2006 G56 5.9

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

New to TDR so hello and thanks for any and all recommendations in advance.

My question to all is, what would be the best tried and true combination of Cam, Turbo, Head and Intake? I want top of the line parts no Chinese Amazon crap lol can't believe people really buy that stuff for there engines....
I pull about 26000 lbs once a month but lighter loads more regular. Not looking to race but would like to have the power when needed.

Thank you

 

[NIsaacs]

A set of tunes or tuner will get you 400/900 to the ground all day long, any more and you might stress the G-56. I would not add all the hard parts unless you really want them. I do recommend an exhaust brake.

 

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

Thank you, do you have a tune combo you recommend?

 

[AEdelheit]

I have been super happy with the Fleece Cheetah turbo on my 06 , FYI.... and yes exhaust brakes are great too.

 

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

Thanks, any certain size and will I need to upgrade injectors with the Fleece Cheta turbo?

 

[AEdelheit]

Thanks, any certain size and will I need to upgrade injectors with the Fleece Cheta turbo?

This is the one I got https://www.fleeceperformance.com/t...urbocharger-for-2004-5-2007-5-9l-cummins.html , currently running stock injectors but will support a support larger injectors. As noted earlier the G56 is a bit fragile so I wouldnt run crazy power with it.

 

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

Nice.... going to order tomorrow.

* G56 What is the issue with the G56?
* NV5600 Is this the better transmission? And if so is it because of the durability of the transmission housing?

 

[Ozymandias]

I run a Smarty JR that gives me 390/915 on the Dyno.
Engine is bone stock.

Drop a PacBrake in with the safed money - best upgrade you can spend money on!

 

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

Nice... I'll definitely look at this option. I also have a 2012 6.7 3500 that I run the Smarty Sr on and have been pleased with it. I also have a 2016 6.7 3500 mega cab that I just purchased a RevMax 700 transmission for not sure of the program as it was already tuned when I bought it, but will find out when I go to set line pressure for 5th and 6th gear.

 

[AH64ID]

You can go from mild to wild, but I really liked my Hamilton 178/208, BBi Stage 1’s, and garret Stage 2 turbo that were on my 05. I dyno’d 415/850 with the setup and could tow at 20Klbs up a grade at 7K feet on a 70° day and not worry about EGT’s in 6th at 70. I ran the Smarty Jr for a long time, the S06, UDC, and UDC Pro. The dyno numbers aren’t the only important factor, as they all could make about the same power but the driveability and EGT control was vastly different. I did all my own tuning.

Dad’s 06, with a G56, had 100hp nozzles and a modified stock turbo. It was running around 350/750, never dyno’d just experience based on fuel and lots of timing, and was a towing beast with the AD ratio G56. He started with a Smarty Jr, but ran my tuning once the motor was rebuilt.

Both those built motors had 03/04 style pistons and nozzles.

If I were to setup a stock 06 for towing, sometimes heavy, and I wasn’t doing a full rebuild I keep it fairly simple.

- BBi Stage 1 injectors
- Modified HE351, stock compressor wheel with a HE351VE turbine wheel
- GDP Intake horn
- Home Depot CAI
- Southbend Con-OHD clutch
- Custom tuning… you’ll need less duration than stock to optimize the power with those injectors for towing, but it’s a great setup.

Exhaust brake is a must, and will effect turbo options.

If you’re doing a full rebuilt then I can give a different list.

I wouldn’t recommend any larger injector with increased duration for towing heavy, you want a shorter injection event.

I run a Smarty JR that gives me 390/915 on the Dyno.
Engine is bone stock.

Drop a PacBrake in with the safed money - best upgrade you can spend money on!

That’s a lot more torque than I ever dyno’d with a SJR. The SJR is a great simple box that doesn’t increase duration, but rather uses more of the stock duration table.

All uncorrected, at 2700' and 95* ambient air temp.
Stock: 284/519
SW1 TM4 TQ2: 296/610
SW1 TM2 TQ2: 290/591
SW3 TM4 TQ2: 382/703
SW3 TM2 TQ2: 383/708

Corrected
Stock: 324/592
SW1 TM4 TQ2: 338/695
SW1 TM2 TQ2: 328/675
SW3 TM4 TQ2: 436/802
SW3 TM2 TQ2: 438/809

 

[Inspirator G56 5.9]

Ok this is all great stuff and I am greatful for the knowledge, I am pulling the motor and will be sending to a local machine shop here in TX, Ted's Machine shop in Conroe TX, very well known in the area. So a recipe for a new rebuild would be great. I do a lot of long distance driving, anywhere from 2-6 hrs one way and not always towing heavy, I have a 2016 ram 3500 for the real heavy. Best combo for daily driver with great power when needed on new motor build. Thank you I'll send some pics when pulled out and as it's going back together.

