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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 clutch not disengaging

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2001 2500 with NV5600
South Bend MU1947 Con OFE installed 8/2006 at 40k
Clutch hydraulics replaced by dealer 7/2011 at 50k
Currently have 69k on the truck

Until 2 months (1000 miles) ago, clutch seemed to work fine. It would fully disengage when pedal was 2 inches or so above the floor. Rather suddenly, that changed - the clutch won't disengage unless the pedal is on the floor (i.e. pressed into the factory carpet, had to remove all floor mats). It's difficult to get it from neutral into any gear.

The only thing that happened between the two states is that my wife, who is not really comfortable driving my truck, drove it about 25 miles, with a few stops/starts.

I don't see any leaking hydraulic fluid. Pumping the pedal has no effect.

Ideas? Clutch gone (in < 30k!!!)? Hydraulics gone (again)?
 
When mine did that it wasn't long before the Pilot bearing in my flywheel went bad and it wouldn't disengage at all. Had to limp home 50 miles stopping engine at stop signs and lights.
 
Pedal, push rod, master cylinder, and slave cylinder all appear secure (though I didn't remove the slave to see if its piston is seated in the release fork).
 
Is there a plastic plate/piece about 1/4" thick on the end of the slave cylinder, where it bolts to the bell housing? If so, remove the slave cylinder, remove that piece of plastic, and put it back together. See if that fixes the issue.
It could be a bad slave cylinder, or something sticking in the clutch, like a throw-out bearing.
 
Is there a plastic plate/piece about 1/4" thick on the end of the slave cylinder, where it bolts to the bell housing? If so, remove the slave cylinder, remove that piece of plastic, and put it back together. See if that fixes the issue.
.

The plastic piece serves as a bearing surface reducing friction at the pushrod to fork connection. The fork also pivots on a ball stud with a non-metallic cap.

You're just removing a bearing surface, not advisable.
 
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