2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2001 wheels on a 1995

[JBoone]

I found some 2001 wheels off a 4x4 Dodge. I know they don't fit without some modification. But for 400. 00 dollars (wheels, lugs and centers--only 50 miles on all) is it worth the trouble of making them work on my 1995 4x4 truck??? I plan to run 305/70/16's or a little bigger.

TFATH - Thanks for all the help!!

 

[T-Bone]

JBoone,

I did the swap on my 1997. The only mod I had to do was turn the outside of the rear drums down a bit. I took the wheels and drums to a machine shop so they knew how much to take off. Labor was 1 hour and the material removed from the drum was not structural. Some others have mentioned trouble clearing the front brakes and/or tie rod ends. I had no problem there. I had the same apprehensions, but thought it was worth a try. I figured I could always sell them if they did not work out. I really like the look. The rims are 8 inches wide but do not cause the tires to stick out past the wheel wells.

T-Bone

 

[MikeR]

400 bucks is a rip off. These wheels are a dime a dozen... you shouldn't be paying more than $250 for a set.



You will need to maching down your rear drums so the wheels will fit, and you may need to trim notches the tie rods so the insides of the rims will clear when you have the steering wheel at full turns.



I have done this mod on one truck and I feel it is a waste of time. I figure it's better to have some personality in a truck and just go with some aftermarket wheels instead of a stock wheel.



-Mike

 

[Un-Hemi]

The one advantage of the factory alloys is that the 6-5/8" back spacing keeps the tires under the fenders. There are aftermarket wheels out there that are better looking than the factory's, but my $ are already into the factory alloys. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, Mike.



As a matter of fact, getting the drums measured and machined is this weekend's project, among others!



BTW, I got my wheels for less than $400. A lot less! That was the big factor for me: Most of the *good* aftermarket wheels that I found attractive were $300 to $500 CDN EACH! For the difference, I can buy some tires to put on 'em.



Has anyone found a good tool for popping the center caps off without damage?



Cheers!

 

[Thomas]

Tom—a brake spoon with a short piece of tubing to protect the rim will pop them right off.

 

[Un-Hemi]

Thanks, Thomas!

 

[Roger rodbolt]

I paid $200 for my 2001 wheels on the TDR Classified's but they were shipped individually which cost $$'s. I wouldn't do it again for a couple of reasons. After you turn down the rear drums there is only a tiny clearance on the brake backing plate. In slush and freezing weather or possibly in mud this could cause problems. I had to grind down the steering arms and tie rod end on the front but the wheels still rub on hard turns. I even put an extra wheel spacer on but still rubs. I just use the rims for my mud/sled pulling tires but I agree with MikeR that there are bargains to be had in the aftermarket wheels. The late model OEM alloy rims need to be spaced out 3/4 inch to fit older trucks. JMHO

 

[JBoone]

Thanks for the help!!! It looks like they could be a big pain or a little pain. You don't really know til you try to put them on. If I go with after-market wheels. What back space do I get? And I thought they were a bit pricey. Do I need to get forged aluminum for towing?

 

[SnoKing]

I am still looking for a set of these wheels in the Seattle area for my snow tires on my 2001. 5. Check the classifieds. SNOKING

 

[Mesenbrink]

On the 94-97 all you have to do is turn down the outside lip of the rear drums. Dodge changed some of the steering components in 98. On 98-99 you have to grind down the tie rod ends a little. 2000 and up came with the alloys as an option.