2006 5.9 no start

[GrantP]

Need some help here guys. Truck was running fine this morning and has been mostly trouble free for the time I've owned it. I loaded up the family in it this morning and it started and ran for 2 or 3 seconds and died. Tried again, same thing. Rail pressure would come up to 7k where it's always been at idle when it was running. After the 5th try it won't start at all. I have not had any hint of any problems prior to this, it has always run great.

To be clear it turns over fine but doesn't run.

I have no codes. The engine is bone stock, no tuner ever.

I changed both fuel filters thinking it was a fuel supply issue. Both filters were completely unremarkable and clean enough to probably reuse but I changed them anyway. The fuel I drained looked clean. Did the bump of the starter to prime the system and the factory in tank fuel pump filled up both filters so it is working. Fuel level is 1/4 tank so I would think if it was bad fuel on the last fill that would've shown up a long time ago.

Could a bad FCA do this? Wouldn't it throw a code? I'm at a total loss here. Thanks in advance.

 

[GrantP]

I should add that I've also tried using both of my keys thinking maybe it was a security thing, no change.

 

[seafish]

Your on the right track...your symptoms DO seem to be either a fuel or a key security condition.

In terms of fueling, I would definitely add some clean diesel to get full over a 1/4 tank...on older trucks the plastic in tank canister filter can substantially get plugged up at the lower levels and not allow fuel to pass.

That said, if it is consistently dying after a consistently short run time, do look at the key/security issue deeper. Maybe replace a fob battery to see if that fixes the problem at least with one key??

If it is not the key fob then perhaps it is the module that reads the fob.

 

[GrantP]

Well I disconnected the batteries and let the truck sit for a while. I reconnected them and everything is back to normal, it runs/drives fine. I don't know if that's a "fix" or not but at least I think I have a truck to drive to work tomorrow. I do think it has something to do with the security system. I bought new batteries for my key fobs just in case that had anything to do with it. But after disconnecting/reconnecting the truck batteries it started fine with the old battery in the fob.

I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about this "fix". Maybe the truck batteries are getting weak but they are only 2 years old. I guess I can scratch off fuel filter maintenance at least.

Days like today make me miss my 12V (raise solenoid, drive on).

 

[DavidC]

Yeah, things like that can haunt you. There are so many electronic parts in new vehicles it's scary when things like that happen and you can't pin it down.

 

[GrantP]

Just noticed that neither key fob will lock/unlock the doors now but both will start the truck, at least the truck runs.

Is there some programming process that needs to be done after replacing a key fob battery to get it to communicate with the truck?

 

[AH64ID]

There is an issue with the 06’s and starter current draw. This requires a reprogram to clear the issue.

I’ll look into it more tomorrow, but I recall the issue on dad’s 06. I specifically recall the repair procedure stating that if disconnecting the batteries fixed the issue then the problem was not fixed.

 

[GrantP]

Thanks John. Disconnecting the batteries shouldn't have fixed anything IMO...but it's running (for now) just with the minor inconvenience of inoperable key fobs. I'm sure there's more to this.

 

[sag2]

It sounds like a textbook SKIM out. The key would have been looking for the little round red light on the dash flashing.

 

[GrantP]

It sounds like a textbook SKIM out. The key would have been looking for the little round red light on the dash flashing.

Stan, can you elaborate a little? The truck is running but the lock/unlock functions on the fob's don't work now after replacing the batteries in both sets of keys. Was the shutdown symptom caused by dead key fob batteries? They were the original batteries as far as I know.

I'm assuming there is some programming/reset that has to be done to the fobs now. Is that a DIY job or a trip to the dealer?

Thanks for chiming in.

 

[DavidC]

Maybe this ?
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2006-...ss-entry-remote-fob-programming-instructions/

 

[GrantP]

Maybe this ?
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2006-...ss-entry-remote-fob-programming-instructions/

Thanks David, but I think I'm SOL on step 1.

"You will need at least two (2) working remote head or transponder keys in order to perform this procedure yourself without the help of a Professional."

Neither of the fobs I have will lock/unlock the doors, although either will start the truck.

 

[sag2]

A SKIM out is when the WIN/WCM and ECM don't make the proper handshake. The truck will start and dies in about two seconds. After several attempts it will no longer crank and the little round red light on the dash will be on. Pulling the WCM fuse or disconnecting the batteries will sometimes sync them again. There are most likely multiple fault codes (B1A28, 9, A) in the WIN, and possibly in the ECM. The dealer scan tool will be required to to relearn the VIN, or add the fobs back into the WCM, unless it has failed completely.

 

[Joshcosh]

Hello not sure if this is how this works but I've been having issues with my 06 5.9 starting as well. I've replaced my in tank fuel pump and my fuel lines. Getting plenty of fuel to the CP3 But not enough fuel rail pressure to start I get to 1000 PSI may be a little more. No problems running no problems at idle. If I remove the supply line to the CP3. turn the key and let fuel flow then reconnect I get about 3 to 5 good starts out of it and then the problem continues.

 

[sag2]

It sounds like you are getting air in the lines. Can you put a piece of clear hose between the filter and CP3? Filter O'ring good?

 

[Cloudmaster Don]

Several times in the first few years of driving my 2006 2500HD I had the same problem. I was baffled and irritated. Turns out it may have been a SKIM key problem. A dealer's parts guy said that it could be that the near proximity of my wife's key had caused an electronic cross-talk problem that disabled the run circuit. (I think that's the correct terminology - not sure.) He suggested the next time it happens I send my wife and her key for a short walk while I try to start the truck again. Fortunately, we have not had the problem since, but if past experience is any indication of future behavior, I expect to have to try this trick some day. You, on the other hand have the opportunity to do so right now. Lucky you... (OOPS! I now see the date of this post.)

 

[Joshcosh]

Still an issue though. I have checked and cleaned out lines up to the CP3 no air or leaks. Cleaned and lubed some of the ports on the CP3 worked for a bit. The key issue is stsrting to make sense. I had an issue with my truck not starting some time ago, read about needing my computer flashed.. didnt got that route. I bypassed the ignition and took pwr from batter through a switch in my cab, and directly to the starter. So long as the keys in the ignition in the on position yhe truck starts. Probably the cause of my issue. Ive also noticed my lift pump dosent kick until i hit my start switch.. it should kick on to prim once i turn rhe key though. Hmm