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2005 transmission problem

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p2149

one piece driveshaft

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After sitting a while I must let engine idle for a few minutes before truck will move. If i put it in drive before i let it sit and idle it's as if there is no transmission-Let sit for a couple minutes, Then it will work right
 
I'm guessing that you've checked the transmission fluid level - remember to check it while the engine is running, its warm, and the trans is in neutral.



So it acts like the trans is slipping, then it hooks up? Can you start off in manual low gear and it works OK, then shift to D when its rolling and it works as normal?



If so, and assuming your fluid level is good, I'm guessing you need to replace the transmission pressure transducer sensor and the governer solenoid. Your Dodge dealer will get between $450 and $600 parts / labor / fluids to get you back rolling again.



The part numbers and dealer prices for a YM 2004 48RE are:

pressure transducer sensor: 56028196AD - $110

Transmission governer solenoid: 4617210 - $152



Your 2005 may have different part numbers.
 
My 99's 47RE did this, at least until I replaced it with an ATS unit.



Try setting the brake and putting it in neutral. Then start it. Now the oil will flow through the valve body from the start. This would stop the problem on my stock 47RE.



Mac:cool:
 
My old 94 did this and I noticed my 2005 does this. I just assumed the fluid settled in the bottom. I put the gear in reverse and drive a couple times to circulate the fluid. only takes a couple seconds.
 
My 96 V-10 dually with the 47RE did this after sitting for a few weeks or more. Fluid drains out of the torque converter over long periods of non-use. The 47RE did not circulate transmission fluid in Park, but a few seconds idling in Neutral would refill the torque converter, and everything was normal after that. It was just the nature of the beast.



Rusty
 
After sitting a while I must let engine idle for a few minutes before truck will move. If i put it in drive before i let it sit and idle it's as if there is no transmission-Let sit for a couple minutes, Then it will work right



How long is "a while"? Minutes? Hours? Days? Weeks?



Your trans has several features that will limit TC drain back over short periods. Since it doesn't circulate fluid in park 30 seconds in neutral with the engine running should charge the TC adequately.



If it exhibits this behaviour over minutes after being shutoff there is quite likely an internal problem causing the drain back.



However, if this happens overnoght or days or weeks its pretty normal.



A quick fix is a Sonnax manual valve in the VB to promote fluid flow in park then you can remove the drain back valve which is a know restriction and failure point.
 
I used a Sonnax manual valve and lube regulated pressure regulator valve in my A518/46RH first gen. Solve the above problem in it... albeit a different trans. My Ram 1500 545RE does this. Dealer tried installing a revised filter (there were two inside) and it helped only a little. Some days it will stall after 5 minutes... other days it won't do it ever. Parking on slopes seems to make it worse... then sometimes it don't matter. I dunno.
 
It could be the check valve in the transmission cooling line that went south on you. Some guys have removed these to increase flow through the cooler and that is the same issue.
 
My 04. 5 has only 54,000 miles on it and i experience a similar symptom, but it only does it if it has been sitting, cold and I just start it and try to go. If I let the truck warm up, I don't have the problem, does yours do it if you let it sit and idle a bit first?
 
Just start it up and pop it into neutral for a few seconds. The pump runs when the trans is in neutral. Also, if you're idling for a long period, you might sit with it in neutral too.
 
2003 auto cooling line nightmare

Both trans cooling lines to the cooler were corroded. I able to wiggle the top one out but, the bottom one (longer, all the way to the trans. ) broke at a corrosion spot. I'm trying to install the new one all day! It has so many twists and turns it won't go in. I have the following out: starter, front driveshaft, intake tube, battery, washer bottle, and a host of disconnected wiring. Anybody done this before????
 
Yes, I remove the Hood ,then left wheel, remove plastic liner (8 8mm) remove left light,remove Battery,remove TIPM (8 harness style connectors) under TIPM,remove Battery Tray,Unhook Battery sensors,Un hook the connectors at ABS module, remove the 3 forward bolts & 2 bolts inside door then remove left 1/4 Panel. disconnect lines and replace,I would replace the side mounted pump,if over 5 years old.
 
At one point I was so close to having it but, it was just too kinked up. I slightly straigtened the bends near the bracket that is mounted on a stud at the motor mount. Once in place I gave them a little bend back by hand. I didn't have to take any more parts off the truck but, I did have to jack the truck up a little on the left side. What a pain in the a___!
 
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