 

[Ozymandias]

@AH64ID

I actually never played around with the SW's - I always used the 3 programs - Fuel safer, Towing and Performance with the default settings like they come from Smarty.

Should I play around for even better results??

 

[NIsaacs]

Thank you, do you have a tune combo you recommend?

I don't. I have never owned a 3rd gen but my 3 sons have each had several, all tuned, all dependable runners. The common rail likes to run.

See post #10, he can help you. So can #6 and #8, they can help.

Sounds like you are going to build a serious Cummins. Your choices are endless.

One thing I do know, the 3 gen has the smallest intake horn of all the generations. Be sure and address that.

Following this build.

 

[AH64ID]

If I were to build another 5.9 I'd probably go this route, based on what I've tried and used in the past.

- QSB 480 pistons
- 03/04 BBi Stage 1 injectors (I did 500 rwhp on stock duration tables and my tow tune was ~80% of stock and made a very cool 415rwhp)
- MM3 with UDC Pro tuning ~425rwhp normal tow tune and a ~350rwhp heavy tow tune.
- Hamilton Cams 178/208 24V Camshaft combo
- ARP 425's
- Fully balanced and blueprinted
- Fluidamper
- GDP Air-Boss & Power Flow intake
- ATS exhaust manifold
- Fleece Cheetah (really liked my Stage 2 garret, but it's been discontinued) 400-450+ rwhp or the modified HE351 for 350-375 rwhp.
- S&B dry filter intake (prefer HD on OEM, but the Airaid MIT appears to be out of production)
- Upgraded filtration, minimum DBF5814/FF5814 on intake horn and PF7977 in the OEM canister. Shouldn't need an upgraded lift pump below 500 rwhp.
- PacBrake PRXB
- Full organic southbend clutch. The OHD is rated for 425/900 and 20K towing, if more clutch was needed I'd go with the full organic DD rated at 550/1100 and 30K towing. I didn't like the OFE in my NV5600 nearly as much as the OHD behind dad's G56. I prefer single disk's, but DD's do have their place.
- 75w-90 GL4 in the G56 (i.e. Amsoil MTG)

At the power levels you should be at for heavy towing with the G56 I don't think there is any need for twins, aftermarket lift pumps, CP3 upgrades, intercooler upgrades, or oversized intake manifolds, or head work.

There are certainly cheaper ways to make those power levels, but that's a combo that would run very smooth and cool on hot days at any elevation while living a long time (driver skill not considered).

@AH64ID

View attachment 139250

I actually never played around with the SW's - I always used the 3 programs - Fuel safer, Towing and Performance with the default settings like they come from Smarty.

Should I play around for even better results??

Nice numbers, I wonder why the big difference in torque. That was also a lot later that I dyno'd mine, so maybe the software was updated. The default settings are fine, but I would play with timing for smoke and haze at elevation. If it runs good and doesn't smoke then it's probably set right.

 

[CVR222NV]

I followed roughly the same build as recommended by @AH64ID above. Below is the thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/remanufactured-engines.270376/

See post 31.

Here is the final set up for the build:

a. 5.9L Dodge Cummins 24V 480hp QSB/Industrial (’03-’04 Bowl Style) Pistons

b. CERAMIC COATED PISTON CROWNS AND DRY FILM COATED SKIRTS (this was required by DFC Diesel)

c. Total Seal Rings with a gapless second ring

d. GEN 2 OEM Forged Cummins Rods

e. ARP series 2000 head studs

f. Colt Cams Stage 3 camshaft

g. Hamilton Cams 103lb HD valve springs

h. Manton HD push rods

i. Rockers from a 6.7 engine as they have a cross cut pin for better lubrication and use an updated tip we also add more clearance between the pin and rocker

j. New SBI valves, cast guides, oversized valve seats and seals

k. Big Iron 5.9/6.7 ENGINE OIL COOLER

l. Bolt in rear aluminum freeze plug

m. Balanced rotating assembly

n. Blueprinted cylinder block

o. Big Iron Oil Pan

p. Industrial Injection +33% CP3 Injection Pump

q. PDI Exhaust Manifold – 20% over stock

r. BBI Stage 1 Injectors – MY03

s. Holset HE351CW Upgrade – Billet Compressor wheel: 62.45 x 86 x 90 mm; turbine housing and wheel 67 mm x 76 mm

DFC Diesel of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada did my build and we could not get the Hamilton cam so went with Colt State 3 which came real close to the Hamilton cam specifications. I note that to balance the rotating assembly you will have to change to Gen 2 forged rods as I understand that the OEM motor used what are called cracked cap rods that can't be balanced. I also installed the Fluidamper. Motor runs really smooth. I do need to get it on a dynamometer so I can't tell you where I am on horsepower and torque are but it is very strong.

 

[AH64ID]

I reused the CR fractured rods with my balanced assembly. I’m not sure how they balanced the whole thing thou, maybe they did the adjustments on the crank for the rods.