2004.5 Lift pump failure and alternate fix

[AEdelheit]

3 weeks ago my truck started surging and dies, 8pm, 15deg, snowy windy road. I inspected the wiring and fuses as best I could given the situation and ended up having it towed to Emerald bay. The next morning ,Saturday, I found no shops were open and they would not tow my truck to the dealer because my tires are too big. So I went to O'Rielly auto parts, got a inline diesel transfer pump and 25' of 3/8 fuel hose, zip tied the pump to my filter housing, wired it to my off road light relay, connected one end to my filter inlet and hooked the other to my stock fuel line. As I found out you cant really pull though a dead in tank pump, so I shoved a hose down the filler neck, zip tied it along the frame and fired it up, drove about 400mi to where I was headed and back home.



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I started researching my options and talked to a buddy that has worked for Cummins dealers a long time, extremely well educated on our engines, he got me in touch Ben at A2Z Diesel. After a long discussion I concluded the best solution is a stand alone FASS 95GPH adjustable pump and a Racor Aquablok 2 micron filter. The reason for the Racor is that they did a test and ran diesel through all the big brand fuel filters then boiled it, only one of the pots didint steam at all, the Racor, all others had some water in them! Its also a suction side filter meant to be between the tank and pump, this helps with the water speration because the pump can emulsify the water making it harder to filter. Ontop of all that its a 2micron filter and flows 90GPH so it will match the pump. So I orderd all the parts to start the work.



Now while I was waiting for all the parts to show I was going over stuff on my truck, planning it out and I found the reason for my LP failure! Right before the trip I installed an LED light bar, while hooking up the wire to the positive battery cable apparently a wire fell off and I didint notice it, the truck drove fine afterwards. Long story short is that Dodge converted some 03-05 to intank pumps, I had no idea mine got converted, they do not make any mention of it. Well they source power from the drivers battery, so first lesson learned is that if your intank LP dies, check the fused wire coming off your drivers side battery as that is the power for the LP and there is no mention of it anywhere in the manual or fuse panel. There is also a 2 wire connection above the filter housing that turns the relay on. Somehow my truck drove 2 hours, stopped for an hour, then drove another 2 hours before having problems, I have no clue how it pulled through the in tank pump but it apparently did. Here are some pictures of that wire and the relay



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I decided to install the new pump and filter for peace of mind. If your tank has a big plastic nut holding the fuel canister in the Liberty canister will not work, I dont know why not but this is what I was told, if there is a metal retaining ring then the Liberty canister is the easiest way to get rid of the intank pump. After dropping my tank and removing the canister I decided the easiest solution is to remove the stock LP and use a piece of brass pipe as the pick up tube since it wont be affected by diesel and submersible fuel hose is $25ft. I did end up drilling a few small homes at bottom of the canister to help fuel flow in, without the suction right on the screen and one way valve ive heard of issue running out of fuel as soon as the level is below the canister sides.



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Next I mounted the pump and filter, I choose to mount the filter above the rear axle, I have 1" spacers on my rear bump stops to clear my longer shocks so I had enough room to mount it to the bed cross member just rear of the axle, it should have almost 3" of clearance at full compression and is very well protected from harm unlike the traditional Fass and Air dog kits that hang outiside and below the frame rails. The pump got mounted on the next cross member forwards and routed the hosed so that fuel came out of the tank, through the filter, then pump, back into the stock lines and into the factory filter housing. I choose to do 90deg fittings off the pump, the Racor housing had 7 inlet/outlets so is very flexible plumbing. I used Dorman fittings to connect into the factory lines, I dont have the numbers but ill try to add them later. This location should clear a stock spare, if your not running a spare under the truck then you can mount it on the back side of the cross member to get more clearance from the axle.



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Finally I decided I wanted a fuel PSI gauge but not in the cab, I would have to add another holder and dont want my cab to look like an airplane cockpit so I put one on the inlet to my filter housing, since my inner fender liners are trimmed to fit my shocks I can just glance in and see my pressure if I need to. I got the gauge and inline fittings from Glacier diesel, used a piece of keystock to reinforce the hose to help with the wight of the gauge.



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[Bob4x4]

AAron you should have called me when the truck died. Could have saved you some time lol. When the retrofit pump kit gets added they should have put a sticker on top of the core support. The relay was not mounted in the correct location so I would guess it was not installed at a dealer



You might want to get a soft cover over that gauge dial it may get some pretty harsh conditions down there

 

[TCDiesel]

AEdelheit ,Add down stream Pressure regulator with bypass to Tank,That way you will be filtering More fuel and You can run your lift Pump ar 100% capacity adding to the life of the pump,ALL CR Dodge trucks Pumps have lift ability, if the GP can pull through your system it will run,its when you loose the prime it will NOT start, A shot of either will get it up and running if NO restriction exist,So add a couple of Valve to you system and if the electronic Pump fails you can switch feeds and the truck will run WITHOUT the lift Pump.





On edit: Ben believes in that filer, I think its good for warm climates,I like that fact you kept the factory can in Place,I see NO need to remove it unless you need the space. Its easily modded to support 1000hp if necessary.

 

[Bob4x4]

AEdelheit ,Add down stream Pressure regulator with bypass to Tank,That way you will be filtering More fuel and You can run your lift Pump ar 100% capacity adding to the life of the pump,ALL CR Dodge trucks Pumps have lift ability, if the GP can pull through your system it will run,its when you loose the prime it will NOT start, A shot of either will get it up and running if NO restriction exist,So add a couple of Valve to you system and if the electronic Pump fails you can switch feeds and the truck will run WITHOUT the lift Pump.


