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2004.5 Ball Joint Replacement Question and Notes

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Hello,

In the process of replacing my ball joints on my 2004.5 Ram 2500 QC, LB, at 135k mi. The OEM ball joints are still in good shape and feel smooth; however, since I'm in the process of repalcing a slew of front end parts (wheel U-Joints, unit bearings, front pinion seal, etc) I'm goint to replace them anyway.

Front End Component Notes (@ 135k mi.):
1.) I purchased Raybestos "Professional Grade" 500-1117 (Upper) and 505-1131 (Lower). In all of the manufacturers pictures (Raybestos website) these ball joints looked to be NON-knurled. When I opened the box they were knurled. I'm not sure I want ot install knurled joints if I dont need them... Thus I'm looking for a high-quality alternative; I'm not sure I want to pony up $650 for dynatrac joints and I won't spend $800 on Carli, thats WAY too much money.
2.) The front axle wheel U-Joints were also in good shape; although the passenger side unit lookd to have a minor amount of water ingress (beginning of the end).
3.) Unit bearings were marginal, and had some rough spots but no real play to speak of. The were really rusted into the steering knuckle, had to use the power steering/socket trick to remove them.
4.) Front pinon seal was leaking, FYI - you can repalce the wear ring that fits arounf the front pinion yoke. Quad 4x4 had the war ring for sale in a seal kit.

Question:
1.) If I choose to avoid using the knurled Raybestos joints, for fear of forever having to install knurled units, what brands BESIDES DYNATRAC AND CARLI, are a good non-knurled joint?
2.) Is my fear of installing knurled joints legitamate? i.e. once you install a knurled joint you must foreve install a knurled joint for future repalcements?
 
Check with McQuay Norris but pretty sure the BJ's are not knurled, but, rather they grooves aid in installation. Due to the design of the axle getting the BJ's to start and install straight is a problem. The grooves were added to help keep things aligned. If you check the size of the base against the smooth ones they should be realtively close and not intended to take up slop in worn axles.
 
cereberusiam,

Thanks for the information, I'll check tonight. You are correct, technically the Raybestos units are "grooved" and not a "knurled" (or a raised metal diamond pattern). I placed an order for Moog Problem Solvers (K7460 Upper and K7467 Lower) in the mean time... The McQuay Norris/Raybestos lower joint has a grease zerk in the center of the top of the housing but it cannot be left in place with axles installed. It also has a plug for the zerk hole. The Moog K7467 has a low-angled grease zerk that is specifically intended for the AAM 9.25 front axle application and it can be left in place and easily accessed for greasing.

I'll comapre each when I recieve the Moog units.
 
Picture of the Moog's that you have ordered...

moog.jpg


moog.jpg
 
I got the Moogs to, works flawlessly and fit perfect into a not stretched Bore.

I'll see how long they last, use the truck a lot on gravel roads.
 
The McQuay Norris/Raybestos lower joint has a grease zerk in the center of the top of the housing but it cannot be left in place with axles installed.

Actually it can be installed and not hit the axles. Almost impossible to get a fitting on it to grease it though. The button head zerks would probably work better for that application or even the needle nose.
 
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