Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2000 Needs Some Luv

[GreenChiliSmuggler]

305,000 miles and running strong need some advice please.

2000' with 305K on a rebuilt 6 Speed transmission, New Marine Bosch Injectors, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Big Exhaust, FASS Lift Pump.


Need recommendations for the following:


1. Front End Suspension Rebuild Kit:

2. Turbo Charger Replacement:

3. Intercooler Replacement:

4. Radiator Replacement:


Relocated to the Phoenix area and and I am doing some preventive maintenance for heat issues. I do not have any death-wbble issues, the F.E. is just gotten soft over the years. Turbo......I want a responsive unit and I do Love a good Turbine Whine. Thanks for your help.

JD

 

[JR]

Why do you need to replace the radiator and intercooler? If you are having overheating issues you probably need to pull the radiator and give it a good degreasing. If your CCV is venting down by the front of the radiator then the vapors from the breather will plug the radiator solid eventually. Many people (myself included) simply extend the breather to vent behind the engine to keep the radiator clean. They also make closed loop systems if your willing to spend the money for one. Other than that the OEM radiator and intercooler are both pretty dang bullet proof and will support alot more horsepower than what you've got on tap.

For front end components, unfortunately there is not nearly as good a selection for the 2nd gens as there are for the 3rd gen trucks. After a lot of consideration I replaced my OEM ball joints with the MOOG problem solvers which is MOOGS top end line. Lifetime warranty and they are greasable. My OEM joints wore out because they dried up so for me the decision was easy to install something that was serviceable and there isn't much of a selection there. There are a lot of mixed reviews on the MOOG line for our trucks but I went with them anyway, only about 15k miles on them so far so time will tell if it was a mistake or not.
If your track bar is shot I would replace it with a 3rd gen trackbar conversion, they are an improved design over the 2nd gens. When mine goes that is what I will replace it with.

 

[GreenChiliSmuggler]

JR

Thank you for the reply. It is greatly appreciated.

Why do you need to replace the radiator and intercooler?

I did a Hot Soaked/Chem Wash on my OEM Radiator & IC and I was unable to get it to satisfactory level of newness. The Hot-Rodder market in Phoenix is impressive as are the radiator aftermarket solutions. I will continue looking in that area. I do love your suggestion to extend the inlet on the IC mouth. I'd appreciate a picture of yours if you could.

JR do you run a factory turbo? If not what aftermarket choice did you make?

I am researching the MOOG products based on your post. Do you have any opinions on air-bag systems? Any thoughts on aftermarket 4 wheel disc braking systems?


Cheers

JD

 

[VolsFan]

I agree with everything JR said. If doing tie rods I have had good luck with the lukes links, but for the track bar 3rd gen route is worth the money to go that way as JR says. I just pressure wash my radiators after soaking them down in purple power or simple green. Works for me. Some folks will say you shouldn't do that but have done it on numerous dodge trucks and tractors. Just don't do it close enough where you bend the fins of course

 

[JR]

When you say you did a chem wash, was this for the inside or the outside of the radiator?

The hose extension I was talking about is for the crank case vent. It is mounted on the gear case on the front of the engine, closer to the driverside and towards the top. It vents excess blow by from the engine and the fumes are oily in nature and will plug the exterior of the radiator over time. Unless it is EXTREMELY plugged it can be very difficult to tell how bad it really is without removing the radiator from the truck. The cooling systems on these trucks are quite robust and will keep coolant temps in check even when towing at max GVW in hot weather provided everything is functioning properly. It's just a suggestion, but I would recommend a good radiator cleaning (from the outside) and coolant flush, and an inspection of the water pump if you have any doubts about it before you spend big $$ on an aftermarket rad. If your still not satisfied you can always add it later.

I am currently running the OEM turbo but have an HE351 in the garage from a 6.7 Cummins. I have not yet finished piecing the rest of the kit together, other projects keep popping up. I personally have always been leery about switching to an aftermarket turbo for the simple fact increasing in size will generally create more turbo lag down low, and that makes for a poor tow rig. The HE351 I have is a vgt so it will still provide adequate boost at lower rpms but will move more air up top also. I'm sure others will chime in with some better suggestions then I can give you.

