2006 RAM Transmission Issues

[HeartnSoulman]

Yesterday something happened to my transmission and I only have reverse. I am thinking if I have to rebuild or replace the transmission I would like to put in something from the aftermarket industry. Does anyone have any recommendations?

I have a 2006 Dodge RAM 2500 4x4 Diesel 5.9 with 147600 miles.

 

[Ozymandias]

Shouldn't be needed at such a low milage.
Ballpark is that something inside the valve body is stuck.
Let it examine before making decisions.

 

[DavidC]

This is from my 99 47RE and for reference

NO DRIVE RANGE
(REVERSE OK)
1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is
restored.
2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable
Loose/Misadjusted.
2. Repair or replace linkage components.
3. Rear Clutch Burnt. 3. Remove and disassemble transmission
and rear clutch and seals. Repair/replace
worn or damaged parts as needed.
4. Valve Body Malfunction. 4. Remove and disassemble valve body.
Replace assembly if any valves or bores
are damaged.
5. Transmission Overrunning Clutch
Broken.
5. Remove and disassemble transmission.
Replace overrunning clutch.
6. Input Shaft Seal Rings Worn/
Damaged.
6. Remove and disassemble transmission.
Replace seal rings and any other worn or
damaged parts.
7. Front Planetary Failed Broken. 7. Remove and repair.

 

[jghflys]

I had to rebuild mine at 90K. I do a lot of heavy towing. I used heavy duty linings on bands, but otherwise stock. The best upgrade I made for the transmission is a Banks heavy duty lockup torque converter, with lockups and shifting modified by a Banks econominder controller. In my opinion, the torque converter saves the transmission by locking up tightly and minimizing stress on the transmission. Banks is only one of the many out there. The transmission is the weak link on our generation of trucks. I have 150K on this rebuild and torque converter and the truck is not babied.

 

[cerberusiam]

With reverse only, forwards clutch pack is likely history. Could be some internal stuff but more likely the forwards are burned up.

Any TC that locks harder, tighter, or sooner and transfers power better is going to stress the transmission more that the stock unit. Many little upgrades to make the trans handle a LOT more power are available.

 

[Dynamic]

Does it engage forward if you pull it down into manual Low?

 

[jghflys]

Any TC that locks harder, tighter, or sooner and transfers power better is going to stress the transmission more that the stock unit.

When towing or hauling a heavy load, the stock torque converter clutch can slip while in lockup mode, which causes excessive lockup clutch wear and transmission heat. The converter clutches will wear out and the heat is the primary killer of the transmission. A converter with good lockup and heavy duty bands and clutches are a winning combination for towing. If you do not tow or race you can run just about anything. Proof? My transmission from the factory went 90K miles before rebuilding. My rebuild with Banks billet converter and heavy duty bands and clutches with no other mods, has over 150K miles and going strong.

 

[AEdelheit]

When towing or hauling a heavy load, the stock torque converter clutch can slip while in lockup mode, which causes excessive lockup clutch wear and transmission heat. The converter clutches will wear out and the heat is the primary killer of the transmission. A converter with good lockup and heavy duty bands and clutches are a winning combination for towing. If you do not tow or race you can run just about anything. Proof? My transmission from the factory went 90K miles before rebuilding. My rebuild with Banks billet converter and heavy duty bands and clutches with no other mods, has over 150K miles and going strong.

A tight converter with aggressive lockup puts more shock load into the transmission, less heat yes but much more shock load then then a loose converter. I have done alot of hard high speed off road use with these trucks and have seen many input and output shafts break due to the converter not slipping where loose converters are harder to keep cool but dont break hard parts.

 

[jghflys]

I have done alot of hard high speed off road use with these trucks and have seen many input and output shafts break due to the converter not slipping where loose converters are harder to keep cool but dont break hard parts.

People that tow, do not break hard parts. We wear out friction surfaces. Loose converters while towing will smoke your transmission.

 

[AEdelheit]

People that tow, do not break hard parts. We wear out friction surfaces. Loose converters while towing will smoke your transmission.

Lol, I tow heavy too but pointing out that there are pros and cons to a tight converter.......

 

[cerberusiam]

When towing or hauling a heavy load, the stock torque converter clutch can slip while in lockup mode, which causes excessive lockup clutch wear and transmission heat.

It can, if it slips. However, it only takes a $75 shift kit to eliminate that problem. You will see a lot more problems than heat from a slipping TC clutch will give if you are at the point it is slipping. The stock TC is an HD converter so it is a bit more than that to address the issues.

My stock trans went 105k before needing a rebuild and it wasn't the TC that gave up it was the direct clutch pack. The 2nd rebuild went well over 200k with a LOT of towing, testing, and banging on it with excessive power. The sprag clutch in the main case finally gave up from the loads and power, and there is NO fix for that weak point. Like Adelheit said, shock load them enough and you start breaking parts.

 

[jghflys]

It can, if it slips. However, it only takes a $75 shift kit to eliminate that problem. You will see a lot more problems than heat from a slipping TC clutch will give if you are at the point it is slipping. The stock TC is an HD converter so it is a bit more than that to address the issues.

My stock trans went 105k before needing a rebuild and it wasn't the TC that gave up it was the direct clutch pack. The 2nd rebuild went well over 200k with a LOT of towing, testing, and banging on it with excessive power. The sprag clutch in the main case finally gave up from the loads and power, and there is NO fix for that weak point. Like Adelheit said, shock load them enough and you start breaking parts.

What does this stand for in your signature? "48RE Performance TC"