where the draglink mounts into the tie rod end and see if there is contact with the sway bar mount.

 

[Stranger]

Checked that, no interference.

Thought it might be the right CV joint, nope.

Let me throw this at ya.

If the front diff fluid hasn't been changed (ever, probably), the clutches could grab and make the wheel kick back?

That's kinda what it feels like.

Pull the cover, drain, refill w/90-140 and 2 tubes of friction modifier?

 

[Tractorat]

Is it like you hit a stop, and then can steer thru it ? I had a 1993 buick that had that problem. It didnt seem too bad at first. Then one day I was driving down the freeway at about 65mph and the road curved to the right. Well, the steering wheel wouldnt let me steer with the road. I just backed off a bit, and then really put my weight into turning the wheel. I was able to make the turn, but it really scared the heck out of me. I took it to a buick dealer the next morning. They told me that a piece of plastic had broken in the steering column and had to be replaced. That fixed the problem. Because of the danger, they said they really didnt want me to even drive away from the dealership in that condition. I believed them.



TRat

 

[Stranger]

Not so much a stop, just gets stiff and you have to put a lot of muscle in it and the wheel kicks back while the road wheel rolls then, eases up.

Kinda like a u-joint that's almost at the limits of travel. this has CV joints tho.

Did read on a Jeep forum that if the Friction Modifier is old, the clutches in the diff grab and makes it think it needs 4WD.

That may explain the bad wear on the RF tire. It's doing all the pulling but the dang thing doesn't track to the right.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would say it's definitely not the pump. The pump just supplies pressure as called for by the steering gear, bypassing when not being called for. I think you may be on to something with the front differential, if it is locking when you turn to the right the right wheel would try to go straight as it would be on a smaller turning radius than the left wheel. Does that make any sense? bg

 

[Stranger]

Makes perfect sense, considering the RF is worn out and the rest are acceptable.

 

[Stranger]

Well, I changed the fluid and added 7oz of FM. It's better but, not right.



I'm so pizzed right now.

 

[MShaheen]

wait, the front has a limited slip? Your front should just be an open dana 30, not limited slip or is the limited slip something you added?

Give us some info on the jeep, v8, straight six, t-case thats in it. Its sounding like you could have a binding up cv joint, or the case is wore it and begins to bind.

Go to an open parking lot and turn full lock and start driving in a circle. If you feel hoping or twisting then the case is wore out.

 

[Stranger]

2001 GC Limited w/QD 4. 7ltr. On the front diff cover stamped on the flange it says 33oz + MF.

I'll try the parking lot deal today.

 

[Bob4x4]

Very likely the steering gear is failing... ... ... .