On edit: Ben believes in that filer, I think its good for warm climates,I like that fact you kept the factory can in Place,I see NO need to remove it unless you need the space. Its easily modded to support 1000hp if necessary.

I have rescued many if that era CTDs from the road side with a bypass.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Great write-up.

 

[Bill Stockard]

When the retrofit pump kit gets added they should have put a sticker on top of the core support. The relay was not mounted in the correct location so I would guess it was not installed at a dealer.

Yep, that's what I thought too when looking at the photos. It certainly wasn't installed like mine. The local dealer tech who installed my retro lift pump kit had completed dozens of them and did a very professional looking installation on my truck.



Bill

 

[RVTRKN]

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The last photo of the gauge has me worried, I use the same liquid filled gauges with different pressure ratings for HVAC manifolds/gauges, and that little black cap with the yellow handle is designed as a ball valve type operation, to equalize the pressure within the gauge itself when you open it, for the different pressures at different elevations. THEY LEAK, FALL OFF, AND THE GAUGE ITSELF IS KNOWN TO LEAK AT THE BASE. Sorry, I didn't mean to yell, just trying to get the point across. I know, because I own a very hard to get bottle of the liquid used for my gauges. I plan to replace them with electronic LCD type gauges which cost a lot of money. ($500. 00+) I own a pair of the new gauges now, but there for the new refrigerants that have a different oil than the older refrigerants, and you can't mix them. Back on subject, if you own an iPhone/smartphone, I have started to acquire the necessary sending units via wifi that I posted about in past posts and threads if your interested, it also doubles as a DTC reader. If your interested open the link www.plxdevices.com click on sensor modules.

 

[AEdelheit]

Ya I was wondering how well the gauge will hold up, I'm keeping a real close eye on it and have spare line in the truck if I need to remove it, thanks for the heads up though!

OMB: I actually was going to call you but don't have your number anymore so I called Jeremy

 

[RVTRKN]

I purchased the PLX wifi for my iPhone so I could read and erase codes, but with the PLX, you can daisy chain up to 16 modules, so I have an EGT module on the way and will be going through the G56 when I convert the DMF and SB DD3250 and install temp sensors for the G56, transfer case and both pumpkins. There is no need for gauges all over the interior, just set up what screen and gauges you want to monitor from your phone. I already have the iPhone mounted on my dash due to no Aux jack, because I have the Nav radio, I had to install the Lockpic so I could use the the VES on the nav radio as an Aux, but it also gave me the ability to use the PLX and the screen of the Nav as a monitor.

 

[seafish]

I know, because I own a very hard to get bottle of the liquid used for my gauges. I plan to replace them with electronic LCD type gauges which cost a lot of money.

Sorry, slightly off topic, but what kind of fluid IS used to fill those gauges??

... I have a nice one on a pump on my ranch and would like to refill it, as it IS leaking... . is it possible to fix the leak at the base and then refill it, or is it better to get another gauge???

 

[AEdelheit]

Very nice setup! I might just do a low pressure light, don't really care about the exact pressure as much as just knowing I have enough.

I don't know what the gauges are filled with but there only like $15 to buy.

 

[Wayne M.]

I have the same R90 filter I scored at a swap meet with the intention of doing a similar install. I have a 04. 5 with the external lift. Wondering if its strong enough to pull through that filter. I was just going to splice it in under the drivers seat area.
Do you think you'll need a heater? Racor is the best. Wait till you crack that drain and see what comes out!

 

[seafish]

I don't know what the gauges are filled with but there only like $15 to buy.

I know, but I am hardwired to rebuild older, better quality parts then replace with low quality "new" parts.
Besides, I was JUST trying to figure out the other day what the dam fluid they put in those gauges actually is... figured it is some sort of silicone oil, but who knows??

 

[TCDiesel]

O those gages last 1 start @ -20 & POP!!! fuel all over the place, But I don't think the OP has to worry about temps Unless he travels,Be-careful of ALL china made fittings, @-20 they shake and brake. ugh.

 

[Bob4x4]

O those gages last 1 start @ -20 & POP!!! fuel all over the place, But I don't think the OP has to worry about temps Unless he travels,Be-careful of ALL china made fittings, @-20 they shake and brake. ugh.

His truck quite on the road to Tahoe IIRC in a snow storm

 

[RVTRKN]

The fluid is Glycerin or also known as Glycerol.

 

[seafish]

The fluid is Glycerin or also known as Glycerol.

Thanks!!!!

Is this it... http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-detail/CVS-Pure-Glycerin-USP?skuId=483707


PS--to the OP, NICE work notes write-up... sorry about the mini hijack.

 

[RVTRKN]

Probably, I just know the gauge manifold manufacture states they are glycerin filled and the bottle I have just says glycerin. If you look up the definition it also is known as glycerol and has a pharmaceutical use.

 

[BDaugherty]

Just a side note on the handy little Mr Gasket parts store fuel pump: the gold colored inlet fitting has a fairly fine filter inside it. I've installed and repaired quite a few of those pumps on skid steers, farm tractors, and mini excavators. Most folks don't know the filter is there and assume the pump has died when it stops moving fuel.

 

[AEdelheit]

I have the same R90 filter I scored at a swap meet with the intention of doing a similar install. I have a 04. 5 with the external lift. Wondering if its strong enough to pull through that filter. I was just going to splice it in under the drivers seat area.

Do you think you'll need a heater? Racor is the best. Wait till you crack that drain and see what comes out!

I have no clue if a stock external pump can pull through a filter, that would be a nice setup if it does! I dont need a fuel heater, where I live it might get into the teens a few times a year but normally our lows are in the 30's and do a few trips to the snow but nothing too extreme.