Rear air bags are good if you tow heavy to help keep the truck level. I've got a set of Firestone bags. They are a tad rough when empty, I'm contemplating adding a ping tank to soften the ride a little. What size tires do you run? Any suspension lift? Lifted trucks look good but they don't make for good tow rigs. I would love to find a complete rear axle with disc brakes but they're hard to come by and the few I've seen sell for a premium. I've heard some good things about the EGR conversion kits but no first hand experience, and they're really pricey. The most practical solution is to install a set of GM 1 ton wheel cylinders and keep your rears adjusted. Also, if you have the load sensing valve you can disconnect that and wire the arm up which will increase the brake line pressure to the rears.

 

[NIsaacs]

Relocated to the Phoenix area and and I am doing some preventive maintenance for heat issues.

JD

If there is any doubt about your radiator, just replace it, they are not expensive at all. The intercooler is a good one, save it if you can. What kind of heat issues do you have? Is it water temp or pyro or both? Make sure your fan clutch is good. What are your boost numbers? With your power level it is hard to improve on the oem turbo.

Nick

 

[GreenChiliSmuggler]

The hose extension I was talking about is for the crank case vent. It is mounted on the gear case on the front of the engine, closer to the driverside and towards the top. It vents excess blow by from the engine and the fumes are oily in nature and will plug the exterior of the radiator over time.

JR

Yes that is the culprit. It appears that the buildup is very deep and will require a second cleaning. I am having the hose extension accomplished also.

Nick

My water temps are up a bit after holding steady for the first 250,000 miles I will pursue a second cleaning of the stock radiator. With the Edge I usually run in power level 1 and get very mild readings. Level 3 I usually see 6-12 lbs of boost at 800-900 egt.

Looks like I will be procuring an OEM turbo and cleaning the radiator and IC. Plus running an extension for the fumes and gum from the crank case vent.

My local Diesel Shop is Pro-OEM for the Front End issues. So looks like we will replace all the rubber and the Ball Joints, Track Rod (modified Gen 3) and new coils and Bilsteins. How'd we do?


JD

 

[NIsaacs]

Nick
With the Edge I usually run in power level 1 and get very mild readings. Level 3 I usually see 6-12 lbs of boost at 800-900 egt.


JD

What are your boost and pyro numbers at WOT, pulling hard? The above numbers look like cruise numbers or you have a problem. Do you have a boost elbow?

Nick

 

[toomeyddt]

Moog.


Did you take the radiator out? That is critical if want to get it clean...I haven't been able to get thorough clean with it in truck. Had to replace due to crack in end tank, but kept it and cleaned it and going to "weld" the end tank (plastic - I hate it!) Core was still pristine inside....

 

[GreenChiliSmuggler]

Nick

Thanks again for your great response. I have not pulled anything requiring unusual stress on the motor in the last 3 years. My worst readings are pulling a boat in July in Phoenix 110 degrees OAT and the worst was 15 psi/ 990-1100 egt, 14-15 lbs of Fule Pressure.

Please educate me on the "boost elbow"


JD

 

[NIsaacs]

JD, with your power mods, injectors and Edge Juice you should pull 30psi boost at wot, say on an on ramp in 6th gear. The boost elbow should have come with the Edge but might not have been installed. It is adjustable or sometimes pre set and goes from the turbo outlet to the waste gate to restrict the flow and delay opening the waste gate, equals more boost.

Nick

 

[DMcLeod]

JD, I've got the Bosch RV injectors, and the boost elbow gave me 30# as stated. Regarding your front end: I also recommend 3rd gen track bar, and VR springs (Carli, KORE, others), 5100 series bilstein shocks. (Personally I would not use stock springs - there are better springs out there). Also, Simple Green makes a cleaner that is aluminum-safe for our aluminum radiators; be careful using the regular simple green (it is not to be used on aluminum).

 

[Tractorat]

I didnt see it mentioned above. Did you try changing the thermostat ? A couple of years ago my truck started to run hot and I did the best I could to clean the radiator. Not much help. So, I just replaced the stat with a cummins part number. Problem went away. Its been running cool ever since. A few years ago I had some work done on the engine. And at the same time, when they removed the radiator for the service, I had them really clean the radiator and replace the gunk bottle with a downward hose.