Here I am

2005 U-Joints

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Dodge Dealer Fuel Pump Relo. Kit

low power

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have a 2005, 3500 dually. I had a u-joint go out with 24k miles on it and then again with 32k miles and now for a third time with 52k miles on it. . And Dodge won't fix it under warranty because it has been more than 12k miles since the last fix. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Jeff
 
Yep, a common problem. The OEM joints are junk and the common aftermarket replacement is either Precisions or Spicers (which nobody can agree on the spicer part #s) Both are greaseable and the Precisions are available from Rock Auto (part # 351 for the manual transmission and are about $23. 00 each. )
 
Why is there no recall for this problem?? Or why is it Dodge won't fix them when they should know they have a problem??? Thanks Jeff
 
I have a question? How do you guys know when the joints are bad? I've got almost 50K miles on my '05. I also drive it like I stole it every day, almost since new. I gave it 500-800 miles to break in I think??? :-laf It even had 315 BFG for about 5K miles then I went down to 285, but I don't feel anything wrong and I'm a car guy? What does it feel like? is there any noise or sound when they go bad. I've physically looked at them all front rear, center etc about 100 times but everything look good.



-Ryan
 
The factory joints are AAM. I talked to a second in command engineer with AAM. He said the joint failures was NEW news to him. I said do what? Its pretty common on the forums. He called me back the next day after getting the facts on warranty claims from D. C. on u/joints. Gave me this fraction of less the 1% deal and stated that they(AAM) considered THEIR joints superior to Splicers etc. I thought I had a joint problem on mine. Only way to tell was pull them apart. No wear,full of grease etc. I put Splicers back in. I've known three other friends with these trucks that have put over 150k on them with no joint issues when trucks traded in for new ones. Its confusing as AAM records show very very few joints warrantied. He went on to tell me that D. C. wanted a beefier drivetrain then the other two big manufactures and that was the reason for the reuseable diff. gaskets,service interval,axel size etc. The axels,shafts,u/joints are all AAMs.
 
Ryan,



When mine have gone bad the truck will shake real bad usually at low speeds like from 5-10 MPH feels like your going over some rummble strips on the road or something. Right now it isn't doing that but it was a week ago and stopped now it is vibrating when i step on the gas...
 
I had my u-joints replaced at about 38-40,000 miles. There was a terrible shudder/vibration in the drive train at about 35mph and again at 55-60mph. There was a howl assiocated with the vibrations at highway speeds. The first time it happened I checked the torque on all of my lug nuts and had my tired balanced but no change. I took it to the dodge dealer and they replaced the u-joints, problem solved. I have a heavy foot, but dont spin my tires or anything like that. I have a 6-spd with jake brake and downshift all the time, I cant imagine that would put a huge strain on the drive train but something wore them out. I didnt replace them with aftermarket. The dealer just replaced them with oem.
 
Yup ! Just happened to me today after work. 25k miles and got the classic shudder and shake at the mph's listed. Called dealership and he knew EXACTLY what was wrong over the phone. Told me that it was very common, especially at my mileage. Going in Thursday for a look and/or replacement. Will let all know how it went.
 
Add me to the list at 49k. Last Friday the center one went out. Rear axle bouncing like a basketball at under 20mph. Replaced all 3 joints with Precision 351's which are a greasable joint.

Just for kicks, we ordered a OE joint from a nearby DC dealer. It was much beefier then the original joint, still a non greaseable joint and it was made by Spicer according to the stamp on the joint. Sent it back and got the $75. 20 back.

The 351's were still a better made joint it appeared.
 
All you guys are 6speed trucks... any thoughts as if this might make a difference?





I replaced EVERY joint in my truck by 72k...



They were all either failed or failing... anyone that says "I have XX miles with no troubles", just wait, your turn will come before 100k. I'm not aware of too many people that haven't replaced joints by 100k??



steved
 
If it was primarily a six speed problem that might explain the low overall failure rate that DPKetchum mentioned in his post. If I'm not mistaken I believe the majority of trucks sold are the auto's. The six speed does transfer all those diesel pulses directly to the U joints, in the auto the U joints are cushioned by the slippage in the torque converter except when it's locked up and that's normally when you are rolling along at higher speeds.
 
I just bought my truck a month ago, and the dealer replaced ALL the U-joints when they took it in on trade. 69k miles.
 
I have 9k o0n my truck and have had a slight shudder at ~15-20mph since 3k. I read somewhere that this was a problem on 3500s that needed a shim installed. It has not bothered be enough to fix yet besides the fact that I hate to go to the dealer...
 
A friend has an '05 auto single cab and he's already replaced his once and it just started vibrating again. Auto's are not exempt. (wouldn't want you guys to feel left out!:-laf )
 
Last edited:
I have an audible chirp when I pull out that comes from under the truck and a faint clunk, clunk, clunk only when going in reverse and I was thinking this may be the u-joint, anybody else experience this? Maybe spring noise with the chirp but I don't know about the clunk. Thanks, Jay
 
I have an audible chirp when I pull out that comes from under the truck and a faint clunk, clunk, clunk only when going in reverse and I was thinking this may be the u-joint, anybody else experience this? Maybe spring noise with the chirp but I don't know about the clunk. Thanks, Jay





The squeeking sounds like a siezing ujoint...



steved
 
There are a couple symptoms that can occur. If the u-joints on a drive shaft start to go there will be a high frequency vibration. If the outer u-joints go bad it will cause the steering wheel to shake the same way it does when you take a sharp corner when it is in 4x4. This may be intermittent on a truck with hubs disengaged. Another way to avoid getting caught off guard is to inspect the u-joints at the cross where the seal is, on a greaseable joint this will be where the grease purges out. If the joint is going bad you may see red powder (rust) in that area. Now is the time to replace. I had a joint seize 60 miles from home and was barely drivable and also broke the locking hub on my 1990.



Tim
 
There are a couple symptoms that can occur. If the u-joints on a drive shaft start to go there will be a high frequency vibration. If the outer u-joints go bad it will cause the steering wheel to shake the same way it does when you take a sharp corner when it is in 4x4. This may be intermittent on a truck with hubs disengaged. Another way to avoid getting caught off guard is to inspect the u-joints at the cross where the seal is, on a greaseable joint this will be where the grease purges out. If the joint is going bad you may see red powder (rust) in that area. Now is the time to replace. I had a joint seize 60 miles from home and was barely drivable and also broke the locking hub on my 1990.



Tim





My rear d-shaft joints started squeeking over 3k miles before the vibrations started...



And the red powder isn't a good indicator as I had "red powder" on my dad's truck when we pulled his balljoints at 86k and I thought the same as you, got some spares in... at 258k, the spares are still sitting on the shelf... these were spicers though...



steved
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top